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Old 05-28-2015, 07:22 PM   #41
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Last week in Orlando 96degrees, humidity like a blanket. Set at 68 degrees , all blinds closed and covers in vents. Cool and comfy during the day and blanket at night..
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:38 PM   #42
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So we have a 2014 30DS and it came with a 13,500k Dometic AC stock and it had trouble keeping the coach cool if the temperature was over 85 degrees. Instead of messing around here is what I did:

1. Change coach power from 30 to 50 amp.
2. Install Atwood Air Command 18k equivalent in place of the factory AC
3. Install Atwood Air Command 15k equivalent in bedroom

These units are WAY better than the Dometic in my opinion, one of the best and most noticeable differences is the noise. I can have both units running on high and I dont need to crank up the volumn to watch TV. They also pull less power, about 9-10 amps on the smaller rear unit and 10-11 on the front larger unit. Below are pictures...
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:03 PM   #43
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LOL !!!!
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:07 PM   #44
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looks like a nice EXPENSIVE fix!! I would have probably done the same thing if Ihad that much money to spend. Mine works fine though, very cold,,,,, but it is noisy.
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Old 05-30-2015, 07:07 PM   #45
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I don't have a FR3 I have a 2011 Berkshire. Mine came with two 13.5 and it would not keep up. Lots of Berkshire owners switched out the 13.5 for 15000 to get the temp down on a hot day. What I did was add a front sun screen on the outside of the windshield. I also put the same product on the drivers side window and also on the door, I also added awnings on all the windows. we winter in FL and before we headed home this year it was up to 85 90 almost every day. My AC kept up and even cycled although short cycles they did turn off. I could bring the temp down about 20 degrees. I happy with that but if/when the AC fail i will replace with 15,000 BTU units. I know the FR3 is 30 amp so I thought you might want to try some of these ideas first. My outside windshield sunscreens are from Magna Shade phone is 336 753 0905 and are located in NC. Several companies make a product like this but I like Magna because I didn't have to drill holes in the MH and I can install them without a ladder. The awnings are from ProShade and I don't have contact info. The sunscreen makes a huge difference in the temp.



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Old 05-30-2015, 07:34 PM   #46
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First real test. 103 F in Phoenix. The new 13.5 Coleman Mach in the bedroom and the Dometic 15 in the main cabin kept the coach at 75 F. Noisy but cool! We added a separate 30 amp line for the bedroom unit and pigtail to 50 amps in the park.


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Old 05-31-2015, 06:04 PM   #47
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FR3 Air Conditioning

I applaud those that have "cooled down" their coaches by adding another 30a line and upgraded to 50 amp or swapping out and multiplying AC units. To each his own.

but for us it's not a full time domicile. It's a camper! When we first started camping we slept on the ground in a two man tent. With a golden retriever, no electric anything.

I'm quite happy with our 30ds so far. I've found at a few things can be done to keep the coach cool.

We purchased insulated foam pillows that fit in the 14x14 skylines. These block out the sun and keep the cool from leaking out and in the fall keeps the coach warmer. Obviously they must be removed to open and use the vents.

We have a daytime sun screen for the inside of windshield (while parked) It provides privacy so we can see out but from outside they cant see I'm. At night we lower the windshield shade. and keep the side shades down during the day.

We have a fan. Not a $250 rain sensor equipped auto opening remote controlled fantastic device. just a plain electric fan that can be moved around inside !

I installed Jenks vortex 12v exhaust fan adapters in all three vents. These adapters fit from the inside (you remove the screen and install the units) and do not require you to peel the factory vent frame off the roof. As low as $40 each on Amazon. Yes you have to wire them to existing power and they only exhaust, but they pull a lot of air out, especially out of the bathroom.

We often travel with the drivers window open and the rear bedroom vent open. Cool air circulates and warm air exits the rear.

We installed a screen on the rear bedroom window, allowing us to prop it open to increase air flow at night. Those two tiny windows in the bedroom slid are just a teaser.

I'm not saying those of you that have done major AC upgrades are crazy, I'm just Stating there are alternatives.

Now after a two week trip from the east to. S Dakota and Wyoming in August I might just change my mind. But for now, I think we will wait and see.




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Old 05-31-2015, 06:14 PM   #48
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We have the sunscreen in the inside also but have found that the sunscreen on the out side of the windshield is so much more efficient.



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Old 06-06-2015, 12:28 AM   #49
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Well after 2 weeks in Moab I'm unhappy with the roof AC unit. No where near capable of even trying to keep it livable during the day inside JeNNY. At night it worked great when it dropped down to 50. Hardly any air blows out of the roof vents, it just unreal. Did I get a bad unit or is the duct work bad? Anyone got any info that they could toss my way? Thanks eh.


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Old 06-06-2015, 12:51 AM   #50
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Question: do the battery have to be charged for the A/C to work? My battery was dead and when I plugged in to shore power, I didn't have any power at the thermostat.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:04 AM   #51
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Yes it takes 12 volts to the thermostat to operate the AC unit.
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:12 AM   #52
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Wayne and Sherry,

Last year we experienced the southwest in July and August and just like you were miserable and unhappy how poorly our 13.5 BTU AC performed. We installed a 15k AC unit in the main cabin moved the 13.5 AC to the bedroom. Closing doors to separate the main cabin from the bath/bedroom will help you keep the main cabin cooler. We also used a fan on the floor to blow the cold air around. But in the heat of the day the single standard AC unit can't cool the coach. Sucks but reality.
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:34 AM   #53
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It is well known that the FR3 has a horribly underpowered AC system. Do you have the Dometic or the Atwood? I worked with Travis Bird at FR and he replaced my Dometic with the Atwood. The Atwood is quieter, but doesn't blow as hard as the Dometic. I complained again to Travis, who then had the dealer seal off the front and rear roof caps (the AC blows into the roof, past the last vent towards the front and rear and the cold air just sits in there...very poorly engineered! Anyway, this next weekend is the first time I'll be able to test it out since they've done this. Going to be in 90 degree weather. I'm not optimistic, but I'll let you guys know how it goes.

The good things about the Atwood is that it's very quiet, even on high fan, and the heat pump is nice. If you're plugged into shore power you don't have to burn propane to keep warm.


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Old 06-06-2015, 05:22 PM   #54
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No new AC but hope to have a lot less heat by tinting all the windows.
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Old 06-06-2015, 05:48 PM   #55
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That is the key to keeping the coach cool. A windshield cover and driver side will do even more.



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Old 06-06-2015, 08:57 PM   #56
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We have the Atwood. I'm going to call Travis Bird and ask him for a few minutes of his time to go over some concerns and see what he has to say! I know he is a great guy!!


JeNNY (2015 FR3 / 30DS)
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:46 PM   #57
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Travis has been amazing to work with. He has never told me "no." Make sure to have your front and rear caps sealed and see how it goes.


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Old 06-12-2015, 10:59 PM   #58
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I need air help. 2015 FR3 28DS
Since you all are air experts maybe you can help. Is the air unit supposed to work while you drive ? I can't get mine working.
I took my family to Lake Tahoe today, had to go they Sacramento at 113 degrees, the air unit upfront was really of little help but worse no air in the rest of the coach made for a very rough ride.
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:32 PM   #59
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It will if you run the generator and have the 30 amp plug connected to the outlet in the big storage bay. The roof top AC needs 120vac to run..
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:43 PM   #60
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I was told by the dealer when I bought the RV to Not run when propane is open and not with generator on. But I see other posts that say propane in to keep refrigerator cool and generators in for A/C. So this is ok to do so?
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