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Old 07-01-2020, 03:02 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
the newer units are sealed and there is no "Taped Port" for recharging the units... the older AC units had the ports

On hermetically sealed systems(speaking residential/light commercial) units have hardly ever had any service ports. The only refrigerators I ever worked on with service ports(read very old)were GE and I don't recall ever working on a window a/c unit with factory service ports. Now Understand I only worked on a hand full of RV units.

and the part of being expensive and hard to get a "license". The refrigerant recovery certification wasn't/isn't expensive or hard to get. It just took time and energy to get. I have two certifications for recovery... no big deal. The Montreal Protocol encompasses a bunch of stuff. Most is good. The only part I don't agree with is the TAX! I am not a tree hugger...

all my opinions of course
Thanks for the response...
I'm just going off what the RV repair shop is telling me and what they told me the last couple times the AC failed... I did do some google searches and watched a couple Youtube videos on the subject... I'm not an RV AC repair guy, but I understand they are a little different than the type of units in cars and in homes... both my car and my house have places to add or recharge the Freon or whatever is in there...
I'm told my RV doesn't have that option. I guess I can't speak to what can be done since all three of the new AC units have been installed by the manufacture or the dealer/repair shop...
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Old 07-01-2020, 09:07 PM   #22
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Thanks for the response...

I'm just going off what the RV repair shop is telling me and what they told me the last couple times the AC failed... I did do some google searches and watched a couple Youtube videos on the subject... I'm not an RV AC repair guy, but I understand they are a little different than the type of units in cars and in homes... both my car and my house have places to add or recharge the Freon or whatever is in there...

I'm told my RV doesn't have that option. I guess I can't speak to what can be done since all three of the new AC units have been installed by the manufacture or the dealer/repair shop...


Just for reverence. The key is hermetically sealed units. Yes...package a/c units are hermetically sealed, but that is an exception. Split system (home a/c) the installer runs the line set and does the final service. Automotive....mmmm. Rubber in a/c system. Built to leak.
The window units are basically an RV unit....no service ports(hermetically sealed).

If you were here I would add ports, hunt for leak and maybe be able to repair.

Got a local college? If not still in warranty I bet they have an hvac department. Ask the teacher who they recommend to service it. Good luck Sir/Ma’am.
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Old 07-02-2020, 07:06 AM   #23
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A/C not shutting off

I have a similar issue but the A/C does not cut off. Seems to cool Ok, but does not cut off. If I have the temperature set at 72 or 74 the unit cools down but does not cut off. Use to cut off. Noticed it this weekend more, while staying in the unit. I know it use to cut off when it got cool. Ideas for that issue.
it is the thermostat gauge, or what. How do i check that out as well. Same type of A/C as in this discussion.
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Old 07-06-2020, 01:09 PM   #24
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I have a similar issue but the A/C does not cut off. Seems to cool Ok, but does not cut off. If I have the temperature set at 72 or 74 the unit cools down but does not cut off. Use to cut off. Noticed it this weekend more, while staying in the unit. I know it use to cut off when it got cool. Ideas for that issue.
it is the thermostat gauge, or what. How do i check that out as well. Same type of A/C as in this discussion.

do you mean it continues to run after it reaches set point? If you set it for 73 and the fan is in auto mode both compressor and fan should shut off when it reaches that temp. Is compressor going off fan continuing to run? If so fan is set to run continuous. You should hear the compressor cycle off when the set temp. is reached.
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Old 07-06-2020, 02:41 PM   #25
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a/c problem

sevral things come to mind,as the outdoor temp dropped did the coach start to cool off and maintain temp,you said that when first installed it did work properly-at similar outside air temps?you also said that the unit stays plugged in at home but your coil looks clean,do not go by looks,very fine dirt will find its way to imbed in the outside coil,spray the coil with something like dawn and wash it out with a hose,one last thing is yes the system is sealed if all testing still points to a low charge you can use a line tap to verify that,bad part is two fold you have to find and repair leak and solder in a permant fitting and recharge,finding someone to do this would be the prolem,an a/c is a a/c no real majic accept to find the right person

retired from com.&ind hvac 40 years

good luck
need more info pm me
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Old 08-17-2020, 11:40 AM   #26
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Just a quick update...

