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Old 07-29-2020, 03:52 PM   #1
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FR3 32DS Drivers Area Insulation/Temperature

Hi, I have a 2019 FR3 32DS and have been miserable for the past 2 years driving the thing in any weather other than basically perfect outside temperature. I finally figured out the issue. The front nose cap above the front window has absolutely NO insulation. It is just the fiberglass exterior nose cap and then the wood cubbies or whatever you want to call them where the bunk folds up. Is everyone else's like this or did they miss a step at the factory on mine? Ours is so miserable to drive in the summer and even in the winter. In the summer, with the generator running and both 15k ac units going at full blast, the temp up front is still in the high 80's to 90's despite the coach being in the low 70's or even below. The chassis ac blows cold but you know how that goes. Just wondering if anyone else has this issue or ours is just a mistake?
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Old 07-29-2020, 05:33 PM   #2
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I also have a 2019 32DS and ours came without freon in the chassis AC. Once we got the Freon replaced we haven't had a problem. We can easily travel even without the main ACs on and just the dash AC and the driver and passenger are comfortable in the summer. I am guessing they missed a step in the construction of yours... Don't know if that helps.
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:18 PM   #3
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Thanks! I can actually look where the motor arms are for the bunk (through the rubber seals) and see the fiberglass front cap. Can you see yours?
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Old 07-29-2020, 07:18 PM   #4
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I have a 33DS 2019 and while miserable while driving, (AC in the cabin)
I know there is no insulation, its the bunk then end cap, but if you can see the end cap from inside, I say you might have a missed step at the factory.


Side note I am currently investigate how to keep cool in the summer while driving. decided to spend a few on a Sirocco II Fan w/ 12V /24V DC. Gimbal. Hard wire it in on or near the dash.
Also looking to get clear Ceramic Window Tint fr the windshield. It works wonders to keep the heat out and UV protect My issue now is deal with my State law. while it is clear, not everyone will install it. You may have less of a problem if your state does not care.
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Old 07-29-2020, 10:08 PM   #5
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I also have a 2019 FR3 32DS and have had the same experience- cab too hot in higher temps summertime driving, too cold in less than 40 degree wintertime driving, the cab a/c and heat just can’t keep up. When it was still under warranty I had the heat and a/c system looked at by several different shops in both seasons, several ‘fixes’ were tried each time but only minimal gains made. I can also see through to the front cap, and have found a few other areas where there’s a gap through to the outer wall. That’s a big contributor to the uncomfortable temps in the cab and also the ferocious cab noise when at speed. Insulating and patching these gaps would seem to be a solution to help both issues, just haven’t gotten around to figuring out what’s best to try. But I did find that if having to run the genny and house a/c anyhow while driving, plugging in a house fan and sitting it beside the dining table so that it blows cold air into the cab from the a/c unit with it’s air dump doors open helps a lot. And a couple of tiny DC space heaters plugged into the sockets below the radio and placed near driver and passenger feet in winter helps a lot too.
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Old 07-29-2020, 10:21 PM   #6
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Thanks! I've done the same so far. I've keep the dump valves open on both ac's and have put in two front fans in the drivers area as well a using a fan to push air from the coach up to the driver area. I also did a little looking and think the best way to get to the front nose area would be to remove the storage are in front of the bunk. I believe there are only some trim pieces that would need to be removed to access the area. Regardless, it's a terrible design and so uncomfortable to drive.
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Old 07-31-2020, 02:59 PM   #7
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I removed the storage part and accessed the front cap, not an easy job!. There is no insulation in there except for some small pieces to isolate the wires I'm guessing. I jammed it full of noise insulation batts, not sure what they were called as a friend gave them to me, they were about six inches thick and were very dense. I also installed more of the noise barrier insulation under the dog house cover. Wrapped the exposed heater ducts with insulation. I took some of the batt insulation and jammed it in behind heater box and a few other places. Did it help?. Certainly helped with noise but not a great deal. As far as heat and cold, we will see next trip south but I think it will help. There have been a few posts over the years about this FR3 problem so it may be worth your while to use the search engine on this forum.
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Old 07-31-2020, 11:05 PM   #8
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Thanks! I actually searched multiple times and ways and couldn't find this. If you have links to previous posts I'm more than happy to read up on them. I would think that adding insulation to the nose and possibly putting tint at least at the top of the window would help. I have absolutely no issues with heat from the floor. Actually, I'm really pleased with that part. Our Class C Forester was equally very comfortable on the floor. Maybe FR has done a better job of insulating the bottom, just not the top. I will be interested to see what your results are on your next trip.
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Old 08-03-2020, 01:29 PM   #9
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Installed Curtains in Cab

