Low Voltage

[Chuck_S]

"Code" requires the LP detector be connected directly to the battery.

My camper predates any factory battery disconnect switch. I installed a marine (boat) battery switch right at the battery box on the Negative pole of the battery. This completely disconnects everything including things wired directly to the battery like the tongue jack, brake disconnect -- and LP detector. Big red switch mounted directly on the battery box makes it hard to miss.

Disconnecting the Negative pole involves disconnecting one (1) cable as that goes to the trailer frame and disconnects all 12v thingies when off.

Just put a switch there. Probably $20 at your favorite boat store. Just need On/Off.

-- Chuck

[NJKris]

jdbunch, that's what I do. I don't trust the converter to be as kind to the batteries running long term over the winter as I do my CTEK smart chargers. I just run an extension cord to the tongue and keep the charger, which is largely weather proof, running on top of a couple boards below the trailer where it is pretty much protected from excessive rain and snow. Hooked directly to batteries, I can still have the batteries disconnected via the disconnect switch, and the smart charger monitors voltage and does it's thing if voltage starts to fall due to CO detector, etc.

[Chuck_S]

Winter? Self-discharge slows when the temperatures drop.

I never remove my batteries and when I barn-stored in Cleveland just disconnected the Negative cable (via a switch I installed). Five months in the barn (Nov-Apr) and the batteries come out at 12.4vDC, roughly 80% charged.

Parked outdoors and covered here in Richmond the batteries get solar charged every month or so (or when I remember).

But ya should disconnect the battery any time the trailer is parked. The factory switch won't do it as it leaves the LP detector connected to the battery and it is the primary electrical draw and the reason a battery can be dead in a couple of weeks. Deep discharge is bad. Super deep discharge is fatal.

-- Chuck

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

"Code" requires the LP detector be connected directly to the battery.
-- Chuck

Oh yeah. Here's the installation procedure for a detector.

Connect to wiring or circuit that CANNOT be turned off by a switch or ground fault protector. Only use UL or recognized permanent wire connectors. It is acceptable to connect the 35 Series CO / LP gas alarm to the main disconnect. The alarm will be off along with all other 12 volt equipment when the main disconnect is turned to the off position. The RV must not be occupied when the main disconnect is in the off position.

[llr]

Originally Posted by Lfresin1

According to the battery indicator, it's drawing 25% of the battery in 24 hours.

I doubt if it is the detector drawing 25% in a day. How are you determining the 25%?

If it is really going down that much you have a bad battery or something else is drawing power.

[bubbles]

1) Right afterwards. I checked the panel and it had all 4 lights on indicating a full charge. The steps came out, I could turn lights on, and a fan. But I know that running the engine for such a short time could not really charge the battery to full capacity.[/QUOTE]

2) Short of removing the battery connections, defeating the whole convenience of a disengage button, what other options are there to stop the LP detector from drawing power?[/QUOTE]


1) If the convenience center panel lights are being used as the indicator for battery condition I think the top light for the battery alone is just indicating the batteries are being charged and not condition. The light may stay illuminated for a time period when not being charged. I have a GT but not an FR3.

2) There is a 5 amp in line fuse connected directly to one of your coach batteries. Pulling that fuse will remove power to the detector and its LP shutoff solenoid. An FR3 has several inline fuses connected directly to the coach batteries.

This is a typical FR3 battery control center drawing: