Water Pump Repair

[meaningfulmiles]

Hello Everyone,

I want to preemptively thank you for the help. I have a 2007 Coachmen Freelander C Class. The water pump has always made noise, which I know is normal, but right now when I turn on the water it's taking an extra long amount of time to pressurize, and it sounds different than before. The strange thing about this is, we were just hooked up to water, and haven't used the pump for about a week. I had a filter, and a pressure guard on the hose, and I have a filter inside the coach, right before the fresh water tank. So I don't think I anything get lodged in it, because I wasn't using it at all.

I know water pumps go out, but I looked at the repair manual and it says that I should take the pump apart and clean it out. Is this a reasonable fix?

My second question is about the location of the water pump. Mine happens to be behind the cabinetry, under the fridge. Is there any way to access it without taking the cabinetry apart? It's by the outside wall under the fridge.

Many Thanks
Rodd

[Bama Rambler]

Taking it apart and cleaning it out is a good place to start. It may solve the problem and you won't have to invest in a new pump.

Having said that, if it's a big pain to get to the pump, you may want to just replace it with a new one for peace of mind. You could upgrade it to a better quality model as well.

[Cypressloser]

I think your sediment screen is plugged up and needs to be cleaned, it is located right in line before the pump. If you feel comfortable, disassembling and cleaning the water pump is not very difficult.
I can't tell you how to access the water pump but look for screws or snaps holding an access panel in place.

[meaningfulmiles]

When you say the access panel, are you talking from the outside? I have a panel when I change it from pump/city pressure, to tank fill, and winterize. That seems close to where the pump would be. I would just have to take it off and check, and then reseal everything when I finished.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by meaningfulmiles

When you say the access panel, are you talking from the outside? I have a panel when I change it from pump/city pressure, to tank fill, and winterize. That seems close to where the pump would be. I would just have to take it off and check, and then reseal everything when I finished.

I wouldn't remove anything from the extreme outside that would have to be resealed. Does that panel have an edge you can see behind? Maybe there's an access behind that edge like there is on my 5th wheel water control panel. Can you post a pic?

[meaningfulmiles]

This is the inside panel under the fridge

[meaningfulmiles]

This is the outside panel

[meaningfulmiles]

So what I'm seeing from these pictures is I can only access the water pump by going through the inside, unless I want to take the furnace out, from the outside, which I don't think is a good idea. We bought this rig used, and the solar charge controller was installed right next to the water pump, which I've been told wasn't a good idea to have it so far from the batteries. Well, it's looking like it wasn't a good place to put it to be able to work on the water pump either. But now you can see what I'm working with.
Thanks again for all the help

[Mr. Dan]

Oh, me! Yes... you've got an eyeball on it! Mine is much easier but still not easy. I took mine out ~4 times. The unit is in the shop having several extended service contract items fixed including a new water pump. I removed the pump from Uncle Gene's SOB unit and had the same confined space as you have. All the creaking joints and arthritis pains of a 70 y.o. guy caused me fits but I finally got 'er dun. Good luck to you!

[Cypressloser]

It's not the easiest to work on but it could be worse
You want to pull the screws holding the pump down first using a #2 Robertson and then remove the water hose on the inlet and outlet side, do not use tools. Last but not least pull the pump forward until you can disconnect the wires. Before you start working turn off the pump, open the taps, esp. the outside shower since it is usually the lowest, and drain as much water as possible, have a towel handy to clean up spills when you remove the hoses from the pump.
If you do run into any problems post questions accompanied by pictures.

[meaningfulmiles]

That sounds like a good plan. I'll see what I can do. I'm brand new to this RV world, and it has been exciting, and frustrating. But I'm always up for a challenge, and learning something new. I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I'll keep you posted.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by meaningfulmiles

That sounds like a good plan. I'll see what I can do. I'm brand new to this RV world, and it has been exciting, and frustrating. But I'm always up for a challenge, and learning something new. I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I'll keep you posted.

Mine is in the same location, what will help you is to cut the ducts and then just put a sleeve in and tape them back together, it will save you a whole bunch of curse words. There is no other way to access it, there just is no room. Also before you pull it run a tank of water through it to see if it clears, if it is the strainer, no other way but to cut them ducts.

[jacksharp1959]

Had to remove the outside panel where the valve controls are ans then the inside panel from the big garage storage area under the bed. My issue is that while my tanks have heaters, the water pump is located in the left rear of the coach and in an unheated space under the shower. This means, winter time camping in extreme temps (We're up in the mountains alot) can quickly turn into a water disaster. If I an plugged into shore power, I can put a drop light in there to keep it warm enough to pump. I'll probably rig a heater blanket on it and deal with the resulting power suckage and draining. Those things use a lot pf power. Open to any ideas from other cold weather rv-ers