Total power loss while driving

[SPCF]

2018 Legacy C38


Lost power while driving 3 times for 2 to 3 seconds in the last 2 years.
All goes dead, engine shut off as if I turned off the key, the dashboard goes dark, than all comes back on.
All is reset, as if I just turned the key ON. The only thing that does not reset is the transmission gear it was on, engine starts to run again as if nothing happened.
The first time it happened last year I call Freightliner, they said they never heard of any similar complaint, (I dont buy it).
It happened again yesterday as I drove thru Chicago in a busy hour and I had no way to pull over due to the construction.


I checked the main coach battery disconnect switch, cables and connections where ever I could see one and it all looks fine.


An intermittent problem like this is almost impossible to find so I hope someone have some ideas.



Thanks

[SeaDog]

It could be hundreds of things with that said I would think freightliner could hookup a diagnostic computer and read what happened with the rigs systems. With that said if it is not throwing a check eng light it may be something like a loose wire on the ignition system which is just a guess. Let the forum know what you find out if you do.

[Lincman983]

I would check the ignition solenoid in the front electrical run bay under the driver's door. It sounds like it is starting to fail.

[srappleby]

I experienced the same, un-nerving problems with my 2014 Legacy after I purchased it used in 2017. Everything completely dead, including emergency flashers. While waiting for the tow truck, I found a battery cable loose at the lug. Loose like you could just pull it out and slide it back in. I crimped it best I could with hand tools I had and was on my way.

Next time this happened, we were evacuating from a hurricane (horrible time to break down). This time, it seemed to be with the battery switch so, after taking that out of the circuit, all was good again. Later, at home, I found it wasn’t the switch but another bad crimp on a lug attached to the switch.

I purchased enough cable lugs and a hydraulic cable crimper and I re-crimped every one in the battery box, replacing the ones I didn’t like. Next time it was in for service at Freightliner, I asked them to check and/or crimp all the other ends that I couldn’t get to. They checked them but said, the chassis leave the factory with one end of the cables connected to the starter, etc. and the other end is cut long with nothing on it. The coach builder routes the cables into the battery box and crimps the lugs on.

I’ve had no problems with this since.

[SPCF]

I just checked the cables and they "look" OK at the Battery.
I will be doing some more testing on each cable with the engine running, it may be easier to find if one is the culprit.
Eventually I will find the problem and be sure to report back the solution.


As "srappleby" said.... very un-nerving and down right dangerous



Any other ideas are very welcome.



Thank you all for the ideas.

[bnyosemite]

This happened to me several times in my 2015 and it finally stopped dead several years ago. It was towed to Freightliner of Savannah. They found that the battery disconnect switch was faulty. I had looked at the switch several times and saw nothing wrong, damage was not obvious until that final day when it was removed. They wired it directly together as a switch could not be obtained for several days. No problems after that. I’ve never replaced the switch as my unit is always connected to shore power if I’m not moving and I have no need for it. I never want to experience that kind of terror again and I’ll never trust another switch.

I’ve read of this in multiple posts. It’s the switch. Get rid of it now before it kills you.

Freightliner of Savannah did not charge me. Thank you Jay Youmans, Service Manager.

[bnyosemite]

My original post:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...re-164097.html

[Filos Hippos]

Originally Posted by bnyosemite

They found that the battery disconnect switch was faulty.

Could some one please post a picture of this faulty switch?

Is it the red/green item you need to turn to operate?

If it hasn't been changed on my Legacy 340 I will replace it with a proper quality item or just by-pass it.

Thanks in advance!
F.

[ScottBrownstein]

I had exactly the same problem with my 1997 Bounder when driving down 95 at 60 MPH. Engine stopped, panel went dead...pushed the battery boost switch and it all started up again. However I really couldn't drive down the road with my finger on the switch so I started the generator which also fires the isolation solenoid in the battery control center and then proceeded to drive to my destination for another 3 hours...without my finger on the switch.

Next morning it wouldn't start so I started poking around under the hood, messing with battery cables, etc. All of a sudden I heard the dash fan start when I shook a cable and it turned out to be an almost invisible crack in the engine battery positive cable lug. Fixed that and never had it again.

Now, on that rig, the starting battery went to the BCC but only for charging. The dash doesn't go dead when a starting relay fails, it goes dead when there is no 12 volt to the engine. Check the cables...including the ground points. Follow the 12 volt chassis positive and make sure it doesn't go through a disconnect switch, my current rig doesn't have a disconnect for the starting battery but only for the house bank. If it does, move the out lead to the in lug and see if you problem goes away.

If it happens again, try the boost as it saved the day for me.

[bnyosemite]

Originally Posted by Filos Hippos

Could some one please post a picture of this faulty switch?

Is it the red/green item you need to turn to operate?

If it hasn't been changed on my Legacy 340 I will replace it with a proper quality item or just by-pass it.

Thanks in advance!
F.

I don’t have it anymore but it looked similar to this:

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...y2lxQ&usqp=CAU