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Old 07-09-2020, 07:47 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
Center post is usually the backup lights.

12+ is at 1 oclock, Neg is at 5 oclock, when looking into socket on truck.

That is if the receptacle was factory wired.

Aftermarket install is anyone's guess.
Yes, I realized that but the edit button on that post disappeared. Thank you for the correction!
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Old 07-09-2020, 07:52 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
Their math doesn't make sense.

First, do they mean discharging the battery until it's dead?
Next, even if they do, 100Ah expended over 2 days is 50A/day. How do you get 50A/day out of the 120Ah 6v batteries for 5 days?

If they assume 50% discharge, that's 25A/day for the 12V battery. How do you get 25A x 5 days = 125A from a 120A battery bank, even if you allow discharging 100%?
I noticed that too. They were probably trying to say that two 120 Ah 6 volt batteries in series adds up to 240 Ah, which is not true. Two 120 Ah 12 volt batteries wired in parallel would give you the 240 Ah total.

There must be something special about off grid mode. Maybe it turns off a condensation prevention heater?
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Old 07-09-2020, 08:37 PM   #43
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GE 9.9 CU.F DC Fridge

I removed the propane fridge in my Georgetown 270s and installed a GE 9.9 CU.F DC Fridge( $900 shipped). I went from 7 CU.f to 9.9 in the exact same nook. In only one hour from completely warm on my 2 170AH lithiums(another to be added shortly) my freezer is 10 degrees. My freezer stays below zero and the fridge 38 degrees .

On a 70 deg. day I used 60AH in 24 hrs.
On a 85 deg. day with my new dual vent fans installed I used 85AH in 35 hrs.
I love my new fridge with almost 40% more space. I can easily go a few days with no charge but have 640W of solar (4 160W panels) in the garage ready to install.


Don't knock a DC fridge till you try one.
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Old 07-09-2020, 08:44 PM   #44
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... There must be something special about off grid mode. Maybe it turns off a condensation prevention heater?
Does your 3 cf refrigerator even have one?
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Old 07-09-2020, 09:10 PM   #45
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absorption 12v fridge

I never heard of a 12v only absorption fridge. I thought all absorption fridges were propane, 2 way or 3 way.
It would be a poor design.
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Old 07-09-2020, 09:11 PM   #46
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Does your 3 cf refrigerator even have one?
Nope.
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Old 07-09-2020, 09:33 PM   #47
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Vent fans help alot.

Vent fans are super low draw. I got the Titan 120mm dual vent fans that are thermostatically controlled with a probe. Six speed... below 80 deg they are off and then they go faster until over 115 they are on high. On an absorption fridge install the fan on the vents blowing out.

Also a 7 wire charger line won't do much. A dc to dc charger will get the most out of your driving time.
I went with a Redarc 25amp instead of a 40 or 60 amp so it wouldn't over work my alternator. Just use the recommended size wiring.

I have an onboard 5500w generator that I never even use.
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Old 07-09-2020, 09:45 PM   #48
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clarification

I also have my fans blowing out. I just have a place to mount them on a compressor fridge. Also there is a single stock fan inside blowing toward the new fans.
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Old 07-10-2020, 09:26 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
Their math doesn't make sense.

First, do they mean discharging the battery until it's dead?
Next, even if they do, 100Ah expended over 2 days is 50A/day. How do you get 50A/day out of the 120Ah 6v batteries for 5 days?

If they assume 50% discharge, that's 25A/day for the 12V battery. How do you get 25A x 5 days = 125A from a 120A battery bank, even if you allow discharging 100%?


I think they got confused. Yes they would need to be Two 6 volt Trojan T-105 or T-105 plus rated at 225 to 250 12v amp hours. And given they are the manufacturer they are probably using the 20% Lower limit and not the 50% that I like to use to extend the battery life.

Once I get my hands on the unit I plan to run some tests to see exactly what the performance is. Slap the meter on the line to check the draw and a consumption meter to see want it is at different ambients (true nerd). But if their numbers hold true a couple of hundred watts of solar just might cover the consumption on sunny days.

I ran their numbers through a usage Calculator for solar and came up with 39 amp hours which is more like 3 days of no sun taking my Trojans down to 50%. But with solar on the roof I think it should be a lot more practical. We also have a portable ice maker that pulls between 2.5-3.5 amps using an inverter but it only runs an hour or two a day for drink and cooler ice.

My previous 5er had a residential fridge on a 1000 watt inverter. It pretty much would Take my two T-105ís to 50% in 24 hours. Not practical for boondocking.

Having escaped a burning building at 4 am once in my life I have no use for a propane fridge.
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Old 07-10-2020, 10:30 PM   #50
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Keep in mind the specs from sales documents reflect the best case.

When we arrived at your campsite Thursday the temp in the rv was 106 degrees, not 70.

