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04-19-2019, 04:51 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 117
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Cable booster problem
Hi all,
I ran into a problem with the wall plate booster. I push the button and the green light flickers then turns off. I removed plate and disconnected one cable line the green light turns on. But when I connect it back it turns off. I did replace the 15amp fuse that was blown. Prior to this it been working fine like it’s supposed to. Any ideas, thoughts or as to why this cable line shorts it. Does the wall plates go bad? Thanks
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FR3 30DS
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04-19-2019, 04:51 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 117
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Some pics  
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FR3 30DS
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04-19-2019, 05:16 PM
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#3
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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I had a problem with my OTA booster a couple years ago. I was loosing signal from the antenna as long as the plate was in the wall. When I took the plate and let it lay where the coax cables were in line with the connectors it would work fine. There was a problem with the solder joints or printed circuits. I replaced the booster and all is well. You can get the booster plate from Camping World or any RV dealer. Mine has the Satellite and TV connections and because no one in my area had the same one I needed I had to get mine from Amazon. BTW, that booster is a power injector/splitter/cable TV bypass. The amplifier/booster is in the antenna head on the roof.
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Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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04-20-2019, 05:21 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Do you know which coax you removed?
It's possible that the antenna booster is shorted in the antenna if that's the coax you removed.
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin! 
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04-20-2019, 08:21 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 117
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After looking online and schematics of the coax. The cable I removed was the one going to the antenna. So does that mean the antenna is bad? Or the face plate went bad? Is that called the booster?
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FR3 30DS
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04-20-2019, 09:13 PM
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#6
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonards
After looking online and schematics of the coax. The cable I removed was the one going to the antenna. So does that mean the antenna is bad? Or the face plate went bad? Is that called the booster?
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The actual amplifier or booster is in the antenna head on the roof. The circuit board on the wall plate is a combination power injector/splitter/cable TV bypass.
As Bama Rambler said the coax could be shorted at the antenna head or may be even a bad crimp on the coax at the antenna head or the injector board. If you have access to another coax long enough to from reach the antenna down through the door to your injector board you can try to see if you get good reception.
My guess would be a bad crimp on the coax connector on either end of the cable as it is a common problem with coax cables.
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Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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04-20-2019, 09:52 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,651
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Here is an excerpt from the Winegard manual for a wall plate power supply. May be applicable.
RV WALL PLATE/ POWER SUPPLY
This unit is equipped with a polyswitch, (current limiting device), which will shut down +12VDC if there is a direct short between antenna and power supply. Green indicator light will not light. Once short is eliminated, device will reset itself in approximately 2 minutes.
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04-20-2019, 10:46 PM
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#8
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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I found that my Furrion AM/FM/CD/DVD player/receiver antenna wire was coaxed in to the roof TV antenna through a splitter inside the entertainment center.
It was shorting out the signal and the instant I unhooked it from the spitter...
I had picture back!
Worth checking out if the other stuff doesn't work out.
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07-24-2019, 08:44 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 117
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Is removing the frisbee easy? Or Does it just unscrew from the base or do I need to break the seal?
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FR3 30DS
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07-24-2019, 08:45 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 117
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Frisbee looking antenna that is
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FR3 30DS
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07-25-2019, 07:49 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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It depends on the antenna you have. Most of them have retaining bolts or screws in the neck and you can take the top part off the base by removing those.
Do you know which antenna you have?
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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07-25-2019, 08:14 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: N. Illinois
Posts: 2,371
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It would be real helpful if we knew what kind of rig you were running and the vintage!
The winegard antennas are a powered antenna and as such, you can and should read 12 vdc at the antenna connection ( from center wire to ground shield/nut) as well as the same voltage at the connection on the plate. On mine the coax, goes through the roof to a "union", another coax goes from there to the antenna. It's sealed to the TPO roofing with Dicor. If that connection has somehow loosened you won't get a signal. How do I know this? Use your voltmeter and wiggle the connections around. You do have a voltmeter don't you?
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2016 Flagstaff 27VRL Emerald
14K Equalizer
2020 Silverado 2500HD CC 4X4 6.6L gas 3.73
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