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Old 06-13-2020, 09:07 AM   #1
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Bathroom door wont close

I have a 19 alpha wolf. The both room door hits at the top and is hard to close. I have tried to shim it. I even replaced the hinges. The gap on the hinge side is tight at the bottom and open at the top. The only thing i can figure is to shave the door. Any thoughts?

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Chris
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Old 06-13-2020, 09:10 AM   #2
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Shave very light or you will hit "Cardboard" filler! Have you leveled the trailer? Youroo!!
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Old 06-13-2020, 09:41 AM   #3
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This has been an ongoing problem. Trailer leveled. All good there. I think i only need to shave about 1/4”
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Old 06-13-2020, 12:18 PM   #4
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Before you trim the door, check the moulding where the door is hitting. That can come loose reducing the size of the opening. If that's the case, you may be better off fixing that rather than trimming the door.

That's what I'm dealing with right now with my bedroom door.
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Old 06-13-2020, 12:40 PM   #5
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Sounds like the factory guy tried the old have Bubba hang from the door to bend everything a little. Did not work.

Fitting a door to a hole is tough.

If the trailer is level look to see if the frame above the door is out of level. Likely the door frame and trim is goofy.

Path of least resistance is likely the carpenters tool that belt sander. Be careful. Most finish carpenters have scars on their lower arms from those sanders. When you get complacent they get you.
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Old 06-13-2020, 01:40 PM   #6
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I trimmed many doors, mostly solid oak. Hollow are the same, if all you need is 1/4 from the top a table saw and helper to feed is fast and easy.
The dood frame or trim is usually the problem.
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Old 06-13-2020, 01:45 PM   #7
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Rehang the door

If your bathroom door is like most it has lots of space at the bottom. I would seriously consider removing it and lowering the hinges 3/8s of an inch. This would insure the integrity of your door and fix the problem. Good luck.
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Old 06-13-2020, 03:01 PM   #8
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Need better description

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisMoore View Post
I have a 19 alpha wolf. The both room door hits at the top and is hard to close. I have tried to shim it. I even replaced the hinges. The gap on the hinge side is tight at the bottom and open at the top. The only thing i can figure is to shave the door. Any thoughts?

Thanks
Chris
Doors don't grow. If it was good when it left the factory and is rubbing now, something has likely changed, and it's not the size of the door.

The solution to this problem varies depending on where the door is hitting. Please answer the following questions:
  • Is the door rubbing on the TOP edge or the top of the SIDE edge?
  • If the TOP edge, is it rubbing close to the hinge end, the latch end, or all the way? How much gap at the end where it doesn't hit?
  • If the SIDE edge, does it rub at the top, bottom, or all the way? If it rubs at only one end, how much gap is there at the other end? Are there corresponding gaps at the hinge end? How much?
There are a dozen old carpenter tricks but anyone who gives you suggestions without knowing the answers to these questions is just guessing.
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Old 06-13-2020, 03:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
Doors don't grow. If it was good when it left the factory and is rubbing now, something has likely changed, and it's not the size of the door.

The solution to this problem varies depending on where the door is hitting. Please answer the following questions:
  • Is the door rubbing on the TOP edge or the top of the SIDE edge?
  • If the TOP edge, is it rubbing close to the hinge end, the latch end, or all the way? How much gap at the end where it doesn't hit?
  • If the SIDE edge, does it rub at the top, bottom, or all the way? If it rubs at only one end, how much gap is there at the other end? Are there corresponding gaps at the hinge end? How much?
There are a dozen old carpenter tricks but anyone who gives you suggestions without knowing the answers to these questions is just guessing.
You beat me to it Larry..........

He should have approximately 1/8" gap on both sides top to bottom and at the top of the door.
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Old 06-13-2020, 04:31 PM   #10
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Thats making a bold assumption that it was correct from the factory...
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Old 06-13-2020, 05:23 PM   #11
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Would suggest that you not do anything until you are absolutely sure your rig is level.
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Old 06-13-2020, 05:30 PM   #12
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Alright guys. A little more info. The latch side jam is all tight. I have had the hinge side jam off and tried to shim it. Made it good for a trip. Then went even worse. So i took the shims out and replaced hinges. Still running at the top side. Here are the dimensions. Touching at the top. About 1/8” gap at bottom.

Hinge side.
Top 3/8”
Above middle hinge 3/16”
Below middle hinge 1/8”
Bottom 1/4”.

It seems like the hinge jam is all jacked up. I’m at a loss. That’s why i figures best to shave the door
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Old 06-13-2020, 06:57 PM   #13
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Maybe try driving it around for a bit and let things settle. When I bought my new trailer last fall, the door to the bedroom was binding really bad at the top. It's settled down.
If you need to shave, Id say take off the edge trim and shave the jamb instead of the door. Not much wood on that door... Jamb is all wood though under the plastic...
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Old 06-13-2020, 07:01 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Falconer View Post
Maybe try driving it around for a bit and let things settle. When I bought my new trailer last fall, the door to the bedroom was binding really bad at the top. It's settled down.
If you need to shave, Id say take off the edge trim and shave the jamb instead of the door. Not much wood on that door... Jamb is all wood though under the plastic...
Problem there is the mess it would make.
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Old 06-13-2020, 10:26 PM   #15
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Top hinge is sprung

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisMoore View Post
Alright guys. A little more info. The latch side jam is all tight. I have had the hinge side jam off and tried to shim it. Made it good for a trip. Then went even worse. So i took the shims out and replaced hinges. Still running at the top side. Here are the dimensions. Touching at the top. About 1/8 gap at bottom.

