Entry Lock Issue

[Canuck2584]

On my 2014 FR3 the entry door will not close without pulling back on the handle as I shut the door. The retracting part of the lock mechanism is not hitting the striker plate properly, it's obviously protruding out too far and not hitting the striker plate with the sloped portion. This started doing this today, been out on the road for over a month. Anyone else run into this issue? I'm concerned this might be the beginning of an entry door lock mechanism failure (Trimark), not looking forward to being locked inside the unit!

[bubbles]

Your FR3 might be a different animal but typical main entrance door latches are identical and are adjustable using a Philips screw driver. Maybe the FR3 went a different way. Mine occasionally has to be adjusted and sometimes will bind a little if leveling torqued the frame somewhat.

[Canuck2584]

Thanks for the info Bubbles, so I try the door this morning and all is good. The motorhome has not moved for a couple of weeks at our vacation location in Palm Springs. The only change from yesterday afternoon is the temperature, hitting over 100 degrees yesterday afternoon. Hard to believe this could be the culprit though??

[bubbles]

Sometimes a little white lithium grease or in a pinch WD40 does wonders. Happy camping. I'm done.

[Bobb36]

I have to keep retracting part of the lock mechanism lubed real good because of this reason and I cut and riveted a kick plate to the inside bottom of the door because the wind had bent the door at the bottom hinge.

[Canuck2584]

As mentioned above, the door closed without pulling back on the handle first few times I tried in the morning, wrote the update that all was well, then shortly after it's jamming again. Called Trimark, no screws available to adjust.Tried a bit of WD40, no luck. Maybe it is the heat causing metal expansion or warping.
Bobb36: do you lubricate the locking mechanism by taking off the inside faceplate or simply apply at the retracting bolt? WD40?
On a good note, confirmed with Trimark that I have the version of the entry lock that was redesigned due to many cases of mechanism failure. They were able to confirm via the serial numbers on the keys.
Cheers

[Bobb36]

simply apply at the retracting bolt then work in

[wayne and sherry]

I use tri lube for keeping things moving nicely. It's a great product. I've been using this stuff for over 20 yrs. The locks all around JeNNY were starving for some lubricant and after giving ever lock on the unit some tri lube they all work very nice now.


JeNNY (FR3/30DS)

[wayne and sherry]

JeNNY (FR3/30DS)

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Canuck2584

Thanks for the info Bubbles, so I try the door this morning and all is good. The motorhome has not moved for a couple of weeks at our vacation location in Palm Springs. The only change from yesterday afternoon is the temperature, hitting over 100 degrees yesterday afternoon. Hard to believe this could be the culprit though??

Metal will swell at 100 degrees, if there is a next time and you have a temperature gun get a reading of the surface temp of the area around the lock.

[Canuck2584]

Thanks for the feedback folks, heading back north in a week, no more 100 degree temps, Hopefully that's all it is.

[Canuck2584]

Quick update, back in 60-70 degree temperatures and the bolt is mostly cooperating. "Mostly" I say as it jammed a couple of times even in these cooler temperatures. Of course it was fine when I dropped it off at the Dealer today for some final warranty work.

[Paul M]

First thing I do is apply grease. Good old fashioned grease. WD 40 may work in a pinch but eventually will not last. Of course grease wont last forever either, but I seem to geat at least a season out of it. Apply on the strike plate and the sliding bolt / latch mech.

[Ford Idaho]

https://www.google.com/#q=lock+graphite

Graphite will not trap and hold dust, dirt or road grim.

If you can pull the lock out give it a good cleaning with a brush or what you can get to fit in tight places and then apply some graphite to the moving parts.