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Old 08-07-2017, 10:45 AM   #1
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Heading to FL (permanently): Any tips on keeping it cool? (FR3 30DS)

As the title states, we have 30DS that were taking to FL and will be living in it for a while maybe a year (longer if we dont get cabin fever). But it gets super hot down there obv, so I'm trying to think of ways to keep the coolness in, without killing the A/C.

I'm guessing we'll need to do the second A/C unit in the bedroom but might be able to hold off on that till next summer.

Insulation tips? Simple things I might not have thought of?
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Old 08-07-2017, 11:37 AM   #2
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I put reflectix in my windows and skylight.
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Old 08-07-2017, 12:33 PM   #3
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I put reflectix in my windows and skylight.
We have this, too for most of our windows. We'll probably put it on the windshield too but were hoping to be able to keep some windows open for natural light and what not.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:03 PM   #4
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You can use reflective tint on the windows and it does a great job keeping the heat out but lets you see out.
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:09 PM   #5
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Run the A/C hard overnight and get it as cool as possible. Then turn it up as the day goes on. A/Cs do better to keep cool than to remove heat.

As mentioned, Reflectix as much as you can tolerate.

Find shade, if you can. Park under a tree. I like to deploy my awning as much as possible as it shades on side of the camper.
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:30 PM   #6
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Get a dehumidifier, the humidity is killer in the summer. Keep vents closed so the air inside stays less humid.
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:45 PM   #7
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Park in as much shade as possible. Otherwise AC is a necessity. Here we just run them all the time in the summer . Don't bother with a dehumidifier, they will just throw more heat back into the room. The AC will take out the humidity. It does get cool in January for a break
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:50 PM   #8
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Moved to Florida Gulf area near Port Richey Fl. 12 years ago. Do some research, find a park that has some trees if possible. Shade is your freind here. Don't care how many AC units you have the sun and humid here by 2-3 in afternoon is brutal if you have no shade. Elec bills will eat you up if your in direct sun and plan on trying to cool. My unit is only 18' long with a 15000 AC and it's great if I get to 79 on a 100+ day. In summer my elec bill is around $100. a month. 2 AC units on my neighbors rig in summer runs him around $160. a month. I tinted all my windows, try to keep awning out as much as possible, been full time RV for 20 years and tried all the secrets. Shade is the answer !!!
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Old 08-07-2017, 08:30 PM   #9
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Thanks for the tips. I'll try a combo of them. I found some 3m tint that blocks a crazy amount of heat for the windows but it's about 1700 for the driving cabin windows and the rear. Not to mention all the side windows!
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Old 08-08-2017, 02:07 PM   #10
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Put Reflectix/InfraStop on the inside and top of your cabinets that hit the outer wall and ceiling too. This really helps with items that you store in there, esp. food. We don't use our front seats much when we are parked, so I have a long shower rod with heavy shower curtains (could use curtains) drawn across and just behind the seats, so we aren't cooling that front dead area. You will really notice the difference when you open them. If you need that area, then use Reflectix/InfraStop as much as you can in the windows with the most sun exposure.
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Old 08-08-2017, 04:37 PM   #11
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Having just gone through the summer in Las Vegas where the temps were a constant 110 for the month of July I saw people add additional ac's, incorporate swamp coolers, window tinting ect. The big thing is insulation. I have the Cardinal estate package with double pane windows, three AC's , and great insulation in the roof and walls. I never had trouble keeping the coach cool. Good luck.
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Old 08-08-2017, 04:40 PM   #12
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Knoxie
Having just gone through the summer in Las Vegas where the temps were a constant 110 for the month of July I saw people add additional ac's, incorporate swamp coolers, window tinting ect. The big thing is insulation. I have the Cardinal estate package with double pane windows, three AC's , and great insulation in the roof and walls. I never had trouble keeping the coach cool. Good luck.
Unfortunately it's too late for the windows. Maybe I can find some ways to add more insulation. And just deal with having the reflective stuff on my windows during the day.
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Old 08-08-2017, 04:58 PM   #13
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Robin&Jan in Ala.