We used the motorhome over the weekend in Bend Oregon... lows for the weekend were in the mid 50's and the high temps were 100. We were at a nice RV resort and the power was good.

The AC could not keep up.

We had all windows covered and had the Fantastic fans in the bathroom and the bedroom on low, pulling out the hot air. The thermostat was set to 74 degrees.
Late in the evening we did get the temps down because the outside air temps were falling and by 10:30 the AC would shutoff because we reached the 74 deg setting on the thermostat.

During the day, the inside temp was 88 degrees with the AC constantly running. Again, the air coming out of the vents was cool... but not cold.

When new, the AC would deliver cold air. There is no way the air coming out of this AC could be described as cold.... ever....

The dashboard air is colder and does a better job than the roof air.

What is funny though... before I bought this motorhome, I had an older 28 foot Nomad travel trailer.... the AC on that thing would blast you out of there. It was a ductless unit that just dumped air right out of the unit... we would use that trailer on our summer trips to Lake Shasta in Redding California with temps over 100 for days.... it never failed.

This week I'll climb back up on the roof and see if the "coils" are dirty... though I doubt they will be, as they were fine last month... but I think the best idea for me is to not use the motorhome when it's above 80....
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Old 08-17-2020, 12:04 PM   #27
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@ twojump36: I've been there and felt the frustration. I bought a new '15 FR Coachmen TT. Within four (4) months the Dometic A/C unit failed. I contacted the selling dealer and got the "Oh Dometic had a bad run of A/C units and your unit is covered under warranty". They could not get to it for a couple of months and they are 95 miles away so they arranged for me to use a local Dometic approved RV repair guy to change mine out. Unit #2. The 2nd. unit worked so much better than the factory original unit. Well, for at least a year then it went bottoms up. This unit had a two (2) year warranty from date of installation so another new unit installed. Unit #3. Unit #3 worked very good and is still working. Later I added a 2nd. unit over the front bedroom as it gets hot here in SW GA. Unit #4 on this TT. That unit lasted less than six (6) months and started blowing warm air. Unit was under factory two (2) year warranty. The local RV repair guy was very helpful to get Dometic to replace that unit and they paid him for labor to install new unit. Unit #5 on this TT. I leave the main unit on set at 85* all summer so the inside doesn't get too hot or the humidity doesn't get to high. I run the front unit at least once a month for a day or two and so far both units are doing their job well. OH-the new unit I added to the front: The RV guy let me keep it so I called in a favor from a friend of mine who has an auto repair shop. We added a two (2) service ports, one HI pressure and one LOW pressure. He then drew a vacuum on the unit and re-charged it. That sucker blew icicles out, almost. I sold that unit with full disclosure about it for $200, , ,
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Old 08-17-2020, 12:07 PM   #28
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When if you climb up there. Get an assistant/spotter/911 caller to operate the A/C for you assuming you have 120V power. The interior of the RV needs to be 85 or less.

1st feel the air discharging from the A/C condenser(infrared thermo would be nice) and it should be about 20 deg warmer than ambient(as memory tells me). No thermo? like hairdryer on warm.. not hot. Hot air signals a good chance of blockage/dirty.

2nd if air on condenser feels ok remove cover and feel the copper lines. The discharge line(compressor to condenser) will be hot. The liquid line(condenser outlet to Drier/metering device/evaprator housing) should be warm(thing warm cup of coffee..not too hot to touch). The suction line(evap to compressor) should be cool/cold and sweating normally, but not frozen. I always say like a glass of cold water...maybe with a bit of ice in there.

Any variances could signify an issue. A couple to note...
Unit on a short period of time... maybe 30 mins or longer
Malfunctioning unit.. dirty, state of charge, failing component

These things are basically window unit A/Cs with a roof mount

I will try to help if I can
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Old 08-17-2020, 03:40 PM   #29
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Thanks....

I'll give it a shot... but I am almost certain I'll be replacing it very soon... it is worth inspecting either way...

Stay Tuned...lol
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