2017 grey wolf 26dbh

[JRad]

I have had my 26dbh for about three months. I really like the layout and the look of the trailer but I have had some issues.
1 the slide out was getting stuck and I had to have a mechanic come out to work on it. The module that controls the slide motors had to be reset and it still has some issues when coming in. It usually takes two or three try's of back and forth to get it to come in.
2. I have two new interstate 12v batteries running in conjunction. If left on the trailer when being stored they drain in three days. Dealer said that is normal????? They said I need to install a kill switch or unhook them every time.
3. The lock for the main door gets stuck and I am only using the dead bolt lock because it is a pain.
4. When it was delivered to me in CA the water pump was not working properly. After looking around found the clamp to water line from pump was loose and was sucking air.

any feedback would be appreciated.

[doc73]

Originally Posted by JRad

I have had my 26dbh for about three months. I really like the layout and the look of the trailer but I have had some issues.
1 the slide out was getting stuck and I had to have a mechanic come out to work on it. The module that controls the slide motors had to be reset and it still has some issues when coming in. It usually takes two or three try's of back and forth to get it to come in.
2. I have two new interstate 12v batteries running in conjunction. If left on the trailer when being stored they drain in three days. Dealer said that is normal????? They said I need to install a kill switch or unhook them every time.
3. The lock for the main door gets stuck and I am only using the dead bolt lock because it is a pain.
4. When it was delivered to me in CA the water pump was not working properly. After looking around found the clamp to water line from pump was loose and was sucking air.

any feedback would be appreciated.

If it's under warranty get the slide looked at now before it runs out. If it goes it will be a pain.

Normal for it to drain. I use a battery tender while stored. It will drain because of the propane detector (like a smoke detector for propane leaks) . Also the radio will drain for its memory.

What is binding up? My keyless lock would bind up from the factory. I took off the striker and took a bit off it and opened up the hole to allow for a bit more wiggle room in the striker area.

[doc73]

Also with the swintec slides (has the metal tracking along the side walls of the slide) they need to stay syched. To do this run the slide out all the way and hold the button for 5 seconds so both sides can catch up with each other. Do the same when bringing it in. Do this all the time a d avoid bringing the slides partly in or out.

[Rich84]

I have a 2017 26dbh as well. We've had multiple issues, too. The main one wad the slide out pinching off our main 12 volt supply line and leaving us with no power at all. Then, the walls started to seperate from the framing... the whole tongue is rusted, the ceiling vent in the bedroom fell off going down the highway, lots of sawdust falling from everywhere anytime we tow it... they just seem cheap

[MNtraveler]

I don't know that 3 days drain is normal, but this switch will make a huge difference. With this properly connected (to cover both batteries' negative cables where they come together), there will be NO active drain and only slight residual internal declining voltage.

WirthCo 20128 Battery Doctor Battery Disconnect for Side Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQFWLY..._TXi3ybBXYGTM5

[leonards]

I installed a battery disconnect switch on my batteries.

[kfcflores]

I also installed a bAttery disconnect.

[Grimrefer68]

Originally Posted by leonards

I installed a battery disconnect switch on my batteries. Attachment 133445

Where did you find the jumper wires to make the install? I have my battery disconnect switch on order but don't have the cabling to complete the task.

[kfcflores]

Originally Posted by Grimrefer68

Where did you find the jumper wires to make the install? I have my battery disconnect switch on order but don't have the cabling to complete the task.

You have to order an extra battery cable from amazon or eBay. Or get at local auto parts store.

[Grimrefer68]

Originally Posted by kfcflores

You have to order an extra battery cable from amazon or eBay. Or get at local auto parts store.

I will have to take a look when I get my switch in the mail.

[leonards]

You can get the cables from either of those places, make sure it's the same gauge wire. Your RV dealer would give a piece of wire to complete the task.

[MNtraveler]

The battery disconnect switch has made a huge difference in stopping the passive drain from our batteries. I just want to caution anyone thinking about installing a disconnect switch to investigate carefully the range of switches that are available and the manner of connection to your battery.

The ones shown above are external to the battery and look pretty much like the wall switches installed in many RVs. That's fine if you can do it that way. There are other types which connect directly to the battery terminal and may be better suited to being attached within the typical RV battery compartment.

The basic types of 12V battery terminals are the "SAE post" type which consists of a post to which the battery cable is clamped, and the "General Motors type" also known as "side-post battery terminals" which have threaded fittings on the side of the battery.

The complication on some RVs, like ours, is that they use an SAE post battery terminal in combination with threaded fittings for some or all of the battery cables. For this reason, we ended up needing a side-mount (GM type) battery disconnect switch that actually fit on the threaded fitting on the TOP of the battery.

The type I ended up using that has worked very well is this:

WirthCo 20128 Battery Doctor Battery Disconnect for Side Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQFWLY..._Qh94ybKQXYNZS

I first tried using this screw-on and -off type which many people have posted on this forum. I had tremendous difficulty with this because of the tight battery compartment on the RV. The amount of torque exerted by the battery cables (because they are bent and trying to unbend themselves) caused the two parts of the switch (basically the top and the bottom...) to twist apart. This resulted in arcing and sparking when opening or closing the screw switch. Also I could never be sure it would stay off because of the twisted components essentially being in constant motion in a moving vehicle (say 1/16" clearance between the two components at best).

Docooler Battery Terminal Link Switch Quick Cut-off Disconnect Car Truck Auto Vehicle Parts (Battery switch 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJMDTH4..._Pj94ybW0AFXM1

I even tried super-gluing the two components together but could not get them to stay attached. The torque of the battery wires quickly broke the glue. I ended up asking for a refund, which the Amazon seller in China gave me after a couple of email exchanges and a nudge from Amazon.

[Grimrefer68]

. Got the job done. Works like a champ.

[kfcflores]

Looks good

[Grimrefer68]

Thanks it was a trial and error. I had to rethink the placement after the first attempt was a failure.

[leonards]

Great job, you'll notice the difference

[lozki]

You also can put the discount switch in the frame that's why they have the holes in the front by the battery's.