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Old 06-01-2020, 10:38 PM   #61
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Are you saying that you are unable to lock your brakes with the controller? Others on the forum have had this problem and found the solution to be 1) Pulling the wheel and make sure there isnt grease on the brakes and/or 2) making sure the brakes are adjusted properly ( a common problem for new trailers). Also new trailers often require breaking in, also a common problem requiring burnishing as AndyA states.
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:10 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyA View Post
From the Lippert instructions: "If there is no smoke or the heat has not achieved the achieved the proper temperature ... perform the procedure again"
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Originally Posted by babock View Post
It does not say this in the instructions.
OK... I guess I don't know anything. I will be quiet now.
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:14 PM   #63
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Where are ALL the instructions? Post them.
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Originally Posted by AndyA View Post
OK...
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:21 PM   #64
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Sounds like the Trailer brakes need adjusting . using to much power to get minimal breaking . then you need to get the feel for the TT brakes alone and in conjunction with your TV then set brake controller accordingly . don't expect lock up if the brakes are not adjusted correctly and even then unless on gravel .
What MR.M said. I purchased a new TT this year and the dealer set it up to 6.5, I guess they didn't even try it. It didn't feel right so I would adjust the controller to 10 then manually slid the level and the TT would barely engage (truck wasn't really slowing down). I adjusted the brakes (about 4 clicks) went for a test drive the brakes were much better but adjusted again 2 more clicks and good to go.
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Old 06-02-2020, 12:21 AM   #65
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Where are ALL the instructions? Post them.
I think that the quote is from this document: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001947.pdf

Note that there is an "or/or/or" situation:

Quote:
If there is no smoke or the heat has not achieved the proper temperature or the area can be touched with a hand, perform the procedure again as directed above.
So, there does not have to be smoke - what they are looking for is heat (350-400 deg), and smoke may be a byproduct of the heat.
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Old 06-02-2020, 11:38 AM   #66
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Did you let the brakes cool off between applications?

300 to 400 is not very hot for brakes

When I burnish brakes, I drive at least 2 minutes between those heavy stops. I do the same when I bed in disc brakes on my vehicles.

If you had a lot of smoke, you glazed the brakes or there was grease in there that shouldn't have been.

Is this a brand new trailer?
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Old 06-05-2020, 07:14 PM   #67
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Never really thought about it that much. We have a single axle trailer about the same size/weight. I just creep forward at about 5mph, engage the P2 slider while adjusting gain until the whole rig comes to a stop without locking the brakes. I sometimes micro-adjust after on the road if it feels to grabby, but not much. Seems to work for me and still using original brake pads on 2016 Ram 1500 with 118,000 miles. Guess I'm not to scientific lol.
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Old 06-09-2020, 06:10 PM   #68
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After several decades of pulling trailers of different sizes and weights I have found the best way to determine the correct setting is easy. Applying the brakes in the tow vehicle if the trailer locks up or it feels like the trailer is pulling the tow vehicle to a stop the setting too high. If the trailer feels like it is pushing the tow vehicle than the setting is too low. The breaks on the tow vehicle and the trailer should work smoothly together, that's called proportional breaking. I like to have the trailer feel like it is slowing a little faster than the tow vehicle, but not by much; just so it does not feel like it is pushing or tugging on the tow vehicle.
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Old 08-13-2020, 03:42 PM   #69
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I know this thread is a little old and skimmed it pretty fast, but what kind of vehicle are you towing with? My 2029 F-150 has a setting in the trailer setup menu for brake effort (Low-Medium-High). It defaulted to Low or Medium (I can't remember which). I had the same issue setting the gain on my brake controller until I changed this setting to "High".
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Old 08-13-2020, 05:03 PM   #70
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Never heard back from AndyA... since June 2
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Old 08-14-2020, 08:44 AM   #71
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Hopefully he figured something out.
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Old 08-14-2020, 09:01 AM   #72
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He probably figured out that brakes/controllers/TV/trailer combos are not a one size fits all read-it-in-the-manual setup.
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Old 08-31-2020, 12:31 PM   #73
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Lippert has at least one very good video on YouTube about how to burnish the trailer brakes.
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Old 08-31-2020, 12:48 PM   #74
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Lippert has at least one very good video on YouTube about how to burnish the trailer brakes.

I watched that video, I'm thinking riding the brakes for a half mile sounds crazy. I like the "standard" method better.
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Old 08-31-2020, 02:16 PM   #75
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I watched that video, I'm thinking riding the brakes for a half mile sounds crazy. I like the "standard" method better.
Agreed - I did the 40 mph to 25 every mile method myself!
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Old 10-25-2020, 07:59 PM   #76
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I am new to RV'ing and found this thread very informative. Thanks to all who contributed!
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Old 12-31-2020, 11:08 PM   #77
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I guess I don't understand. Why would you want 'grabbing, skidding and whiplash'?
When operating properly, the brakes on the trailer and tow vehicle should operate as one vehicle. If you feel the trailer stopping your truck, that's not right. If the truck feels like it's being 'pushed' by the trailer when you go to stop, that's not right either. (Mountains the exception to being pushed by the trailer )

We had our emergency trailer brake cable come out as we turned a corner at a very slow speed. The brakes did indeed lock up and the trailer and truck came to a very abrupt stop. The thought of those trailer brakes locking up driving down the highway with the truck attached would terrify me. They are only supposed to lock up if the trailer becomes disconnected from the truck.

I'm wondering what made you question the brake setup in the first place if you've driven 2000 miles with no problem.
That breakaway cable is only for... IF the entire trailer comes loose off the hitch or truck chains. It pulls that cable to lock the brakes so the trailer stops. It is called a breakaway switch / breakaway cable.
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Old 12-31-2020, 11:16 PM   #78
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I have to take trailers in to get state safety. They pull that cable and have you pull up, the breaks should lock up. This is a good way of checking if all 4 wheels are working as they may be adjusted incorrectly. Pull the cable and have someone watch wheels on both sides of the trailer when pulling forward, each wheel should lock. Adjust or repair those that don't.
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