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09-17-2020, 09:15 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 94
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Load knocking when accelerating with exterior fluid spray passenger side
I just had a renter return my RV and it was making a knocking sound when the engine was in. There was moisture underneath the passenger side engine bay. There seem to be some spray inside the engine bay too when I peeked through the grill. The knocking got worse when I accelerated, and slowed down when I took my foot off the gas. Has anyone had this happen? Any clue to what it may be?
__________________
2015 FR3 DS30
Franklin, TN
franklinrvrental.com
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09-18-2020, 08:29 AM
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#2
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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Since you don't give us a clue as to what you have for a RV. That could be a number of things involving the RV, most likely the engine oil. When you give minimum information about your RV, don't expect much help.
BTW, the problem you have is the renter you let use the RV. That is why 94% of RV owners do not let others borrow, rent, or use their RV. The other 6% are lucky or have a huge lesson coming to them in the future. If I remember right, you were warned about the ramifications of renting your RV when you first mentioned it in another thread on the forum.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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09-18-2020, 09:03 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper
Since you don't give us a clue as to what you have for a RV. That could be a number of things involving the RV, most likely the engine oil. When you give minimum information about your RV, don't expect much help.
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The post is in the FR3 specific section.
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09-18-2020, 09:15 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: x
Posts: 12,423
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I would recommend approaching this step by step and eliminating problem one by one. I assume you mean in gear when you say "engine in". What I would do first is check all fluid levels then is pull the doghouse to get access to the engine start it and warm it up and find where the spray is coming from. I would then drive it with the dog house off to see where the noise is actually coming from (engine? trans? u-joints?) and go from there. Experience is a hard teacher she gives the test first and the lesson later. good luck
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Retired Navy
Jake my sidekick (yellow Lab) 10/04 - 05/20
2017 RAM 2500 CC 4X4 Cummins Diesel
2016 Flagstaff 26 FKWS
AF&AM & El Korah Shrine of Idaho
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09-18-2020, 10:39 AM
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#5
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles
The post is in the FR3 specific section.
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Still, OP should give the age of the RV, engine size and whether gas or diesel, and what he has already checked. First thing I would do because of the engine knock and spray is check for a missing engine oil filler cap or dip stick. Next would be a blown head gasket, a bad valve cover gasket or loose valve cover bolts.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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09-18-2020, 11:08 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper
Still, OP should give the age of the RV, engine size and whether gas or diesel, and what he has already checked. First thing I would do because of the engine knock and spray is check for a missing engine oil filler cap or dip stick. Next would be a blown head gasket, a bad valve cover gasket or loose valve cover bolts.
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Probably a good idea but FR3 does answer all those questions about the RV itself. It's a Ford F53 motorhome chassis.
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09-18-2020, 11:26 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper
Still, OP should give the age of the RV, engine size and whether gas or diesel, and what he has already checked. First thing I would do because of the engine knock and spray is check for a missing engine oil filler cap or dip stick. Next would be a blown head gasket, a bad valve cover gasket or loose valve cover bolts.
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Before all that I'd be more interested in what the "Moisture" and "Spray" actually was. Oil? Water? Coolant? ????
Knowing what they are would certainly let one know where to go looking.
I think the OP would be ahead of the game if he were to get a professional mechanic to look at the situation and give a professional opinion.
Could be something as simple as a loose "something" to as serious as internal engine parts damaged as a result of "Moisture" or "Spray" escaping the engine and the driver ignored the warning indicators.
To me this sounds like it could be serious and trying to diagnose the problem on a Forum is like trying to diagnose Cancer in a Virtual Dr's Appointment.
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"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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09-18-2020, 11:30 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 32
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I had a issue like this, come to find out there was a small hole in the heater hose. Where the hoses go thru the hard plastic firewall, Forest River simply butchered holes for the hoses to go thru and left uneven nubby points that rubbed a hole in the heater hose. The spray rained down on many moving parts and caused a heck of a racket. Might be something to look for on yours.
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09-18-2020, 11:48 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper
Since you don't give us a clue as to what you have for a RV. That could be a number of things involving the RV, most likely the engine oil. When you give minimum information about your RV, don't expect much help.
BTW, the problem you have is the renter you let use the RV. That is why 94% of RV owners do not let others borrow, rent, or use their RV. The other 6% are lucky or have a huge lesson coming to them in the future. If I remember right, you were warned about the ramifications of renting your RV when you first mentioned it in another thread on the forum.
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It's an FR3.. that's why I posted in the FR3 thread. You know.. V10/Ford. And if you have no intention of helping and wanna bring negativity to the commuity, find somewhere else to post.
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09-18-2020, 12:04 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 426
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Could it be that the renter drove in the flood and the water intruded into some place it should not ?
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09-18-2020, 12:35 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Stockdale Texas
Posts: 448
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Per colmbarry, for the spray, check heater hoses. They don't last forever. For the knock, louder when accelerating, lifter, rod knock, spun rod bearing? Does it sound higher up on engine? Lower as in around the oil pan? Any way you look at it, in this chassis, gonna be a chore to get valve covers off, etc. You could pull pan plug and see if there's metal on it, or debris comes out. Good luck.