We have a 2020 FR3 DS30 and experienced the "hot cab" in the warmer weather this year and after reviewing several forum threads where many suggestions were offered to keep the cab cooler, we decided for installing the curtains behind the captain chairs. BIG difference! I keep the fan speed on either 2 or 3 setting and it's nice. We keep the curtains closed by using 3 clips in the middle. This also helps with privacy at night with the stock side window shades as there are some slight gaps.

I installed a lightweight metal rod secured to each side wall and used curtains that have a 65% polyester / 35% cotton blend. This allows just a little breathing room as we didn't want to have a total block of air.

No other adjustments made at this time but still investigating the clear 3M window film that was suggested to repel the sun/heat.
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:23 PM   #10
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Thanks for that! We have a curtain at the top that we installed for the bunk but it's not full length. We will give that a try as well! I just hate that it wasn't built right at the factory.
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Old 08-08-2020, 04:38 PM   #11
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I have 2018 30 ds and I have been dealing with the same two problems heat and noise so being grounded for COVID I put another layer of dynomat under hood insulation in the doghouse
I also bought some insulation board from Home Depot stuff is called silveRboard it is supposed to work as a sound proof and has an R5 thermal rating
I glued and nailed it to the under side from the front to just passed the trans also was enough in the box to do the area under the dashboard and some of the other areas in the engine compartment the box contained 40sq sounds better right now but I need to take a longer trip
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Old 08-08-2020, 04:54 PM   #12
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Georgetown cockpit same as FR3

Now you see the cockpit.......now you don’t
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Old 08-13-2020, 09:51 AM   #13
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Update
I am on the road and I can tell you that the improvements I made have made a big difference first the noise its about 3 decibels
Lower on average me a dw noticed a difference especially on decent roads it was really quiet I checked it at 60/65 mph
And I was able to make the trip from south Florida to Greenville sc with just the dashboard ac,saved a lot of fuel by not having to run the generator, air temps ran from 88/95 tires ran 100/110 deg
For a about $100 one of the best improvements I have made
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Old 08-13-2020, 10:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankie D View Post
Update
I am on the road and I can tell you that the improvements I made have made a big difference first the noise its about 3 decibels
Lower on average me a dw noticed a difference especially on decent roads it was really quiet I checked it at 60/65 mph
And I was able to make the trip from south Florida to Greenville sc with just the dashboard ac,saved a lot of fuel by not having to run the generator, air temps ran from 88/95 tires ran 100/110 deg
For a about $100 one of the best improvements I have made
Did you take pics?
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Old 08-14-2020, 02:26 PM   #15
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Hope this helps the ac duct hose I used foil bubble wrap and taped it on
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Old 08-15-2020, 12:01 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by frankie D View Post
Attachment 236575Attachment 236576Attachment 236577Attachment 236578
Hope this helps the ac duct hose I used foil bubble wrap and taped it on
I am going to try Frost King FV516 Duct Insulation on the air ducts since it is self adhesive.

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Old 08-15-2020, 07:56 AM   #17
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Great let us know how it works
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Old 08-20-2020, 11:39 PM   #18
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My Coachmen Freelander and FR3 both had the same problem with the front of the rigs getting hot, even with the engine and rooftop AC's running. I found that if you opened the windows or the rooftop vents when driving, dynamic air pressure would bring in more heat from the area of the doghouse or engine compartment area. If you shut the windows and rooftop vents you may sense a noticeable improvement in cooling capability. It's a high-pressure VS low-pressure equalization thing. Give it a try.
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Old 08-28-2020, 10:13 AM   #19
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We installed curtains as well based upon another thread suggestion and it made a BIG positive difference.
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Old 09-08-2020, 09:45 AM   #20
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If I run the genny and front and cab AC, our DS33 is always comfortable. Without that, a sweatbox on just the cab AC.
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