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Old 09-21-2016, 03:39 PM   #1
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Exclamation Rear sway Bar check

Just a friendly reminder check bolts and brackets on rear sway bar. check mind every 6 months but its still happens.
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:45 PM   #2
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This happened to me when I was on my trip out west this summer. Top bolt came loose and fell out. Bottom bolt was loose and was able to unscrew with my fingers. Luckily I happen to look under the coach during a fuel stop, not sure why. Got a bolt from a repair shop at the Flying J and with the help of a 3lb hammer, was able to straighten out the bracket and get it bolted back up. I checked the rest and made sure all bolts were tight.
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Old 09-21-2016, 04:00 PM   #3
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Just a friendly reminder check bolts and brackets on rear sway bar. check mind every 6 months but its still happens.
Always a good practice Carl. I check mine before and after every trip. If I'm out on a long trip, I'll check occasionally. So far, so good. Rather be safe than sorry.
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:51 PM   #4
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Makes me wanna get under it tomorrow and unscrew them, and refasten with locktite and torque wrench.

Thanks for letting us know!
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:53 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by DutchRv View Post
Makes me wanna get under it tomorrow and unscrew them, and refasten with locktite and torque wrench.

Thanks for letting us know!
Ditto! Guess I need to get under the Sunseeker this weekend and check!
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:58 AM   #6
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I replace my bolts with grade 8's and nylon locking nuts with a splash of red thread locker.


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Old 09-23-2016, 12:16 PM   #7
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I replace my bolts with grade 8's and nylon locking nuts with a splash of red thread locker.
Doing this today. Any torque specs?
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Old 09-23-2016, 03:43 PM   #8
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I replace my bolts with grade 8's and nylon locking nuts with a splash of red thread locker.
Just a quick follow up, I did take my bolts out today and added locktite, but on my frame the nut is welded to the bracket that is welded to the axle assy.

Also can't use Grade 8s though, since these are (metric) M12 bolts. Mine were Class 10.9 which is strong enough. (similar to Grade 8 SAE)

PS. Thanks to the TS because mine were LOOSE
PS II. I love hanging out under the RV, I really do. Shouldve gone to school to be a mechanic
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:51 AM   #9
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sway bar bolts

The spot welded nuts can be broken loose by backing out the bolt about one turn and hitting it with a hammer. Replace the bolt with 1/2" standard grade 8 bolt. If you were to put a trac bar on this is what you would have to do.
I put a SS trac bar on my 30DS and that is what had to be done. Sense installing the trac bar i have put on 15000 miles and nothing has come loose.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:50 PM   #10
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I couldn't speak on the stock welded nuts as mine were already missing. That's why l used all grade 8 nylon locking with locker on the threads, and l cranked em as tight as l could.


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Old 10-07-2016, 02:35 PM   #11
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Because of this thread, I went to check on mine. This is what I found. I see from previous posts it is a metric M12 bolt, but how long should it be?
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Old 10-07-2016, 02:50 PM   #12
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Because of this thread, I went to check on mine. This is what I found. I see from previous posts it is a metric M12 bolt, but how long should it be?
M12 x 1.75 x 35mm
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Old 10-07-2016, 02:59 PM   #13
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Yikes!! I'm getting the creeper out right now and going under!! Thanks for the heads up, Boys. I just came off a 2400mi trip on some pretty rough pavement and lots of wind.
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Old 10-07-2016, 03:25 PM   #14
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Thanks DutchRv!

Also, while under there I am going to do the cheap handling fix (connecting the front and rear sway bars to the inboard holes instead of outboard). Every thing I have read said this improved handling performance. Has anyone heard of any negatives to doing this.
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Old 10-07-2016, 03:51 PM   #15
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If it is 12mm, you can use a gr 8 1/2" x 1-1/2" bolt and gr 8 nyloc nut.
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Old 10-08-2016, 01:52 AM   #16
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Thanks DutchRv!

Also, while under there I am going to do the cheap handling fix (connecting the front and rear sway bars to the inboard holes instead of outboard). Every thing I have read said this improved handling performance. Has anyone heard of any negatives to doing this.
I did it. Great improvement!
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:34 PM   #17
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Thanks DutchRv!

Also, while under there I am going to do the cheap handling fix (connecting the front and rear sway bars to the inboard holes instead of outboard). Every thing I have read said this improved handling performance. Has anyone heard of any negatives to doing this.
The only negative is on the front. If you do not use a longer link you could get clunking noise and premature bushing failure. Nothing catostrophic. I have 25,000 miles on mine since the adjustment was made.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:15 PM   #18
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Looks like mine is broken as well. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:55 AM   #19
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Follow up

Well, after crawling under the rig per my previous post I found the right side bracket broken as per pics by others. I have 15,000 mi. on this rig so it's a Ford warranty deal but I ordered the parts from my local Ford guy so I have them on board for the next time. The parts are cheaper than the fuel to go get it fixed for free. I will have Ford fix it, though.
Les, my local Ford parts guy, pointed out that the sway bar for the 24K-26K chassis is stiffer and actually costs $158 compared to $196 for the 16K-22K.
That, along with the CHF might be a good way to go. The Roadmaster bar for $500+ probably works well as it should for that kind of money.
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