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Old 08-19-2020, 11:22 AM   #21
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Just doing some calcs for if and when I get a 12V fridge. In addition to what I already have for battery/solar, I need and additional 100AH of usable battery and 400W to charge it.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:29 PM   #22
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Ahhh, the juice pack. Another one of the systems that didn't work on mine from day one. Not a huge fan of the location of the charge controller. In the front storage area mounted to the front wall. Looks like the used an ice pick to make the holes for the wires,


I parked my trailer as soon as I got it home. After a while I opened the door to the storage area and there was no display on the charge controller. I reached in to touch it and it was so hot I couldn't leave my hand on it. Ends up it blew the 10A fuse between the controller and the battery. A new 10A fuse and a better controller seemed easy and cheap enough. So I did it myself.


Of course the Furrion controller was hardwired so I cut it out..installed my new one and... the panel was fried.

Now I'm waiting on them to decide if I get a new panel because I " modified" it. I don't believe I got 1 minute of use from the dang thing. Furrion doesn't give those panels away either. I suppose if they won't give me a new one I'll buy a 100W panel and "modify" the brackets on the roof so it will fit.


Finding a new panel with those exact dimensions looks impossible.


And the panel on the roof is wired to the battery with a charge controller in between. It will charge the battery even with the disconnect off. It's pretty much like the fancy plug on the side they call " Solar Ready" except they installed the components you would need to use the " Solar Ready" plug.
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Old 12-25-2020, 10:45 PM   #23
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I believe turn switch off. I have a solid volt meter and it stays live with key off. My meter is in forward storage compartment not the one inside the trailer.Not 100%sure but close to it
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Old 01-19-2021, 04:40 PM   #24
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Just a clarification for people who read this later. The 12v vibration refrigerator uses 45 watts. It does not run continuously. It probably runs 25% of the time. That means in 24 hours the refrigerator will use between 250 and 350 watt hours. That is about 1/4 to 1/3 of the amps in a 105 ah battery. The 50w solar should produce 200-250wh. This means you would be 100w behind every day, if you have good sun. The most you should run down the battery is 50%. Half of the 105ah battery is about 600 watts. Using those numbers, and checking the tests online, it shows the refrigerator should be able to run for anywhere from 3 to 6 days. Less if you run other things. If you do not have good sun, or it is heavy clouds out, you may just get 1-3 days.
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Old 01-19-2021, 05:39 PM   #25
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Thats IF you have a good battery that actually has 105 AH. Problem is, the batteries supplied by the dealers are lucky to have even 75ah. On a good day with full sun the Furrion will take the battery down in 6 hours with the 50W panel, forget overnight. What was telling most is that the battery got a full charge in about 7 hours of full sun from the Juice Pack. This is from tests I ran when I first got my trailer with a brand new battery.
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Old 01-20-2021, 10:51 AM   #26
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Just a clarification for people who read this later. The 12v vibration refrigerator uses 45 watts. It does not run continuously. It probably runs 25% of the time. That means in 24 hours the refrigerator will use between 250 and 350 watt hours. That is about 1/4 to 1/3 of the amps in a 105 ah battery. The 50w solar should produce 200-250wh. This means you would be 100w behind every day, if you have good sun. The most you should run down the battery is 50%. Half of the 105ah battery is about 600 watts. Using those numbers, and checking the tests online, it shows the refrigerator should be able to run for anywhere from 3 to 6 days. Less if you run other things. If you do not have good sun, or it is heavy clouds out, you may just get 1-3 days.

Is this with the Furrion fridge or the new Cannon fridge?
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Old 01-20-2021, 10:59 AM   #27
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Thats IF you have a good battery that actually has 105 AH. Problem is, the batteries supplied by the dealers are lucky to have even 75ah. On a good day with full sun the Furrion will take the battery down in 6 hours with the 50W panel, forget overnight. What was telling most is that the battery got a full charge in about 7 hours of full sun from the Juice Pack. This is from tests I ran when I first got my trailer with a brand new battery.

Just a couple points to make. The juice pack includes a 120 Ah maintenance free battery from the factory. If it got swapped out at the dealer for a lesser battery, then the customer got robbed by the dealer. Newer 2021 models are shipping with a Cannon fridge (same as the Everchill). That’s a good thing as people are starting to report problems with the Furrion fridge, like heat and power usage issues.
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Old 01-23-2021, 02:17 PM   #28
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For us pending delivery on the 2021's, can you share details or pics of the battery sent from the factory? I want to be able to show my dealer what I'm expecting.

Thanks!

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Just a couple points to make. The juice pack includes a 120 Ah maintenance free battery from the factory. If it got swapped out at the dealer for a lesser battery, then the customer got robbed by the dealer. Newer 2021 models are shipping with a Cannon fridge (same as the Everchill). That’s a good thing as people are starting to report problems with the Furrion fridge, like heat and power usage issues.
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Old 01-23-2021, 03:24 PM   #29
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For us pending delivery on the 2021's, can you share details or pics of the battery sent from the factory? I want to be able to show my dealer what I'm expecting.

