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Old 08-07-2022, 04:45 PM   #1
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Using 2) 30 amp outlets

The pedestal at our current site doesn’t have 50-amp but, instead, two 30-amp outlets, each on their own breakers. Plenty of experience using a “dog bone” adapter on a single 30-amp power pedestal. It splits this power to both circuit legs allowing 30-amps for one, or the other, leg but a total load of only 30 amps.

Can I, using the right adapter, utilize both 30-amp outlets for my rig SAFELY, and in effect, have 120-v, 30-amps on each leg of the incoming power cable, for a total of 60 amps, and allow both a/c units to run?

Thanks,

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Old 08-07-2022, 05:05 PM   #2
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Yes. Absolutely. You can make an adapter… or there are several on the market pre-made.

The key is that each hot be on separate legs of the service. As long as (with adapter) you have 125v leg 1 to neutral and 125v leg 2 to neutral…. AND 250v hot to hot… you’re good to go.

My RV is plugged in to one, using the adapter, right now.
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Old 08-07-2022, 06:03 PM   #3
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Here is one such adapter on Amazon...
Click image for larger version

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Old 08-07-2022, 09:02 PM   #4
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Ahhh, gotcha. So meter the 50-amp end and it should appear as a normal 50-amp outlet except I’ll have 30-amps for each side of the elec distribution panel and each a/c, right?
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Old 08-07-2022, 09:09 PM   #5
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Ahhh, gotcha. So meter the 50-amp end and it should appear as a normal 50-amp outlet except I’ll have 30-amps for each side of the elec distribution panel and each a/c, right?
Yes correct.

Also worth noting that for this to actually help with your desire to run 2 AC units, each unit should be on opposite legs. Most RVs are wired like this/properly…. But i did have a toyhauler one time that had both AC units on the same leg. Not an issue when plugged in to actual 50 amp service, but using the adapter or running on the on-board Onan tripped breakers until i figured out it wasnt set up properly from the factory. I relocated 1 AC unit to the other side and all was well again.

Second thing worth noting… due to the fact that your EMS (energy mgmt system) will see 250v across the legs, it will believe you have 100 amps available instead of the 60 amps you really have. It may allow more than 30 amps on one leg rather than shedding a load. You’ll have to keep an eye on amp usage.
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Old 08-07-2022, 10:42 PM   #6
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Not to nit pick, but I doubt you'd read 250 volts line to line. Depending on the incoming power I'd expect to see either 208 or 240 bolts, or in those ballparks when measuring from line to line.
If you're measuring voltage from line to line and read 0 volts, then both 30 amp receptacles are on the same phase and using two of them as mentioned with a 50 amp adapter will lead to an imbalance on rhe neutral on the pedestal side.
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Old 08-08-2022, 04:56 AM   #7
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Can someone explain or leave me a link to an explanation of the neutral line imbalance?

Even with the post supplying 240 volts the camper/RV only uses and sees two 120volt lines. Normal RV doesn’t use 240volts.

This is not an argument. Just trying to learn.
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Old 08-08-2022, 05:08 AM   #8
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Can someone explain or leave me a link to an explanation of the neutral line imbalance?

Even with the post supplying 240 volts the camper/RV only uses and sees two 120volt lines. Normal RV doesn’t use 240volts.

This is not an argument. Just trying to learn.
On a 125/250v 4-wire circuit, the neutral is shared when the circuit is picked apart to create 2 125v outlets.

When the two hots are on opposite legs, the neutral carries the difference between the legs. Say for example the leg 1 hot is being asked for 22 amps, and leg 2 hot is being asked for 18 amps…. The neutral would carry only 4 amps.

If wired incorrectly and the hots are on the same leg, the neutral would be additive. Carrying 40 amps…. Overloading the neutral - cooking the unprotected wire.
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Old 08-08-2022, 08:16 AM   #9
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Can someone explain or leave me a link to an explanation of the neutral line imbalance?

Even with the post supplying 240 volts the camper/RV only uses and sees two 120volt lines. Normal RV doesn’t use 240volts.

This is not an argument. Just trying to learn.
This is one of my favorite links, and one I point members to a lot. It explains in simple terms 50 amp vs 30 amp RV service, and the neutral in a 120/240 volt split phase system.

https://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter3.php
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Old 08-08-2022, 09:01 AM   #10
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110v-120v-125v-220v-240v-250v

People post numbers all over the place for nominal voltages.

