CHF Guide

[Technorick]

Barnes
I installed my safe t plus this week end. Had to use a breaker bar to get those 1/1/8 inch nuts off the lead spring brackets. Pulled to left on first time out and took two retry adjustments in the Home Depot parking lot off the highway to get it running str8t. I'm very pleased with the outcome as I. Did the CHF at the same time.

I'm concerned that the mounting bracket for this install mounts underneath the tie rod not above as in the training vid on the safe t plus web site. And the bracket appears to angle down a Slight angle. When I first installed it I hung the stabilizer bolt from top to bottom leaving the extra thread hanging below. The inch 1/2 of thread appeared to be the lowest point on the rig so I turner the bolt over head down and extra thread pointing up. ( performed after theses pics).

My last question has to do with the extra two bolts provided "to replace the ford stopping bolts" instructions say these bolts must replace the factory bolts on Ford. Did you use them? As far as I can tell they are supposed to reduce the turning radius ie: increase the stop length. Instructions say: if there is more than six inches travel ( tie rod) in either direction install bolts. I suppose to do this I would place a white mark on the tie rod and another mark on the axle frame aligned with it. And turn the wheel full left and then right measuring the distance.



.


2014 FR330 DS

[b1barnes]

Technorick,

My measurement, the bolts were not required to extend the stops for this application. Mainly they are to stop from over extending the cylinder. The bracket kits fits several different applications so the bolts are included.

For the tie rod twist thus the cylinder hanging down, I set the tie rod in the middle of its travel of the ball joints before tightening the U-bolts. There is a bit of the SafeT unit that is a touch lower, but for not enough to worry about for me. When tightening the large bolts, it pulled the tie rod back to the middle of the travel.

[wayne and sherry]

I don't know, JeNNY is my 3rd RV, 2nd class A, and l think she drove just fine. We had winds at our backs, side, head on, heavy rain, sleet, hail, snow, thunder and lighting, thick heavy clouds, and fog and I feel she drove great towing our Jeep on a trailer. It drove like a class A. But I do not get above 65mph, mostly 99% of the time I'm at 62/63mph.


JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK

[b1barnes]

Wayne and Sherry, why do you trailer your Jeep instead of pulling flat? Just curious.

[Relore]

Just curious. Does the 2016 30 DS still need the CHF fix. What exactly does it help out with? I do notice on our 2016 model that when I drive down the road, I have to hold the steering centered at about 1 to 2 o'clock to drive straight but I figured this is an alignment issue. My rig does rock back and forth in the wind and if I try to reach the stereo I tend to drift. Does doing the CHF fix any of these or should I just get the Blue Ox True Center?

I haven't had a Class A before only Class C's and it feels a lot bigger than a class C but I am not sure if that is because you are up a lot higher or there is an actual problem with the rig.

Thanks

[leisurelarry]

Definitely do the CHF it will firm up your ride and reduce some of your sway. It's the only free suspension fix so why not take advantage of it. Some after market brand of "return to center" steering would also be recommended. Get the alignment done first though. I use the Roadmaster reflex steering stabilizer and find it to be a huge improvement on the road.


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[leisurelarry]

The alignment (total toe reading) was so far off I destroyed the front set of tires with less then 10k on them. I replaced the Goodyears with Michelin XZE's on the front. Also had the Ford truck service center straighten out my steering wheel. It was off center about 20 degrees.


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[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by Relore

Just curious. Does the 2016 30 DS still need the CHF fix. What exactly does it help out with? I do notice on our 2016 model that when I drive down the road, I have to hold the steering centered at about 1 to 2 o'clock to drive straight but I figured this is an alignment issue. My rig does rock back and forth in the wind and if I try to reach the stereo I tend to drift. Does doing the CHF fix any of these or should I just get the Blue Ox True Center?
...
Thanks

Does your unit need anything fixed? The CHF will REDUCE roll. A rear panhard bar will REDUCE tail wag. A stabilizer like true center will REDUCE drift (Yaw). All these relatively inexpensive solutions will have a cumulative effect on the handling of your box. It is the lack of weight and sq area of the box that cause the unit to be susceptible to the force of air movement. Is that steering wheel correction constant or does it change with road and wind conditions?
So, if you are white knuckling it, can't stay in your lane, feel like you were beat up when you finally arrive at your destination, then you might try some or all of the solutions mentioned. If you have not driven the box enough to answer those question then its a good time to do nothing. BTW, I have heard that a set of Koni's help a great deal but have not done that (yet). Mostly because my box now drives like a van.

[wayne and sherry]

b1 the Jeep (OlllllllO) rides on a trailer because though it dose drive on the road, its primary use is for off road use. When we go places that we do not plan to do much off roading then l flat tow a 2013 Jeep (OlllllllO) Wrangler JK.



JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK

[Bobb36]

we did the CHF tonight, headed for Eldora Thursday for the DREAM weekend I will let you know what I think when I get back. Had a little trouble with the left rear getting the bolts back in the holes but finally used the rear levelers to find the sweet spot.

[wayne and sherry]

After our 1st 4,000 mile trip with the F53 is stock positions, l will be doing the CHF before July 1st to try on that trip.


JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK
USS Seattle (AOE-3) 84-88 Wayne
US Army 06-15 Sherry

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by wayne and sherry

After our 1st 4,000 mile trip with the F53 is stock positions, l will be doing the CHF before July 1st to try on that trip.

Yep - But don't expect miracles.

[wayne and sherry]

I have a class A truckers DL with over 3/4 of a million miles under my belt having drove for just under 4yrs. I've rocked a big truck all over this country and Canada eh.. I've been to some of the best truck driving schools in the country, I've put full size 18 wheelers into full skids on the skid pads and recovered from jack knife situations, I've completed hands on driving courses of sharp curves, and zig zagging at speeds of 35mph being the only driver not to knock over a cone in the class😳 luck and jimmy john freaky fast reflexes I guess, and this is my 3rd motorhome, 1st brand new one and 2nd class A with JeNNY being the biggest. I'm here to tell ya, and it don't matter if the winds hitting you on the side, or if a 18 wheelers is passing JeNNY on her left or even if it's a F250 pick up truck passing JeNNY, this FR3 is a total hand full to drive. My speeds were kept at 63mph and that even felt as though l was pushing JeNNY to her safe limits. The skill set required to drive the F53 in MHOP is much greater than that of a truckers driving skill set needed to rock a big truck. Now, when the winds were calm and the road smooth and no other vehicles were passing me JeNNY drove nice, and so that was about 1% of the drive, and those sound like laboratory conditions. I'm noting for the record here based on all my professional driving experience, based on safety awards given to me by not only the truckers safety programs but also from the trucking company l drove for safety department and company's insurance provider, JeNNYs the biggest hand full of anything I've ever driven. I strongly think I'm saying something here, I've drove more things in my life than l feel most have including huge Navy ships and smaller LCVP's. With only 2 more driving hours left in our trip till we get home, l just had to get that out. What say you?


JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK
USS Seattle (AOE-3) 84-88 Wayne
US Army 06-15 Sherry

[Duckogram]

Thats a lot of driving experience. So you know what is going on but fixing it is a whole different story. To tame your kite, you will most likely need, based on your story, more than just the CHF. Layer your fixes and you will see marked improvement with each step.

BTW, what does that rock crawling, mud slinging entertainment vehicle and trailer weigh?
I'm thinking you know where this story is going...

[wayne and sherry]

I'm not using the Jeep n trailer into the driving observations because this has been my same set up thru all 3 motorhomes and even before I started with motorhomes when I used to tow with my pick up and set up a tent. But no one would know that but me, being a rock junkie this is our 7th Moab trip and so with my other 2 motorhomes and JeNNY l make my comparison. Then also there is all the other postings from FR3 owners who tow and don't talking the same stress of road manors here. This vehicle drives borderline unsafe off the assembly line and that wrong. I'm going to take steps in improving road safety, I owe that to my family and the family who just pasted me on my left, Forest River l will ask to share in that responsibility.


JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK
USS Seattle (AOE-3) 84-88 Wayne
US Army 06-15 Sherry

[Nanab]

I did the CHF on the front first and noticed a big difference just driving out of our neighborhood. It didn't roll nearly as much and felt more stable. I then did the CHF on the rear and that tightened the whole thing up. I also took it to our local Ford dealer and got an alignment. That took care of the wandering I had been fighting on the highway.

All in all, I noticed a big difference. No more tail wag, no more wandering, much more stable in turns. I just got back from a 2000 mile trip through Texas and drove between 60 & 70 MPH. Cross winds were a bear, so I would just slow down to where I felt comfortable. I don't think anything can fix that since I am pushing a big giant box down the highway.

I am going to install Koni's to see if that helps the ride any. The only other thing I might try is a steering stabilizer. (but for now, I don't think i need it)

PapaB

[wayne and sherry]

Good input. I'm adjust my sway bars this weekend.


JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK
USS Seattle (AOE-3) 84-88 Wayne
US Army 06-15 Sherry

[b1barnes]

No experience driving things that bend in the middle, but 10 years driving over the road coaches in the mid-1970's and 80's that varied from 2 to 20 years old and averaged 35k pounds. The FR3 drives about the same. Kind of like an old FM 4106

Big winds cause me some concern as the FR is top heavy. Knowing its a no no I travel with water tank pretty full to add weight down lower and this helps with trucks sucking me in.

Have done the CHP and added the Safe-T- stabilizer.

Just don't find the drive all that bad.

[wayne and sherry]

Ok the front sway bar CHF is done! Looking at the holes used by factory, they look as though there's a lot of stress going on. Lots of metal shavings from that hole dealing with a Constance fight with sway.

Now on to the rear sway bar!!


JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK
USS Seattle (AOE-3) 84-88 Wayne
US Army 06-15 Sherry

[wayne and sherry]

Ok I've got the rear CHF done, but also discovered a issue... Look at this eh:

That's the rear sway bar mount on the drivers side to the axle... It's missing.😳. I have a call into the great folks at Forest River and they are working on getting me a new clamp kit as I type here!!
The passengers side clamp is there but the top 15mm bolt was loose. I tightened it down good and snug!!


JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
2000 Jeep TJ Moab Rock Crawler
2013 Jeep JK
USS Seattle (AOE-3) 84-88 Wayne
US Army 06-15 Sherry