Thanks!
Same here. I can guarantee the battery in mine is NOT 120AH. I have a contact at FR from when I bought mine and asked a question on a hand rail. I will email and find out for sure if I am to have had a 120AH battery installed by the factory.
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Old 01-25-2021, 09:11 PM   #30
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Juice Pack and Battery Disconnect Question

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For us pending delivery on the 2021's, can you share details or pics of the battery sent from the factory? I want to be able to show my dealer what I'm expecting.

Thanks!

Click image for larger version

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I googled that phone number and it directed me to Battery Partners website. I did search for DC27 and two of these three look exactly like the one in my Pup minus the sticker. One says 150 capacity and the other 160. Doesn’t specify if it’s Ah or not, so I emailed them to see if they can share the specs of the Xpedition DC27 battery.

https://battery.partners/search.asp?q=Dc27
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Old 02-05-2021, 09:41 PM   #31
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Attachment 246709

I googled that phone number and it directed me to Battery Partners website. I did search for DC27 and two of these three look exactly like the one in my Pup minus the sticker. One says 150 capacity and the other 160. Doesn’t specify if it’s Ah or not, so I emailed them to see if they can share the specs of the Xpedition DC27 battery.

https://battery.partners/search.asp?q=Dc27
Any updates? I got the exact same battery in my 2021 WP 16BHSBL.
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Old 02-05-2021, 10:25 PM   #32
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My cherokee came with the juice pack and a 12V Mainstream battery. The only spec on the battery was 500 CCA which indicates to me that it is about a 70 AH battery. I have already replaced with two Continental 2GC batteries. Never heard of Mainstream batteries here in Texas.
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Old 02-06-2021, 03:01 PM   #33
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Any updates? I got the exact same battery in my 2021 WP 16BHSBL.

I’ve got no updates.
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Old 03-26-2021, 03:33 PM   #34
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Why would the voltmeter V in the trailer show different voltage than from the PWM in the storage area?
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Old 03-26-2021, 04:42 PM   #35
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It is normal. Pwm controllers always flash the battery with approx .5v more than the battery is at. If battery is 13.8v, the controller will be about 14.4 or close to it. It flashes so fast the voltmeter on the trailer doesn't pick it up. If the battery was discharged than the trailers voltmeter may show more because the controller will be feeding voltage longer.
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Old 03-30-2021, 11:52 AM   #36
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I have an interstate battery in my brand new 2021 304BH. However I am unsure of the specs and I am having issues right off the lot with solar. I don’t think any of its working. It’s been sitting in direct sun since last weekend and the battery is drained.

The Volt meter inside didn’t work when they gave us the walkthrough. Tested the meter by directly connecting to battery. Yup dead. Tested the wires with a meter and I did get a reading from the battery. But again the battery is dead. For the last week the battery disconnect has been off. Am I missing something?

I apologize but this whole solar thing is new to me. I’m just trying to figure out why it appears I am not charging at all.
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Old 03-30-2021, 12:56 PM   #37
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I have an interstate battery in my brand new 2021 304BH. However I am unsure of the specs and I am having issues right off the lot with solar. I don’t think any of its working. It’s been sitting in direct sun since last weekend and the battery is drained.

The Volt meter inside didn’t work when they gave us the walkthrough. Tested the meter by directly connecting to battery. Yup dead. Tested the wires with a meter and I did get a reading from the battery. But again the battery is dead. For the last week the battery disconnect has been off. Am I missing something?

I apologize but this whole solar thing is new to me. I’m just trying to figure out why it appears I am not charging at all.
You need to charge your battery. The output from the solar would take about a month to fully charge a dead battery with the power switch to the camper turned off. It would never charge a low battery it at all with the switch on.

It is pretty easy to test your solar output. First, put a dc voltmeter on the solar panel connector wires on the controller. Mine is under the bed on the forward wall. Bright sun in the middle of the day and you should see somewhere between 14 and 18 volts. While you have the meter connected, switch to the 10 amp control on your meter. That will show you amps. The most it should read is about 5 or 6 amps. FYI: If the sun is steeply angled it will probably read 1 or 2 amps. This makes it obvious that the 50w panel on your roof is not capable of completely charging a dead battery. It would take about a month (5 hours a day at 1amp, 120ah battery). Next, check the battery voltage the same way, using the battery connections on the controller. This will show you 2 things: 1) If the controller is connected to the battery. 2) If you are getting output from the controller. PWM controllers usually only show about 1/2 volt more than what is in the battery. if you find your controller to be faulty, new 10a controllers are very cheap. But, if you need a new controller it may be a good idea to get a 20a or 30a one and splice an additional panel or two into the panel cable on the roof. Parallel, neg to neg, pos to pos. The new flexible panels can be taped to the roof with roofing tape. I use permabond. IMHO, your battery is just too low for the 50w panel to top off.
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Old 03-30-2021, 01:46 PM   #38
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If the disconnect on mine is off, the solar is also disconnected. The only wire running between the battery and the disconnect runs to the breakaway in the nose. Maybe mine is miswired from the factory, but thats how mine is set up. The control box that connect to the panel on the roof has blinkin lights, if the lights aren't blinking, it is either disconnected, or misconfigured.
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:29 PM   #39
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You need to reroute the controller directly to the battery like everyone else's.
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Old 03-30-2021, 06:35 PM   #40
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So you just picked up the trailer and it has a interstate battery in it? No no no. Trailer came from the factory with another type of battery. Read your juice package. I believe it was a deep cycle
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