According to all the electric companies that serve our area of the US, the voltages on each leg of a standard residential service is built to serve 120v. (+- 5%) So.. that could be anywhere from 114v to 126v at any given time.

I read where the 110v reference carried over from Edison's original 110v DC system.

I don't believe any voltages between 110v and 125v are unfavorable but I know for a fact it confuses non-electrical folks when you tell them to look for 125v on a leg and they wind up reading 114v, thinking they then have an issue.
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Old 08-08-2022, 09:02 AM   #11
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The linked article is very readable especially how a "50 amp" RV should be wired to keep the electrical loads balanced -- both AC units on one side of the circuit is negligent manufacturing.

-- Chuck
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Old 08-08-2022, 09:11 AM   #12
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110v-120v-125v-220v-240v-250v

….I don't believe any voltages between 110v and 125v are unfavorable but I know for a fact it confuses non-electrical folks when you tell them to look for 125v on a leg and they wind up reading 114v, thinking they then have an issue.
Especially when the side of their RV has a sticker on it saying (paraphrased) “Use 125/250V 60hz 50 ampere supply”

As the grid has modernized, the “nominal voltage” referred to in documentation has increased as well… Despite the fact that you hear all the time, “I need a 220 outlet” for their welder or dryer.
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Old 08-08-2022, 09:21 AM   #13
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Especially when the side of their RV has a sticker on it saying (paraphrased) “Use 125/250V 60hz 50 ampere supply”



As the grid has modernized, the “nominal voltage” referred to in documentation has increased as well… Despite the fact that you hear all the time, “I need a 220 outlet” for their welder or dryer.
Here's mine...(30a shore power supply)Click image for larger version

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Old 08-08-2022, 09:23 AM   #14
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Here's mine...(30a shore power supply)Attachment 277621
You do not have a 50 amp RV - which is the subject of this thread.
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Old 08-08-2022, 09:43 AM   #15
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Yes. Absolutely. You can make an adapter… or there are several on the market pre-made.

The key is that each hot be on separate legs of the service. As long as (with adapter) you have 125v leg 1 to neutral and 125v leg 2 to neutral…. AND 250v hot to hot… you’re good to go.

My RV is plugged in to one, using the adapter, right now.
This is not really an issue as the RV and 50amp cord are designed to carry 50 amps on the neutral. With this adapter you have a potential to have 60 amps on the neutral which is slightly over loaded. However to do this you would need to be pulling 30 amps from each outlet which I doubt if it is possible in regular use. This would also need to be over an extended period to possibly be an issue.
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Old 08-08-2022, 09:43 AM   #16
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You do not have a 50 amp RV - which is the subject of this thread.
I know that...just solidifying the 110v-125v nomenclature that you mentioned was on the side of an R/V.
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Old 08-08-2022, 10:41 AM   #17
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This is not really an issue as the RV and 50amp cord are designed to carry 50 amps on the neutral. With this adapter you have a potential to have 60 amps on the neutral which is slightly over loaded. However to do this you would need to be pulling 30 amps from each outlet which I doubt if it is possible in regular use. This would also need to be over an extended period to possibly be an issue.
It’s not the 50 amp RV cord that is the potential problem… It is the adapter wire and connector/plug that are only rated for 30.
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Old 08-08-2022, 10:42 AM   #18
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I know that...just solidifying the 110v-125v nomenclature that you mentioned was on the side of an R/V.
Gotcha
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Old 08-08-2022, 11:11 AM   #19
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It’s not the 50 amp RV cord that is the potential problem… It is the adapter wire and connector/plug that are only rated for 30.
The adapter needs to have 2 30 amp rated wires running from the 2 30A plugs to the 50A outlet. If the adapter could only safely handle 30 amps it should not be made at all. If one 30amp outlet had an open neutral there could be an issue but a failure at some point can often cause other issues
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Old 08-08-2022, 12:44 PM   #20
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Residential voltage in the USA and Canada is nominal 120 / 240 volts AC. It can be higher (125/250) or lower(115/230) out of the wall -- or out of the power pole at a camp ground -- without harm or even consideration. Low voltage compensators like the Hughes AutoFormer don't react until voltage drops to 113vAC. Larger variance should be investigated.

As most know campgrounds are notorious for much lower voltages in the summer due to massive demand in a small area. High voltage is essentially unknown other than tampering with the wiring or faulty installations.

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