Fridge won't work on 120VAC

DutchRv · 08-19-2016, 11:20 AM

2015 28DS

Dometic DM2652RBX

Won't work on 120VAC. I measured the outlet, it works. On circuit board both fuses are intact. Breakers fine. Get's cold on LP just fine.

On fridge itself it's on auto (prefers 120VAC, when no 120VAC, LP kicks in)

Any ideas folks?

PS, brand new.

**Bama Rambler** · 08-19-2016, 11:30 AM

Unplug one lead in the electric element and measure the resistance across the element. It should read about 44 ohms.

rbq · 08-19-2016, 11:59 AM

If it's new then get it to a dealer & let them deal with it. Otherwise if you want to fix yourself another option is to disconnect the 2 leads that go to the heater rod, turn off the fridge and then plug those 2 leads into a power cord. You can see where the heater goes into the boiler part of the cooling system. That heating element should be hot (don't burn yourself). If the fridge is cooling on LP then it sounds like you have a burnt out heating element. Make sure the fridge is level.

rbq · 08-19-2016, 12:04 PM

Your picture of the fridge control shows no lights. Did you have it set on gas only setting? Press the on switch & turn it to auto. If the lights don't come on then be sure & check the fuse in the converter box as well as the 2 or 3 in your panel on the back of the fridge.
Just went through this little exercise when my fridge wouldn't cool on AC or LP. Ended up being a leaky cooling system & had to replace fridge.

DutchRv · 08-19-2016, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Unplug one lead in the electric element and measure the resistance across the element. It should read about 44 ohms.

Would that be top or bottom in the picture?

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2016, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DutchRv

Would that be top or bottom in the picture?

Top in that picture is the heating element; bottom is the propane stack overtemp sensor.

Check again your "gas only" switch is not on as suggested.

DutchRv · 08-19-2016, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Top in that picture is the heating element; bottom is the propane stack overtemp sensor.

Check again your "gas only" switch is not on as suggested.

No it is set to auto

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2016, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DutchRv

No it is set to auto

If there are no lights on the panel, you need to check the fuse in the power panel.

However you say it gets cold on AC, so I assume you have good 12 volts.
I further assume the stack temp sensor is not open.

Next you need to check that there is 12 volts at the solenoid when the unit is calling for gas.

Try tapping on the top of the solenoid to see if it is hanging up due to possible corrosion inside.

Beyond that, you can check if you can smell propane when it is trying to light. Do you hear a snapping sound when its trying to light?

I have attached a troubleshooting guide that can go from there.

jftrombley · 08-19-2016, 12:56 PM

You should have a GFCI protected outlet feeding the refer. If so reset it or replace.

foretm · 08-19-2016, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herk7769

However you say it gets cold on AC, so I assume you have good 12 volts.

Lou - Point of clarification, its the opposite, works on gas not on AC according to OP. but great info with the diagram and attachments.

**Bama Rambler** · 08-19-2016, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DutchRv

Would that be top or bottom in the picture?

As Herk said, it's the top item in the pic. It plugs into the control board. Just turn off the power or unplug the power cord and unplug one of the wires going to the element and see what resistance you get across the leads.

checkmate99 · 08-19-2016, 01:58 PM

In your photo of the control panel, it looks as if the gas button is out....if it is, it will only run on propane, and there will be no lights illuminated. Just check to see if that is the case.....

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2016, 01:58 PM

We worked a similar issue in the other thread.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1294436

Sorry I confused the two ...

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2016, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by checkmate99

In your photo of the control panel, it looks as if the gas button is out....if it is, it will only run on propane, and there will be no lights illuminated. Just check to see if that is the case.....

This is most likely the issue. If you press the "gas button" back in, the auto light should come on and the AC heater in the fridge will start working if everything else is OK.

RESET · 12-21-2016, 02:30 PM

I am having the same issue with my fridge. It is the same model, 2016 build date. It works on propane but not on electric. The outlet is working and the board recognises the incoming power, if in auto and I unplug it, it kicks in the LP.

Everyone was completely preoccupied about the bottons in their answers but I don't see the fix or if the OP got it working on AC.

I have not been able to test the coil, need batteries for my multimeter.

**Herk7769** · 12-21-2016, 07:15 PM

There is an AC fuse on the control board and of course there is an AC heater in the stack; either or both could be bad and give you this failure mode.

While you may not have this model, evaporative refrigerators are all pretty similar.

RESET · 12-21-2016, 07:46 PM

Plan on testing the fuse and coil as soon as I get home. The fuse looks good but I had to get batteries for my multimeter to be able to test anything. I will post my findings in the morning.

OldCoot · 12-21-2016, 08:07 PM

Also check the stack overheat reset.

RESET · 12-21-2016, 08:28 PM

Do I just check that for continuity?

RESET · 12-21-2016, 11:01 PM

Looking at your pic, it looks like the black dot in the center is not sticking out as far as mine. Is this a reset button? Also, I thought that sensor was only for gas operation, since it is lower in the chimney than the electric element.

Small note, was too dark when I got home. Will have to do the tests in the morning. Fridge is running on LP just fine for now.

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