We are full time in Alabama 40 ft Forest river 5 er , if you can put an RV cover over your unit it will cut down the heat by 10-20 degrees, also we do use dehumidifier to keep down the humidity, yes it creates a small amount of heat but cuts way down on how long the AC runs and only runs until desired setting is reached. Also a small "air mover " (looks like a fan but made diff.) also helps a lot got ours at Wall mart about $12. Welcome to the south.
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Old 08-08-2017, 04:59 PM   #14
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We are full time in Alabama 40 ft Forest river 5 er , if you can put an RV cover over your unit it will cut down the heat by 10-20 degrees, also we do use dehumidifier to keep down the humidity, yes it create a smaller amount of heat but cuts way down on how long the AC runs and only runs until desired setting is reached. Also a small "air mover " (looks like a fan but made diff.) also helps a lot got ours at Wall mart about $12. Welcome to the south.
You put a cover on it while in it? Or you mean for storage.
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Old 08-08-2017, 05:05 PM   #15
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No we put a 40x24 carport over 5er and deck.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:21 PM   #16
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Lots of good comments here!!! I live in Florida... do NOT park under a tree... park where a tree will give you shade during the hottest part of the day, which would be to the west of where your rig would be parked and the tree limbs at a 20 degree angle from the zenith point on your rig. There are hardware stores here that sell "pole barns" (a large sized pop up canopy) that you can set up over your rig. Gives you great shade and air circulation without cutting down on the view. Of course... you could add a portable air conditioner and vent it through a window, but remember... they draw air into the rig when they operate.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:22 PM   #17
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Reflectix all over including the cabinets above the pullout couch. Camco vent pillows, skylight reflectix, blankets= insulating curtain hanging down off bunkbed makes a big difference. That all works but you'll go stir crazy not being able to look outside, dark like a vampire. Make sure the ac is insulated properly, i wrapped the styofoam cover with some insulating reflective tape to assist in keeping the heat out. Also make sure the common wall between the intake and return is not leaking incoming air right into the return, thereby short circuiting the allowable cfm's. It made a difference. Buy a cheap infrared temp gun for checking.

Finally, some people will literally water down their rv at dusk to get the heat out of the rv (heatsink), so they can sleep comfortably. GL, plenty of nice advice on here.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:24 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Villagerjjm View Post
Lots of good comments here!!! I live in Florida... do NOT park under a tree... park where a tree will give you shade during the hottest part of the day, which would be to the west of where your rig would be parked and the tree limbs at a 20 degree angle from the zenith point on your rig. There are hardware stores here that sell "pole barns" (a large sized pop up canopy) that you can set up over your rig. Gives you great shade and air circulation without cutting down on the view. Of course... you could add a portable air conditioner and vent it through a window, but remember... they draw air into the rig when they operate.
I was going to add a second roof unit if anything. Not portable.


I may look into a 'pole barn' wasn't sure how well they hold up to the weather.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:26 PM   #19
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Reflectix all over including the cabinets above the pullout couch. Camco vent pillows, skylight reflectix, blankets= insulating curtain hanging down off bunkbed makes a big difference. That all works but you'll go stir crazy not being able to look outside, dark like a vampire. Make sure the ac is insulated properly, i wrapped the styofoam cover with some insulating reflective tape to assist in keeping the heat out. Also make sure the common wall between the intake and return is not leaking incoming air right into the return, thereby short circuiting the allowable cfm's. It made a difference. Buy a cheap infrared temp gun for checking.

Finally, some people will literally water down their rv at dusk to get the heat out of the rv (heatsink), so they can sleep comfortably. GL, plenty of nice advice on here.
I've seen people mention the common wall but I'm not sure what that means exactly.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:29 PM   #20
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take the white cover off the rv unit inside the rv and note the wall seperating where the air coming in is versus the return air. It's side by side sharing a common wall. That wall needs to have no leaks of cold incoming air flowing into the return. check the seams with your temp gun and use insulated tape and aluminum tape to seal off any leaks.
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