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Old 08-01-2015, 09:09 PM   #1
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Starting my floor repair project, Blast 150 MPH

the soft spots on the rear corners are getting bad, so I thought I'd start and finish the rear only between camping trips. the soft spots at my side door is going to be a real big job because I will need to remove the kitchen to fix that area. I'm going to reuse the flooring for this fix. I cut the flooring near the edges and pulled it up and started pulling up the wet insulation and plywood.

the right side was the worse. even the lower rear side wall will need to be replaced but that project will involve taking the siding and wheel wells off.

I still do not know where the water is coming from. I have no leaks that I can see.














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Old 08-01-2015, 09:18 PM   #2
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tomorrow before I finish the job, I'm going to raise the front of the trailer high and run the shower, sink and toilet, one at time and see if I can get any water to run to the rear.
the black liner under the insulation is lower between supports and will allow water to run all over the place. two foot from the rear in the center of floor I can stick my hand under the floor and the insulation is damp. I was wringing wet on the right rear.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:08 PM   #3
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do a search under "blast 150". coachmen chris did extensive floor repairs on his...

fresh water fill and shower trap are 2 common places for leaks
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:45 PM   #4
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do a search under "blast 150". coachmen chris did extensive floor repairs on his...

fresh water fill and shower trap are 2 common places for leaks
Yes, I got most of my motivation from Chris' repair thread. My fresh water fill is fine but I do have a leak that I just found. the hot and cold are dripping and they drip right into the hole where the shower drain is. thats my next fix. with the tarp under the floor, water can travel anywhere.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:56 PM   #5
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and ....the hole where the drain is, is where the water got between the vinyl and the substrate and migrated down the coach to destroy your floor...
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Old 08-02-2015, 06:29 PM   #6
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and ....the hole where the drain is, is where the water got between the vinyl and the substrate and migrated down the coach to destroy your floor...
yes, I've looked at the shower connections many times but never with the water running.

you can see the drip in the picture.

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Old 08-02-2015, 06:30 PM   #7
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this is how far I got today. I did cut the plywood and sized it up. More tomorrow after work
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:29 PM   #8
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Wow! This came out better than I thought. And at a low cost. Under 25 bucks.
I had a 2 x 8 piece of plywood left over from a home roofing job.
I bought two tubes of chalk, some aluminum trim for at the ramp door entrance and two 2 x 2 x 8’s for supports. I used some 3M adhesive that I had left over from recovering a Motorcycle seat for gluing the floor back down. And a rolling pin to flatten the floor out.
Whole job took about 25 hours and a case of DaSani water.
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:56 PM   #9
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Have you considered that maybe it is coming in from the top of the garage door when it rains?

Spray a hose up there and have someone inside when you do. Have them watch for drips. Stand on top and spray water at the roof in that area and likewise watch.

Water can come down inside walls and then when it hits a floor will spread out.
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Old 08-03-2015, 08:17 PM   #10
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Have you considered that maybe it is coming in from the top of the garage door when it rains?

Spray a hose up there and have someone inside when you do. Have them watch for drips. Stand on top and spray water at the roof in that area and likewise watch.

Water can come down inside walls and then when it hits a floor will spread out.
I've been inside during big storms and after big storms and never had any water coming from the ramp door. inside floor always dry.

It's been a mystery for a few years now. three years ago I first noticed a soft spot at the side door. that year I chalked everything and even added 4" eternal bond tape to every roof seam and over the gutters.

when I opened up the RV this year I was running water for about an hour to flush the fresh tank and hot water heater. I had some water running from under my sink cabinet (where my hot water heater is) across floor to the fridge. I opened the cabinet under the sink and had a puddle. I cleaned it up and could not find any leaks. I've tried to do it again and couldn't find any leaks. I've been on four trips this year and not a drop of water under sink.

my last trip my shower started leaking inside where the hot and cold meet and the shower head hose connects. I did look on the feed side and didn't see any water leaking. I rechecked this area with the water running and found a drip. picture is above in post #6. this leaks right to the opening in the floor where the tub drain and sink drains meet and go through the floor. and the tarp lets the water travel everywhere. It only leaks when shower is on. I had the pump on all day yesterday and not a drop at the shower feed
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Old 08-10-2015, 12:46 AM   #11
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WOOHOOO Good Job !! One thing I would check is the bolts for the tie downs. Had my 99Flh in there and the tie down ripped right out. The bolts went through the frame and rust did a number on the bolts.Rust ate the bolts so bad they were half the size they were supposed to be. Made it easier for the bolts to pull through.

I ended up using grade 5 bolts and nuts. I also used red loctite so the nuts wouldn't back off anytime soon.

Glad you found your water leak.
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:03 AM   #12
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I reused my hardware, it was still in good shape.
I hope the leaky shower was the problem. I still have the front half to rebuild but that will wait till the camping season is over. that will involve taking some of the kitchen apart.
I'll also have to do the bottom of the right side wall. that lowest support board under the siding is bad. its going to take removing the side door and the lowest piece of siding off along with the trim on the front and rear, top to bottom
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:10 AM   #13
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That came out great. How many hours you figure you were into it?

Water can destroy out units so fast. Nice that you were able to fix yours up so nice.

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Old 08-10-2015, 09:37 AM   #14
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That came out great. How many hours you figure you were into it?

Water can destroy out units so fast. Nice that you were able to fix yours up so nice.

Vin.
about 25 hours during a weekend, I could have done it faster but it was hot and I took a lot of breaks.
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Old 08-10-2015, 10:18 AM   #15
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you did replace with pressure treated lumber?
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:10 AM   #16
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you did replace with pressure treated lumber?
no, but didn't use fiber glass insulation either, that sucks up the water.

this was a quick fix, the trailer was getting unusable. the rear tie downs, in the corners were unusable.

I'm going the do the front floor near kitchen and side door floor soon, that will decide if I'm going to patch that area or just gut the whole trailer. its only 8' x 15'

I can't believe that a 7 year old trailer can get destroyed in such a short time
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:47 PM   #17
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Starting my floor repair project, Blast 150 MPH

One thing I forgot to mention. When I pulled the floor up I also removed the bolts in the metal piece by the ramp door on the floor.
One day I was opening the door and letting the ramp door go down when I noticed the metal was moving.

I had a welder add a piece of metal and then I screwed that into my new floor.

Not sure if I explained that correctly lol

In any case if you need a pic I can take one and show you what I mean.


It's the metal near the end of the floor at the back. The first thing you step on inside the unit while going up the ramp.
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:08 AM   #18
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Chris, I'm going to check that when I get home. I think the screws in the bottom of the ramp frame go into the chassis. My screws are still in there but I can now see why you would need more some support because I did cut my old floor along the ramp frame and didn't put the new plywood under the ramp frame.

those screws are metal self taping so I would think they screw right into the chassis.

Does that lower part of the door frame need support from the floor? time will tell.
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:46 PM   #19
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Just wanted to post pics to clarify.

I couldn't get the old wood out and the new wood in that lip of the metal.

So like I mentioned I had a piece of steel added so I could screw it to the new floor.

When I opened the ramp door the whole metal flexed up. Not now since the steel was added.

here's what it looked like





Here's how it looked after I covered it up with the bed-liner material

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Old 08-12-2015, 03:00 PM   #20
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Chris, I knew what you taking about. Mine does move also. You do need the extra support from the plywood extending under the ramp trim. I think I will just screw a strip a metal across the metal trim and into the plywood, it shouldn't move then. or maybe a piece of E-Track across the back, one side screwed into the metal the other in the plywood.
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