2018 30DS CHF quick questions - clarification

[GABulldawg]

Hello all! I have done a lot of research on this topic, read a ton of posts here and elsewhere, but still, require a little clarification. (Read: Please don't ask me to use the search feature.)

Prior to taking delivery of the new unit, I had sumo springs installed on all four corners. This definitely helped with body roll.

I have accomplished the front CHF, other than a clunking noise I get when going over a low curb (for example) I have had no issues. Not sure if I see marked improvement, but don't see enough negatives to reverse it.

On my last trip, we still got a lot of push / pull from passing semis. I detest that, and I am hoping the chf on the rear will help further eliminate that effect. Honestly, it seemed worse than prior to doing the chf on the front. Makes me wonder if I should just reverse that?

Feel free to also comment your thoughts on that question.

Anyway, back to the original purpose of the post. Last time I was under the coach to do the rear chf, with a buddy who is also a heavy diesel mechanic, we noticed that the rear is a two bolt set up with what I guess is the "z-bracket" I have seen referred to. One bolt is able to be removed, the other appears to be affixed to the bracket. Is that indeed the case?

If so, it doesn't appear it can be flipped on the same side and line up correctly. So the question is, is the z-bracket and bolt assembly meant to be flipped, but also swapped sides? In other words, the driver's side goes to passenger, and passenger to driver, while also flipping, or inverting?

Do I have this right? I have seen referenced "reversing" the z-bracket, I am assuming the reversing might mean swapping sides.

Thanks for any clarification and helping get me on the right track. My goal would be to knock this out this afternoon.

[GABulldawg]

All of these folks who have performed the CHF and not a single response? Is it the way I worded the post? 1 week and 100 views and not a reply? Really looking to this forum for assistance.

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by GABulldawg

All of these folks who have performed the CHF and not a single response? Is it the way I worded the post? 1 week and 100 views and not a reply? Really looking to this forum for assistance.

I just got back from one last trip before winterizing.

I had my CHF done by a local Truck tire shop. These are my before pictures of the Z-Bracket. As you can see the Z-Bracket can be flipped on the same side. I do not have after Pics.




I installed a Blue Ox True Center steering stabilizer to help with wind and passing semis. I went with the True Center because it can be recentered with a push of button. I had it installed in April 2017, a week after I took delivery.

It has worked well in the last 6,500 miles. I have driven 65 mph on a rural two lane with semis passing in the opposite direction. My windshield wipers rattled from the passing wind but the FR3 did not sway.

I had the CHF done in June 2017 and can say it made a difference. It can always be undone if you don't like it.

[Dcbenny]

I know you don’t want to do search but if you go to irv forum there is a thread there that will answer any question you have it will take about a week to read it in entirety. On the push I had same issue the best thing I did was get a front wheel alignment from a heavy duty truck repair after that I could drive one handed and 65 MPH with out an issue from passing trucks. The wheel alignment was the most positive thing I did on my previous class A MH.

[HONDAMAN174]

I did the chf on a friends unit along with sumo springs. The z brackets will need to be taken off and flipped around-they will stay on the same side.

[bootsthecat]

I guess I will sound like a dummy---what is a CHF?

[wnewman53]

Bootsthecat

Not a dumb question I did not know either until I read another thread. abbreviation for Cheap Handling Fix for FR3. I haven't done it to my '17 32DS I really don't have any issues with handling so far, only have 3000 miles so not sure if down the road it might make a difference. I am putting sumo springs on front and rear along with sway bars just for my peace of mind.

[vjstangelo]

On my 32' Winnebago MH did the following on this order. Rear CHF, front Saf T Steer, Front end alignment. That's it, and the rig is very stable. No need IMHO to do the front CHF.

[Kylehove]

Originally Posted by GABulldawg

Hello all! I have done a lot of research on this topic, read a ton of posts here and elsewhere, but still, require a little clarification. (Read: Please don't ask me to use the search feature.)



Prior to taking delivery of the new unit, I had sumo springs installed on all four corners. This definitely helped with body roll.



I have accomplished the front CHF, other than a clunking noise I get when going over a low curb (for example) I have had no issues. Not sure if I see marked improvement, but don't see enough negatives to reverse it.



On my last trip, we still got a lot of push / pull from passing semis. I detest that, and I am hoping the chf on the rear will help further eliminate that effect. Honestly, it seemed worse than prior to doing the chf on the front. Makes me wonder if I should just reverse that?



Feel free to also comment your thoughts on that question.



Anyway, back to the original purpose of the post. Last time I was under the coach to do the rear chf, with a buddy who is also a heavy diesel mechanic, we noticed that the rear is a two bolt set up with what I guess is the "z-bracket" I have seen referred to. One bolt is able to be removed, the other appears to be affixed to the bracket. Is that indeed the case?



If so, it doesn't appear it can be flipped on the same side and line up correctly. So the question is, is the z-bracket and bolt assembly meant to be flipped, but also swapped sides? In other words, the driver's side goes to passenger, and passenger to driver, while also flipping, or inverting?



Do I have this right? I have seen referenced "reversing" the z-bracket, I am assuming the reversing might mean swapping sides.



Thanks for any clarification and helping get me on the right track. My goal would be to knock this out this afternoon.

Following to hear if you get this figured out.

