Over fill of toilet

[Palpjl]

Hooked up to city water. Pressure went very low to almost off from the city. After flushing toilet, valve did not turn off and continued flooding area. Disconnected from city and all OK. Shocker. I assume toilet valve would not have engaged if it had not been flushed with extremely low pressure.

[bubbles]

I thought all RV toilets had mechanical (spring loaded) flush valves and not relying on water pressure in that regard.

[timfromma]

Somethin aint right.

[formerFR]

your valve on the toilet did not close completely, allowing water to continue filling the tank... this is one reason I put a simple shut-off hand valve behind mine, on the water line, just in case...

sometimes these rv toilets with foot pedals need a little more 'coaxing' to fully seat when you've flushed. a quick and firm 'flip' of the pedal sometimes does the trick.

[rockfordroo]

If it's a new rig, you may be still flushing crap out of the system; it may have gotten caught in the valve.

[5picker]

Sounds like the toilet flush lever closed enough to close the blade but not enough to close the water/flush valve. Likely didn't have anything to do with low campground pressure unless there was some debris backfed into the system.

As mentioned, sometimes 'snapping' the valve helps if it is foot operated.

I don't see where you mentioned, what make/model toilet do you have?
Posting all the relevant information may help get better answers.

[Walholler]

Snapping the foot operated valve will lead to another problem, the housing on your foot valve is made of plastic, so snap if you must, but do not be surprised if you crack the valve housing. Been there and done that.

[Renegade837]

Technically, the style of a toilet in a camper is more like a head on a boat. Assuming that is what you have, then there is no tank to overfill, but a bowl to overfill. Because a head doesn't flush with suction like a toilet. It flushes by pumping water in above the waste and allowing it to drop through an opening the bottom. In fact, the head in my camper is the exact same model that was on my boat.

Do yourself a huge favor. Look up the make and model of your particular RV toilet. Then do three very important things. First, install a shutoff on the water line leading to the head (unless yours already has one). Second, whatever the model, buy two of the flush valves, and two of the bowl seal gaskets(why two? because sometimes I screw things up the first time). Then finally, put the seals and valves in a Tupperware container with a roll of Teflon sealing tape and a small tube of Vaseline jelly, and stash that container somewhere in your camper. Also, look up a YouTube video of replacing/repairing these two items and become familiar with the process.

Because when (not if) either of those two things fails, it will be in the middle of the night, or the middle of nowhere. If you can find a marina or camping store, they might have some of these items in stock. But they may not stock your particular model. Plus the Marina will charge you 3X's as much for the same GD part. The valve will sometimes crack, stick open, or stick shut. And the seal will sometimes crack, fail, or even fall out. When the latter happens, it fails to seal not only the bowl for water to stay in, but it allows gasses to escape out. Which is (TRUST ME) no bueno.

PS. if stuck with a bowl seal failure and no replacement; cover the entire head with a garbage bag and tape it closed around the outside of the bowl. Even if you dump the blackwater tank, it's going to stink something awful (don't ask...).

[fella10]

Originally Posted by Palpjl

Hooked up to city water. Pressure went very low to almost off from the city. After flushing toilet, valve did not turn off and continued flooding area. Disconnected from city and all OK. Shocker. I assume toilet valve would not have engaged if it had not been flushed with extremely low pressure.

Hope you find and get the problem fixed, ... what you have experienced is one of the reasons to have a toilet shutoff valve, ... not difficult to do, and allows you a way to shut off water to the toilet if anything like that happens again, ... the link below w/pics, gives more details of how and why, ... see posts 1,9 and 12

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ve-116983.html

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

If it's a new rig, you may be still flushing crap out of the system; it may have gotten caught in the valve.

Any chance, by oversite, you hooked city water to the black flush. That will definitely cause big time water backup, the minute you open the flush valve. But there will be No or low pressure evident at the flush. It will also share black tank content with the roof, if you don't catch it on time.

[B and B]

Been in RV's with flush toilets since 1967. Never once with 3 trailers my parents owned or the 5 I have owned have had a problem with a toilet valve. If "stuff" is stuck in the bowl gate valve the water supply valve could get stuck open and continue to run. Just make sure this doesn't happen and you should be OK.

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by Tom48

Any chance, by oversite, you hooked city water to the black flush. That will definitely cause big time water backup, the minute you open the flush valve. But there will be No or low pressure evident at the flush. It will also share black tank content with the roof, if you don't catch it on time.

^^^^ this!!

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by B and B

Been in RV's with flush toilets since 1967. Never once with 3 trailers my parents owned or the 5 I have owned have had a problem with a toilet valve. If "stuff" is stuck in the bowl gate valve the water supply valve could get stuck open and continue to run. Just make sure this doesn't happen and you should be OK.

X3! Just pay attention, that is all it takes to avoid this problem. No need for extra valves. And if your toilet breaks from snapping the pedal, you were going to need a new one soon anyway