Fridge won't work on 120VAC

[rbq]

Yes it is a reset button. Push in between the 2 wires. If this is tripped you will have no lights on in the fridge or on the panel.

[RESET]

Finally got batteries in my multimeter and the darn thing doesn't work. will have to run into town and grab a new meter. What a pain.

Since I have lights and the fridge is running on LP, I don't think it is an issue with that reset. I wouldn't think it was the thermistor either since it seems to work fine with LP.

[RESET]

OK, here we go. Fuses are fine. Thermistor checked at 8.99 Kohms with fridge at 32°. Heating coil checked at 41.6 Ohms. Checked for continuity between each lead and ground, all good there.

[SidecarFlip]

While on the subject of propane fridges and not wanting to start another thread.. Just how 'level' do they need to be to operate? Reason I ask is because I have a slide in truck camper and it's not always possible to get it absolutely level.

Not trying to hijack the thread but I am curious..

[5picker]

From years of camping and reading many forums, the rule of thumb (as I understand) is within 3/4 bubble.

[RESET]

Called the RV dealership that has mobile service available. They said that the last thing g to check would be the board. Need to turn the fridge to auto and plug it in then test the tabs on the board where the coil plugs in. Turns out they were actually coming to this campground for a different service call, they are booked up until next year. They said they would stop by and check it for me when they finished the service call. Overall, been a good day.

[Bama Rambler]

Please post back what they find. It'll definitely help someone in the future. And besides, I'd really like to know what the problem is.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

While on the subject of propane fridges and not wanting to start another thread.. Just how 'level' do they need to be to operate? Reason I ask is because I have a slide in truck camper and it's not always possible to get it absolutely level.

Not trying to hijack the thread but I am curious..

Originally Posted by 5picker

From years of camping and reading many forums, the rule of thumb (as I understand) is within 3/4 bubble.

3/4 bubble is more than close enough.

Every spec I have ever seen whether it was Norcold, Dometic, or Atwood says within 3* of plumb/level (that's side ways on the fridge, usually front to back on the trailer, and that's what is most critical because of the cooling units design) On a 20' trailer 3* out of level is more than a foot front to back and way more than 3/4 bubble on any level. You'll definitely feel it and would have to be blind or have had a few too many cocktails to not notice you're that far out.

Front to back on the fridge they say 6*. That's almost 10" out of level side to side on an 8' wide trailer. You'll feel that also, not to mention your beers will roll right out when you open the door.

[RESET]

Sorry, thought I already posted the findings. Their final test was to check for power going to the coil connection on the board. They got nothing. The board has gone bad. I have read that the relays have a tendency to go bad. I never would have figured that a fridge less than a year old would have a bad board but that is what it is. It will be replaced under warranty. All I have to pay for is the service call.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by RESET

Sorry, thought I already posted the findings. Their final test was to check for power going to the coil connection on the board. They got nothing. The board has gone bad. I have read that the relays have a tendency to go bad. I never would have figured that a fridge less than a year old would have a bad board but that is what it is. It will be replaced under warranty. All I have to pay for is the service call.

If I was you I'd order a new board from Dinosaur, and swap out the new warranty provided board keeping it as a spare. It seems like the stock Dometic boards are hit and miss except when it comes to the time they crap out which is usually when your on a trip.