Hinge side.
Top 3/8
Above middle hinge 3/16
Below middle hinge 1/8
Bottom 1/4.

It seems like the hinge jam is all jacked up. Im at a loss. Thats why i figures best to shave the door
If I understand you correctly, there's a gap at the top of hinge side. This means the top hinge is sprung.

I have seen this in commercial buildings where some fool wants to hold a fire door open and wedges a book between the door and frame. The door stays mostly open, but the strength of the door closer actually bends those big commercial-grade hinges. The huge leverage of the door (with pivot right by the frame) actually pulls the barrel away from the frame and away from the door so that when the door is closed and the two plates are parallel, instead of touching, there is a 3/16" gap between them.

I am guessing that some workman wedged something in the door near the top hinge and pulled the door shut, springing the top hinge and springing the center hinge by half as much.

This technique works for the commercial doors. If you can remove the pin from the hinge, it will work for you. Otherwise, see below.
  • Remove the pin from the top hinge.
  • Using a vise-grip pliers, successively bend each barrel that's attached to the frame part and bend it towards the frame about 3/16".
  • Using a vise-grip pliers, successively bend each barrel that's attached to the door part and bend it towards the door about 3/16".
  • Now remove the pin from the middle hinge and place the pin in the top hinge.
  • The door should close perfectly but the middle hinge barrels won't line up.
  • Using a vise-grip pliers, successively bend each barrel that's attached to the frame part and bend it towards the frame about 3/32".
  • Using a vise-grip pliers, successively bend each barrel that's attached to the door part and bend it towards the door about 3/32".
  • The middle barrels should now line up and you can replace the middle pin.

If your hinges do not have removable hinges, use the following procedure:
  • Remove the top hinge.
  • Place the frame side in a vise. Using a vise-grip pliers, bend the frame-side barrels toward the frame side plate.
  • Place the door side in a vise. Using a vise-grip pliers, bend the door-side barrels toward the door side plate.
  • Remove the middle hinge.
  • Install the re-formed top hinge. The door should close correctly.
  • Perform the same bending operations on the middle hinge but only bend about half as much as you did on the top hinge.
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:46 AM   #16
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I pulled the hinges and straightened them. The top one bent again. Replaced them. This is how they are now. Something is out of whack.
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Old 06-14-2020, 10:43 AM   #17
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Hinge side

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Originally Posted by ChrisMoore View Post
I pulled the hinges and straightened them. The top one bent again. Replaced them. This is how they are now. Something is out of whack.
These hinges are not mortised. They are simply screwed to the frame.
If the gap on the hinge side is wider at the top than the bottom, it has to be the hinges.

It occurred to me last night that fixing these hinges is much easier than I suggested. All you really need to do is close the hinge (door closed position) and drop it into a vise so the plates are in the vise and only the barrel is above it. Then close the vise tightly. Your hinge is repaired.

Now, based on what you have stated about new hinges, please answer Yes or No to the following questions:
  1. Does anyone drape towels or clothes on the top of the door?
  2. Is it possible that someone closes the door with clothes or towels on top of the door or spilling into the hinge side?
  3. Do you have one of those awful over-the door clothes hanger?
  4. Do you have a child that likes to grab both door knobs and swing on the door?
  5. Do you leash a pet to the door?
These hinges are really soft and it doesn't take much to spring them.
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Old 06-14-2020, 10:48 AM   #18
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I hope this is not the case. My bathroom door wouldn't latch, I kept adjusting and fiddleing with it. We took trailer in for new floor, when factory took off the floor they found a cracked frame. They welded and replaced floor. Now door fits and closes well.
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:08 PM   #19
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On my 2015 Dynamax DX3-37RB, they nailed up the trim pieces BEFORE they hung the door! I discovered this when, after the door started to sag, I tried to tighten the hinge screws. That didn't work (the top hinge screws spun in their holes). When I took the door off (I was going to glue a toothpick in the holes), I found the problem; one of the hinge screws was driven in BETWEEN the door and the trim! The ONLY way that could happen would be if the door trim was installed BEFORE the door was hung. The guys who "built" my DX3 were Moe, Larry & Curly. BC answered my earlier post re OTHER issues and said "I fired those guys". What did NOT happen was that my DX3 NEVER received a PROPER QC check, either before my DX3 shipped OR, at ANY of the several times I returned to the Dynamax factory. Knowing that MLC "built" my DX3 (maybe rationalizing would be a better word than knowing) I would have thought it prudent to due a belated QC check after multiple issues came to light. I guess it just wasn't in the cards.
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Old 06-29-2020, 09:29 PM   #20
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I had the same problem, I moved the striker plate up and now it closes.
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