Legacy mods and improvements

[jkillesr]

Originally Posted by psw757

Could you possibly be freezing the units up? If your run them non stop at too low of a temp in humid conditions I believe this can happen.

Would seem very odd for both units in two different locations to be leaking from some other issue.

The idea of the condensate pans sounds possible but really shouldn't cause this as when coach isn't level it is designed to spill out on roof which has a slight arch to it and runs down sides to front or back and then over the side of coach.

If level it drips through drain tubes under coach.

One time the front Air did freeze up but other times, that has not seemed to be the issue, Motorhome is as level as the auto levels make it and confirmed it against bi-level bubble levels, it is right on the mark. I think I will take the covers off tomorrow and see if I can see anything, maybe I’ll take my air compressor and blow out the drain tubes. What is really weird is I can see a lot of condensation on the outside roof of the back cap

[conceptumator]

Sorry. I wasn't very clear when I talked about the condensate pans. What ?I meant to say was possibly the pan was overflowing and the water was pooling against one side, then leaking there. Might need yo check the seal of the AC unit to the roof.


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2015 Legacy SR340 360RB with 2014 Wrangler Unlimited Toad
Gigi, Poppy and Sadie the Jack Russell (all 14 lbs of her)

[jkillesr]

Originally Posted by conceptumator

Sorry. I wasn't very clear when I talked about the condensate pans. What ?I meant to say was possibly the pan was overflowing and the water was pooling against one side, then leaking there. Might need yo check the seal of the AC unit to the roof.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
2015 Legacy SR340 360RB with 2014 Wrangler Unlimited Toad
Gigi, Poppy and Sadie the Jack Russell (all 14 lbs of her)

Thanks for the good advice, as soon as I get home, I will check the seals and drains on both units, that makes the most sense.

[dndnva]

Originally Posted by lrob

Best fridge lock ever. This one works better than that twisty thing you have to put in. Attachment 84656Attachment 84657

No need to remove. Just install and you are all set. Moves back and forth.

Irob- I picked up the fridge lock today but it didn't come with screws, only the plastic part. Did they forget to send me the screws or did you have to buy those separately? I assume I will use the existing screw hole from the lock that came with it but will I have to drill another hole?

Thanks, Dana

[dndnva]

Originally Posted by dndnva

Irob- I picked up the fridge lock today but it didn't come with screws, only the plastic part. Did they forget to send me the screws or did you have to buy those separately? I assume I will use the existing screw hole from the lock that came with it but will I have to drill another hole?

Thanks, Dana

Update-I figured out both holes are there when you remove the screw that is capped, but still have to find another screw for the other hole! BTW, #12 screws are hard to find...Home Depot didn't have one.

[PFurlow]

This happened to us. Our air units kept freezing and then they were leaking. They finally went out and domestic replaced both units and they gave us a new 2 year warranty. We lived in the very hot south and the units are working great now. Read your manual because you have to reset your thermostat after the units are installed.

[Blacknchromehd]

Anyone want to share more than our legacys? I want to know more and if some can do meet ups in our areas

[cgpalmer]

Finally got around to installing these sliding drawers in the pantry. Makes a huge difference in usable space and access.

[captnrick3]

Originally Posted by cgpalmer

Finally got around to installing these sliding drawers in the pantry. Makes a huge difference in usable space and access. Attachment 92836

Nice job, looks great. Where did you get them?

[cgpalmer]

Thanks. Originally from Home Depot. We are selling a house that we had had installed these in the kitchen about a year ago. They work perfectly and took less than 20 minutes to install. 16" wide. Use a bit of industrial Velcro to keep them from rolling when we are moving.

[psw757]

Has anyone considered installing a power cable reel? They make some lower profile ones now but not sure if it would fit correctly.

[Blacknchromehd]

I considered installing a outside male outlet like you see on the 5th wheel trailers and then using a cord stored inside. Trying to get that big cord into the compartment takes more time than anything else...I did see one mounted inside the rear section where the radiator is located...plenty of room in there...

[psw757]

Originally Posted by Blacknchromehd

I considered installing a outside male outlet like you see on the 5th wheel trailers and then using a cord stored inside. Trying to get that big cord into the compartment takes more time than anything else...I did see one mounted inside the rear section where the radiator is located...plenty of room in there...

I'm not a big fan of the external plug that you see on the fifth wheel.

I think a powered reel would be nice, I think I'm going to investigate this more.

[aeroshots]

Moved the sound bar from inside to the outside TV location. Wow, what a piece of junk for a sound bar. I've got a good one on the way for the inside and will probably replace the outside one in the future.

[dndnva]

Originally Posted by captnrick3

I got rid of that picture day one, replaced with a mirror just to cover the area and installed brushed nickel towel racks. That area just proves RV decorators/designers never used an RV before.

Captnrick/Irob,
Did you use the screws that came with the towel racks or use shorter screws or molly bolts? I bought the one IROB installed but I am worried about putting those long screws in the wall....actually terrified they will pop out the side of the RV! Did you find studs or just center and use plastic screw sheaths?

Thanks...been putting this off too long and just need to do it!

[lrob]

just go to the HW store and get some 1/2" sheetrock screws. You don't need to put them all the way into the wall as the head needs to stick out so that it can hang. That will do the trick. I used 2 one on each end and then used 3M hanging tape on the back. Worked great !

[captnrick3]

Originally Posted by dndnva

Captnrick/Irob,
Did you use the screws that came with the towel racks or use shorter screws or molly bolts? I bought the one IROB installed but I am worried about putting those long screws in the wall....actually terrified they will pop out the side of the RV! Did you find studs or just center and use plastic screw sheaths?

Thanks...been putting this off too long and just need to do it!

Yep, what Irob said. The walls are at a minimum 1 1\4" thick and substantial enough that molleys or anchors are usually not necessary nor is finding a stud which would be aluminum anyway.

[aeroshots]

Moved some electrical cables so the engine access cover could be removed.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by aeroshots

Moved some electrical cables so the engine access cover could be removed.

How do you Normally gain access to the Engine bay? Where have you traveled to have a Engine in that condition on a 2016 unit? Youroo!!

[aeroshots]

Originally Posted by youroo

How do you Normally gain access to the Engine bay? Where have you traveled to have a Engine in that condition on a 2016 unit? Youroo!!

Normal access to the top of the engine is through the shown access panel. Day to day servicing is from the exterior rear. Someone at the factory routed two 120V cables across the panel making it impossible to remove.