We changed our shocks, added a traction bar in the rear, added rear stabilizer, and added steering control. It helped immensely with the semi issue but I think the steering control was the largest improvement. We did not add coil springs nor the CHF. Basically we noticed a big improvement but still not a 100% fix.

We were told not to do the CHF because it stresses the frame but I am at the point of trying that as well.

Shame on FR for not doing these improvements up front. Had I known how dangerous it drove off the showroom floor, I would of made those upgrades upfront instead of a few whit knuckle drives that were eye openers.

[wp1130_2000]

I did the CHF on mine and I'm pretty happy with how it rides. I still would like to get the alignment done and a steering stabilizer at some point.

[Pointy End Up]

2018 FR3 30DS. As some others have reported the front CHF went smoothly, the rear, not so much. The z brackets won't move, won't rotate, won't come out. Finally removed top brackets as well so I could take them to the bench. All four, top and bottom, z brackets are fused some how to the link bushings. I've pounded and twisted and finally used a gear puller. No joy. Since the top won't budge either, I can't even get them in position ignoring the lower z bracket. I feel if I pull any harder with the gear puller I'm just going to rip the rubber. I'm worried about destroying the links. Unless someone has an idea that works, guess I'll re-install them. Maybe buy new links if I try another go at it.

[HONDAMAN174]

Originally Posted by Pointy End Up

2018 FR3 30DS. As some others have reported the front CHF went smoothly, the rear, not so much. The z brackets won't move, won't rotate, won't come out. Finally removed top brackets as well so I could take them to the bench. All four, top and bottom, z brackets are fused some how to the link bushings. I've pounded and twisted and finally used a gear puller. No joy. Since the top won't budge either, I can't even get them in position ignoring the lower z bracket. I feel if I pull any harder with the gear puller I'm just going to rip the rubber. I'm worried about destroying the links. Unless someone has an idea that works, guess I'll re-install them. Maybe buy new links if I try another go at it.

I think I used a 2x4 as a base and tapped the bracket off with something

[Hogq]

Originally Posted by GABulldawg

Hello all! I have done a lot of research on this topic, read a ton of posts here and elsewhere, but still, require a little clarification. (Read: Please don't ask me to use the search feature.)



Prior to taking delivery of the new unit, I had sumo springs installed on all four corners. This definitely helped with body roll.



I have accomplished the front CHF, other than a clunking noise I get when going over a low curb (for example) I have had no issues. Not sure if I see marked improvement, but don't see enough negatives to reverse it.



On my last trip, we still got a lot of push / pull from passing semis. I detest that, and I am hoping the chf on the rear will help further eliminate that effect. Honestly, it seemed worse than prior to doing the chf on the front. Makes me wonder if I should just reverse that?



Feel free to also comment your thoughts on that question.



Anyway, back to the original purpose of the post. Last time I was under the coach to do the rear chf, with a buddy who is also a heavy diesel mechanic, we noticed that the rear is a two bolt set up with what I guess is the "z-bracket" I have seen referred to. One bolt is able to be removed, the other appears to be affixed to the bracket. Is that indeed the case?



If so, it doesn't appear it can be flipped on the same side and line up correctly. So the question is, is the z-bracket and bolt assembly meant to be flipped, but also swapped sides? In other words, the driver's side goes to passenger, and passenger to driver, while also flipping, or inverting?



Do I have this right? I have seen referenced "reversing" the z-bracket, I am assuming the reversing might mean swapping sides.



Thanks for any clarification and helping get me on the right track. My goal would be to knock this out this afternoon.

I have done the CHF, front and rear on my 2015 FR3 (2014 f53 chassis). Like others I have also added a blue-ox track bar to the rear, and the blue-ox tru-center stabilizer. Also I replaced the shocks with Koni on all four corners. The coach drives well, and I can control it with one hand if I choose, without “white knuckling”. Normally I don’t do that because i am concerned about “what if” blowouts and road debris, and other drivers.
This is probably a controversial statement, but even with all of the above, occasionally I get buffeting when a truck passes, not uncontrollable, but it happens. I believe it is simple physics that causes it and I’m not sure it can ever be completely eliminated. I watch semi trucks that are much heavier, and they often have the same or greater effect, sometimes swaying into the other lane (my coach never experiences anything that severe).
If I were to rate all that I have done in terms of effect, it ranks like this:
1. CHF
2. Shocks
3. Steering Stabilizer
4. ZTrack
But more important than the above mods, is
1. Weighing the coach to obtain front/rear/overall weight
2. Adjusting tire cold air pressure for steer and rear duals to the actual weight using the tire manufacturer pressure chart
3. Using a tire pressure monitoring system
I also give a strong recommendation to Centramatic dynamic balancers, but that isn’t strictly related to the handling topic.

[BatesMotel2]

I copied and pasted my previous post on CHF


We have a 2018 FR3 with a F53 Chassis and have logged over 10K miles the first year and we did the following when we first got it and are very happy with the way it handles:

1. Moved front sway bar to firm setting (CHF)
2. Installed Road Master Steering stabilizer.
3. Moved rear sway bar to firm setting (CHF)


So before you dump a ton of cash on new bags, shocks, sway bars etc... I would suggest you make these mods and take it for a drive on the interstate and reassess. Good luck brother