Food was placed invalid fridgefor testing. Not a case of warm beer.

Solar panels are rated at the equator with someone aiming them. Not at a shady campsite in North Dakota. Not mounted flat. 100 watts will seldom produce
25 amps.

Batteries are the weak link.

Go big. A 100 watt solar panel and a 12 volt marine battery is virtually a toy.
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Old 07-16-2020, 08:19 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by 2020wolfpup View Post
We just had our 2020 wolf pup 16bhs out for the first time and I am trying to get the Furrion 12v fridge figured out.

When we picked it up from our dealer they had the trailer plugged in and fridge turned on for us so it was cold and ready to use.. when we got to our friends property we parked the trailer and left it for a bit before coming back to get it off the truck and noticed the fridge was not kicking on and starting to get warm inside. After doing some research I learned these absorption fridges have to be level. So after getting the trailer off the truck and level it was still not cooling and every minute or so sounded like it was trying to kick on but just turned right back off. So I just turned it off. Before we left the next day I turned the fridge back on for travel and off we went, by the time we got home it was definitely working and could tell it was running and cooling but within a few minutes of being in the driveway out of level It stopped working again.
I levelled the trailer and tried turning it on but still just tried to kick on the turned right off.

Is there a certain amount of time it will have to sit level after spending some time out of level for it to work again or will I have to take it for a drive every time this happens to have it bounce around to get it working again?

Any help on this is greatly appreciated as having a fridge not work for a trip is definitely frustrating.

Thanks so much!
New fridges with 12 v COMPRESSORS do NOT need to stay level.

I had one in my custom Puma.......wonderful.
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Old 07-16-2020, 09:44 PM   #52
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My daughter and son-in-law have anew Puma with a everchill 12 volt 10 cuft frig. It is roomy inside. They have two kids and do not plan to do much camping without at least electric hook up. The first trip the frig worked great but I noticed the inside of the pantry cabinet next to the frig. got rather warm. I put my hand on the wall between the cabinet and frig and it was rather warm. It melted the chocolate bars she had stored in the pantry and there was no time the sun was on that side of the trailer. It seems like there is not a vent for the 12 volt frig..
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Old 07-17-2020, 03:37 AM   #53
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Engel

I have never regretted buying my Engel refrigerator freezer. After writing the check that is. It is said that a poor man can only afford the best. Meaning buy it once then youíre done. It consumes .2 to 2.8 amps using a unique swing compressor running a true Freon cycle not cool plate or ammonia. Comes to temp quick and runs 72 hours on two group 24ís.

https://engelcoolers.com/collections...camping-fridge
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Old 07-17-2020, 07:39 AM   #54
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I have a 12v volt fridge and basically gave up running it on two 12 volt batteries. I had no idea that running it while driving was running down the battery and we basically arrived with a lowered battery. I bought a 100 volt solar panel, that helped, but forget it if it's not sunny. I've given up and bought a good cooler. I just came back from a 3 day dry camping trip. Cooler worked out great and I didn't stress over the fridge sucking up the battery.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomkatb View Post
Keep in mind the specs from sales documents reflect the best case.

When we arrived at your campsite Thursday the temp in the rv was 106 degrees, not 70.

Food was placed invalid fridgefor testing. Not a case of warm beer.

Solar panels are rated at the equator with someone aiming them. Not at a shady campsite in North Dakota. Not mounted flat. 100 watts will seldom produce
25 amps.

Batteries are the weak link.

Go big. A 100 watt solar panel and a 12 volt marine battery is virtually a toy.
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Old 07-17-2020, 08:52 AM   #55
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So the tow vehicle charging could not keep up with the demand of the 12 volt frig.?
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Old 07-17-2020, 09:03 AM   #56
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I noticed this is the 10th day of this discussion, and the original poster with the question has not participated since post #1.
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Old 07-17-2020, 10:23 AM   #57
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I noticed this is the 10th day of this discussion, and the original poster with the question has not participated since post #1.
That doesn't mean they're not lurking (I didn't look) or that other participants and readers aren't benefiting.
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Old 07-17-2020, 10:36 AM   #58
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Been meaning to test out the Juice Pack on the roof, saw this pop up in email and just ran out and unplugged the shore power. 10:30 14.2v on the battery, high temp today 85*. I'll run out in a few hours and check the battery voltage. Internal temp of the fridge 39*, freezer -11.
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Old 07-17-2020, 11:00 AM   #59
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So the tow vehicle charging could not keep up with the demand of the 12 volt frig.?
Without some wire modifications, most tow vehicles only provide a trickle charge at best.
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Old 07-17-2020, 11:17 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by markb422 View Post
So the tow vehicle charging could not keep up with the demand of the 12 volt frig.?
Depending on the tow vehicle, you often have to run heavier wire to get any kind of current to keep up with a fridge or charge the battery.
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