Low Point Drains not draining

[Summit Pond]

I've searched the forum and found a few hits, I've looked at the Coachmen Leprechaun Owner's Manual and the photocopied information provided with the RV, but none of the guidance seems to work. Here's what I've done:

1. Opened inside water faucet valves (kitchen, bathroom, shower)
2. Opened external shower valves
3. Removed cover to low point drains
4. Pulled "up" both hot and cold water shutoff drain valves
5. Ensured fresh water tank cutoff valve is open
6. Checked to see the external city water/tank fill-winterize valve set to city water

I did not bypass the water heater; my intent is to drain and sanitize.

No water comes out of the low point drains, yet for a few moments there is that "sucking sound" from the faucets that water is flowing out and air is being drawn in. I know I've done this before successfully, so either I'm forgetting a step or something is askew.

Any suggestions/ideas/thoughts?

Thanks.

Ken

[Iwritecode]

It's possible some crud from your water heater got sucked into your lines and is blocking them. That's why it's always a good idea to drain the water heater by removing the anode FIRST, then opening the low point drains.

[JohnSt]

We have a '17 Leprechaun 311FS. Besides the drain by our fresh water tank we have three others under the center seat of the dinette about 1 foot from the water heater towards the front of the RV.

[Summit Pond]

Thank you for both of these suggestions.

Originally Posted by JohnSt

We have a '17 Leprechaun 311FS. Besides the drain by our fresh water tank we have three others under the center seat of the dinette about 1 foot from the water heater towards the front of the RV.

I don't recall pulling any shutoff valves the last time I did this (which was for winterization) other than the two that are inconveniently located behind the partition separating the basement from the fresh water tank.

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

It's possible some crud from your water heater got sucked into your lines and is blocking them. That's why it's always a good idea to drain the water heater by removing the anode FIRST, then opening the low point drains.

Would crud from the water heater also affect the cold water line (without seeming to impact any of the cold faucets)? My water heater does not have an anode, so could there be crud generated some other way?

Thanks.

[flyflotrtim]

Are you able to pressurize the lines with air?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Summit Pond

Thank you for both of these suggestions.



I don't recall pulling any shutoff valves the last time I did this (which was for winterization) other than the two that are inconveniently located behind the partition separating the basement from the fresh water tank.



Would crud from the water heater also affect the cold water line (without seeming to impact any of the cold faucets)? My water heater does not have an anode, so could there be crud generated some other way?

Thanks.

Yes, ALL the crud comes into the cold water line. The cold inlet to the heater is at the bottom of the tank. The hot outlet is at the top. When you drain the plumbing without bypassing the water heater, all that calcium goes into the plumbing. Much does NOT reach the drains
When you refill the system it will clog the faucet aerators and the screen on the toilet.

That is a BAD idea; don't do it.

[Semperfi24]

I can attest to draining the water heater first. A few years ago I decided to drain the system first, then get to the anode later. After draining, I opened the anode and drained what was left, bypassed it and started doing the RV antifreeze. What happened next is all the crud in the lines got picked up with the antifreeze and delivered to the faucets. Every faucet in the RV was completely unusable because of the water heater crud. The antifreeze stopped going into the trailer so I knew I needed to investigate. It was just dripping at the faucets when I had it full blast. Had to clean those aerators out and it was good as new. The antifreeze started flowing again. I knew better than to do it that way, but for some stupid reason I couldnt hold back my compulsion to do it, lol

[Summit Pond]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Yes, ALL the crud comes into the cold water line. The cold inlet to the heater is at the bottom of the tank. The hot outlet is at the top. When you drain the plumbing without bypassing the water heater, all that calcium goes into the plumbing. Much does NOT reach the drains
When you refill the system it will clog the faucet aerators and the screen on the toilet.

That is a BAD idea; don't do it.

Originally Posted by Semperfi24

I can attest to draining the water heater first. A few years ago I decided to drain the system first, then get to the anode later. After draining, I opened the anode and drained what was left, bypassed it and started doing the RV antifreeze. What happened next is all the crud in the lines got picked up with the antifreeze and delivered to the faucets. Every faucet in the RV was completely unusable because of the water heater crud. The antifreeze stopped going into the trailer so I knew I needed to investigate. It was just dripping at the faucets when I had it full blast. Had to clean those aerators out and it was good as new. The antifreeze started flowing again. I knew better than to do it that way, but for some stupid reason I couldnt hold back my compulsion to do it, lol

OK - I will drain the water heater tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed. Thanks

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by Summit Pond

Would crud from the water heater also affect the cold water line (without seeming to impact any of the cold faucets)? My water heater does not have an anode, so could there be crud generated some other way?

Thanks.

Do you not have an anode because you just have a plug or because you have a tankless?

[Summit Pond]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

Do you not have an anode because you just have a plug or because you have a tankless?

It's one of those aluminum clad tanks with only the plug; no anode needed. It's a Dometic WH-6GEA; six gallon LP and electric.

[Odyknuck]

I suspect you will still have sediment in the tank.

[mmartin_tdc]

The Aluminum clad tanks will gather some sediment, but no where near the steel tanks.
I know I get some crud when I rinse my Al water heater tank out.

[Wattsworld]

Remember to release the pressure before removing the anode. I have taken several baths over the years when I forget to do this.

[Summit Pond]

Success!


Thank you to all who have made suggestions.

I did drain the water heater today, but no impact on draining the fresh water tank. So I went back into the rabbit hole where they stuck the valves and took out my phone camera to look around. There was a third valve hidden "around the bend" and behind some other piping; it was not visible from just looking into the access hole; I had to stick my arm and phone camera inside to find it, and then it was just by accident as I was taking photos all around to see what was in that space. Why the access could not have been made more user-friendly is beyond me. However, that third valve was the secret. I must have stumbled on that and missed one of the other ones the last time I did this (about six months ago), so fortune was smiling on me then - without me knowing it.

You can see the limited size of the access in the photo; in addition to it being back in a corner of the hatch to the larger basement compartment and difficult to get to, there's the water tank and framing obstructions inside that make it a challenge to maneuver one's arm/hand to get to the valve.

The second photo shows the valves: the valves labeled "A" were the two I was initially feeling, while the one labeled "B" is the one that is draining the fresh water tank. I've went back in and see if there's a fourth that will drain the hot water line, but but I did not see anything else; it may be hiding there, but I'm not built to contort myself into odd shapes any more.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by mmartin_tdc

The Aluminum clad tanks will gather some sediment, but no where near the steel tanks.
I know I get some crud when I rinse my Al water heater tank out.

Just to pound on this subject a little more, Calcium is an interesting mineral. It's present in a lot of ground (well) water.

Unlike most minerals, the hotter the water temperature is, the LESS soluble Calcium is. If the water is pretty "hard", the Calcium precipitates out as the water is heated. This is the source of much of the granular material that forms in the water heater.

[garywilson]

You will remember next time!

Any time I'm gone long enough to get water away from home, I drain it when I get home.
I didn't one year...had refilled at a state park with good water... a couple of months later my tank was full of larvae...stunk pretty bad.

[SailorSam20500]

For the calcium build-up. It's a good idea to periodically clean it out. This is done by filling the WH with a 50-50 solution of plain white vinegar and water. Let it sit over night then drain the WH. Give the WH a good flush to get all the sediment out.
Doing this may also let your WH work more efficiently when heating with electric. The calcium builds up on the heating element and acts as an insulator.
I try to do my rig every other year as part of winterization.