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09-18-2020, 12:57 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: SFla
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gomatthew
It's an FR3.. that's why I posted in the FR3 thread. You know.. V10/Ford. And if you have no intention of helping and wanna bring negativity to the commuity, find somewhere else to post.
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maybe u shold buy a lock box for thr keys
__________________
98 "C" Coachmen Santara 304 FL
Scangauge, TST tpms
2 cats Tyler -Lucy
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09-18-2020, 02:25 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 182
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Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your coach. We had a loud knocking noise in our engine last year. lucky for us it was still under warranty and Ford took care of the problem. The problem was we lost a lobe on the right cam shaft. Ford replace all 32 cam follower and the right camshaft. This is a problem Ford had with the v10's in the commercial vehicles which use the same engine. The moisture on the ground on the right side could be from the AC drain. These are just some things to look at. Hope this helps a little bit.
Ps. our rig is a 2016 FR30 DS running the 2015 chassis.
Good Luck.
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09-18-2020, 02:47 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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Just a few general thoughts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gomatthew
I just had a renter return my RV and it was making a knocking sound when the engine was in. There was moisture underneath the passenger side engine bay. There seem to be some spray inside the engine bay too when I peeked through the grill. The knocking got worse when I accelerated, and slowed down when I took my foot off the gas. Has anyone had this happen? Any clue to what it may be?
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Check all he fluid levels under the hood. That will give you a clue as to what is leaking. Wipe up some of the fluid on a white paper towel, napkin, or sheet of paper. The color will give you a clue as to its source. Transmission fluid is red. Motor oil is honey to dark brown--pull the dipstick and wipe on the same paper for a match. Anti-freeze could be red or green--look in the antifreeze reservoir for a match. Same with the power-steering fluid. Let us know what matches.
If the oil is low, the hydraulic lifters (tappets) won't inflate and you will hear a sound--frequency increases with engine RPMs.
If the power-steering fluid is low, the pump will make a clacking sound that increases with engine RPMs.
If the water pump is going bad, it could make different kinds of noises.
If the engine gets hot from coolant loss, it could be pre-ignition. This is a knock that occurs under load (e.g., hard acceleration).
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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09-18-2020, 05:06 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 58
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Fluids have characteristics' Oil is brownish, Hydraulic or Transmission/Power Steering is Red. Antifreeze used to be green but can be orange, and guess what is clear.
__________________
2019 Fr3 30DS
CHF, Koni Shocks, 4K inverter, SK1000 Dish, Winegard Connect 2 4g, TST TMPS, Snap Pads,Flow Rite Battery Filler................
https://katskamper.com
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09-18-2020, 05:17 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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Umm?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilthepilot
Fluids have characteristics' Oil is brownish, Hydraulic or Transmission/Power Steering is Red. Antifreeze used to be green but can be orange, and guess what is clear.
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Umm, windshield washer fluid?
I forgot to mention taste. Most of these fluids are toxic in quantity, but touching a fingertip to the fluid and then putting a tiny bit on the tip of your tongue seems harmless. Coolant is sweet. Transmission fluid tastes like oil. Brake fluid has a unique smell.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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09-18-2020, 05:18 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: New port Richey FL
Posts: 1,464
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I hate to say it but knocking worse the higher rpm isn't normally good. I dont see a follow up with fluid results that is obviously first. The only 2 things this sounds like to me is 1 a rod knock 2 a crack in the fly wheel. 1 abuse/ lack of maintenance. 2 bad luck. Is the chassis still under warranty?
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09-18-2020, 06:16 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbiels7
I hate to say it but knocking worse the higher rpm isn't normally good. I dont see a follow up with fluid results that is obviously first. The only 2 things this sounds like to me is 1 a rod knock 2 a crack in the fly wheel. 1 abuse/ lack of maintenance. 2 bad luck. Is the chassis still under warranty?
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Water pump bearing failure will have similar characteristics. A crack in the flywheel doesn't normally result in fluid loss. Nor does a rod knock, unless it has advanced to the stage of punching a hole in the side of the block or oil pan. In that case, having zero oil pressure is usually a good indicator that the noise is serious.
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-Qwkynuf
2003 F150 Supercab 4x4, tow pkg, 3.55 gears
2020 Flagstaff Micro Lite 21DS
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09-18-2020, 06:21 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: New port Richey FL
Posts: 1,464
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A bearing failure normally sounds like a grinding sounds unless it is about to come apart. If it has been run low due to a leak and toped off before brought back definitely internal. If the flywheel is bad enough the wobble will make the rear main seal leak. After all it is a ford we could go on for days about Failures.
Sorry i had to do it.
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09-18-2020, 06:47 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbiels7
A bearing failure normally sounds like a grinding sounds unless it is about to come apart. If it has been run low due to a leak and toped off before brought back definitely internal. If the flywheel is bad enough the wobble will make the rear main seal leak. After all it is a ford we could go on for days about Failures.
Sorry i had to do it.
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I won't take your bait on the Ford thing (mine have all been super reliable), but you do remind me that the V-10s were a little bit notorious for spitting out spark plugs. That could result in both noise and some gas/oil mixture blowing around.
I think they fixed it by changing the head castings but I don't recall what year they changed over.
__________________
-Qwkynuf
2003 F150 Supercab 4x4, tow pkg, 3.55 gears
2020 Flagstaff Micro Lite 21DS
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