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07-03-2022, 09:02 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 30
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Screws into exterior walls to mount door latch
I want to install a latch to hold the door open. The designed gas strut is useless as it disconnects with a wind gust. I also want to install the same latch for the main pass thur storage door.
My questions/concerns are:
*what length screw can I use without going too deep?
*The attached photos show my intended installation points. Could I have issues with the location and the door moving back and forth with any wind?( the wind is the primary reason that the gas strut failed).
* behind the vertical frame of the electric awning, is there a strong vertical backing?
Thanks
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07-04-2022, 08:24 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 597
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I wouldn't go more than 1.75 inches, you have the thickness of the base for the holder. On my 5th wheel the walls are 1 7/8 thick. Your solution may not work, with the awning arm there you will not be able to open the door all the way with the awning open.
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07-04-2022, 09:13 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: N. Illinois
Posts: 2,371
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They make that latch in a size longer than you show. On my TT that came with that gas shock, I removed them years ago. I used the diameter for largest thread pitch that fit the holes, but probably 1" long knowing there was nothing behind it. Use butyl tape to mount and and tighten finger tight over a few weeks time. The butyl tape will migrate/move and provide a lot of your holding force... like glue. By about the 3rd time you do this in this hot weather , you'll be done and not strip the fiberglass I did this 8 yrs ago. No regrets, my doors only opened to 90*, now as flush as possible
__________________
2016 Flagstaff 27VRL Emerald
14K Equalizer
2020 Silverado 2500HD CC 4X4 6.6L gas 3.73
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07-04-2022, 12:23 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 30
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Thanks for the replies and good info. I’m updating here since I don’t know how to edit my original posts.
I will check these screw lengths. I found some on line that are painted black and “won’t rust”? I like the butyl tape idea.
Sorry for my vagueness but I do plan to, think I have to, install 2 on the entry door. The longest is for when the awning is out and the medium size is for when it’s fully open. I like it fully open to not block the view. Again, thinking I need 2?
In the photo the shortest is for the cargo door.
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07-04-2022, 12:24 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcatter
I wouldn't go more than 1.75 inches, you have the thickness of the base for the holder. On my 5th wheel the walls are 1 7/8 thick. Your solution may not work, with the awning arm there you will not be able to open the door all the way with the awning open.
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Thanks for the reply. Please see my update in another reply thoughts?
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07-04-2022, 01:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: N. Illinois
Posts: 2,371
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You can always get black nail polish at the dollar store for the screw heads. Don't be afraid of having butyl tape on the screw threads, that will help it to stay tight.
__________________
2016 Flagstaff 27VRL Emerald
14K Equalizer
2020 Silverado 2500HD CC 4X4 6.6L gas 3.73
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07-04-2022, 01:33 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: N. Illinois
Posts: 2,371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff64
You can always get black nail polish at the dollar store for the screw heads. Don't be afraid of having butyl tape on the screw threads, that will help it to stay tight.
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The front one is positioned to accommodate an open tilt out window and give enough clearance so if the door gets away from me in wind gust that the door won't smash the glass if the window were open
__________________
2016 Flagstaff 27VRL Emerald
14K Equalizer
2020 Silverado 2500HD CC 4X4 6.6L gas 3.73
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07-04-2022, 08:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,621
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Far away from hinge
You should mount both latch elements as far away from the hinge as possible. If you mount them as shown in the marked-up image, there is tremendous leverage if a wind gust hits the door or if someone grabs the door handle or edge and tries to close it while latched. The screws will be ripped right out of the door or trailer side. It's like a long crowbar with the fulcrum close to the load and far from the applied force.
When buying screws, remember that the door is probably thinner than the adjacent wall.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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07-04-2022, 10:44 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Fairview Park, Oh
Posts: 15
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Add hinges
I would add the additional hinges and remove the strut.
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07-05-2022, 10:42 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 998
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Id try a Friction Hinge before I start drilling holes, on my FR3 I installed them
Ive experienced winds up to 25 MPH and it held the door steady.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ge-226637.html
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2019 FR3 33DS Motorhome
650 Watts Solar, 400Ah LIFEPO4, 2000 Watt Inverter, 40A DC/DC Charger, SumoSprings, Roadmaster Steering Stabilizer, BlueOx Trac Bar, Truma AquaGo WH, NVIDIA Shield TV
Days Camping
2019 57:2020 20:2021 30:2022 46:2023 47:2024 7
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07-05-2022, 01:43 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 182
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Lookup fr3 front door strut& mod. I posted a fix that has worked very well for me for the last 5 or 6 years. Hop this helps.
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07-05-2022, 05:35 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edm
Lookup fr3 front door strut& mod. I posted a fix that has worked very well for me for the last 5 or 6 years. Hop this helps.
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Thanks. I’ll look.
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