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Old 10-01-2020, 12:28 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by dwilli1 View Post
What is the "off-grid" setting and where do you access it? Never heard of it but I'd def use it for dry camping.
The furrion ref has seven temp settings - 'off-grid' label in between 2 & 3.
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Old 10-04-2020, 05:54 PM   #22
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Here we are 3 days later and I received Mike Sokol RV guy's refrigerator review of, you guessed it, Dometic's 10cf 12vdc fridge. Actually just a quick glance at this point. But he says he'll do in depth testing in the next couple weeks

https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electric...ic-12-volt-dc/
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Old 10-04-2020, 06:03 PM   #23
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The fridge is a GE dc only 12v model, the juice pack is an oversized battery, ha, and a 50 watt solar panel on board. Thanks for all the advise and suggestions! Going to get another dc27 battery and several hundred watts of solar to try to keep up. I donít mind running the generator periodically but donít want to run it for hours on end.
You might want to look carefully at the battery that was installed by the dealer. It might not be the best and you want to look at replacing it with 2 batteries rather than just adding one.
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Old 10-08-2020, 09:27 PM   #24
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Cool Absorption vs Compressor Frig Debate part 999990000000000

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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
Actually that was my bad. Forgor the 12v only part.

Remembering my old physics lessons like everything that uses energy, refrigeration uses it's share. A residential refrigerator on 120 Vac, cooling a given space,will consume x amount of energy. The same residential refrigerator running on an inverter will consume around 10% more energy due to inverter inefficiencies. A 12 volt only refrigerator, cooling the same space will cut out the inefficiencies of an inverter but still require the same energy to move heat from the inside to the outside.

Absorption type refrigerators get most of their energy from the propane they burn when off grid so less electrical (battery) power is needed. When on grid the boiler is heated with an electric element consuming around 300 watts which would translate to around 25 amps if the power was coming from an inverter.

The inverter is the " fly in the ointment" and with 12v only refers it's taken out of the equation. The energy needed still remains and you need enough battery capacity to provide it.

The good news is that you need 10% less.
Our "standard" absorption frig uses fire to boil ammonia, the "steam" goes to the top of the frig and condenses to chill our box. I may have left out some tricky parts of the cycle. Ammonia is not the best refrigerant.

Our good friend Dan Foss developed a DC sealed unit compressor smaller than a 1/2 volley ball that we used to FREEZE 6 cu' and CHILL 4 cu' while sailing in the tropics. Ice Cream hard and beer cold!! And it used very little DC.
Our friends at Dometic make a compressor 8 cu' Frig/Freezer that fits in the same space as a 6 cu' absorption unit HINT HINT Forest River.
Happy Camping
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Old 10-08-2020, 10:11 PM   #25
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Yes - thank you. Very interesting.
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Old 05-27-2021, 12:33 PM   #26
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Update

We have added two additional 100ah batteries and 200w solar panels that gave us plenty of juice for a four day northern AZ boondocks trip. Being in AZ sunshine abounds so we started with 2 x 100w Renogy panels and a Wanderer charge controller.
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Old 05-27-2021, 02:03 PM   #27
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Won a 12V Frige

Forest River heard our pleas(e)... Our No Bo 19.5 was hatched with a Dometic 8.3 CU' 12 V DC refrigerator... YeaH!! I installed two 100AH LFP batteries and they carried the RV's dc needs for 30 hours while camping until charger was available.

Happy Camping

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Old 05-27-2021, 08:48 PM   #28
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Just for giggles, I left our 16fq off shore power in our driveway just to see how long the battery would last. Only thing running off the 12v were the fridge, antenna booster and radio head. The battery made it though a full day, then maybe 8 more hours before I went to bed. The voltage was about 10.5 then. When I checked the next morning everything was dead. This was after a lot of sunshine. So, no the "juice pack" is not going to keep you alive for much more than a day, day and a half max. Glad I've got a generator!
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Old 05-28-2021, 11:13 AM   #29
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We have added two additional 100ah batteries and 200w solar panels that gave us plenty of juice for a four day northern AZ boondocks trip. Being in AZ sunshine abounds so we started with 2 x 100w Renogy panels and a Wanderer charge controller.

Fellow AZ family here. I just added 200 watts of solar to our rig. Just curious about your battery setup. Is it 200ah of lead acid, AGM, or lithium? I have a single 100ah lithium on order. Hoping thatís enough to power the fridge for 2-3 night weekend trips to the north.
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Old 05-29-2021, 12:46 PM   #30
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We went on our first outing with our 2021 Cherokee 274DBH, boondocks camping with the juice pack and 12v fridge were suspect at best. Thank goodness for a generator, without it we would have been home in a day. Battery goes from a full charge to beeping at you almost dead by morning. Going to need some bigger better batteries and an auxiliary solar panel.
I'm curious how well the fridge/freezer would do if you had it packed heavy with drinks and food prior to heading out on your journey (while hooked up to shore power). Then the ambient temperature should keep the fridge/freezer from cycling on and off so much. Could fill some gallon water jugs with water and freeze them to help keep ambient temperature low in there too.
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Old 06-02-2021, 02:51 PM   #31
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I'm curious how well the fridge/freezer would do if you had it packed heavy with drinks and food prior to heading out on your journey (while hooked up to shore power). Then the ambient temperature should keep the fridge/freezer from cycling on and off so much. Could fill some gallon water jugs with water and freeze them to help keep ambient temperature low in there too.
I've done this very thing the last two weekends. Everything we put in was either already cold or frozen and the fridge had gotten down to temp on shore power. I put a frozen half-gallon jug in the freezer and the fridge (And in the outdoor beer fridge!).

I'll admit that the outside temps were in the 50's but we traveled 7+hrs and when we arrived, the food and beer were still cold. The following weekend we had a 3hr trip and followed the same procedure. On the return trip home, the weather was in the 80's and the food was all perfectly fine when we returned. Ice was still mostly frozen.

I might be inclined to put two jugs of ice in there on long hot days, but I think one in each compartment is sufficient for 3-4hrs of driving in any earthly temp.
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Old 06-02-2021, 02:53 PM   #32
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Question for those who added solar panels...what did you do and how did you hook them up? Someday I hope we live in a state where there is a plethora of public land to camp on so that we can get as close to the primitive camping I once enjoyed. Adding to the battery capacity and solar charging would make the trip a lot less stressful!
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Old 06-02-2021, 04:22 PM   #33
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Question for those who added solar panels...what did you do and how did you hook them up? Someday I hope we live in a state where there is a plethora of public land to camp on so that we can get as close to the primitive camping I once enjoyed. Adding to the battery capacity and solar charging would make the trip a lot less stressful!
The first two RVs I had that I added solar to, I used three 100 watt Renogy panels. On the first one I used the cheap (free from renogy?) zee shaped feet. Sort of a permanent, non-tilting, install. On the second one I bought tilting feet and brackets from AMSolar in Oregon. Those are expensive. Unless you're going to be camping in the winter when the sun is low in the sky, I don't think I would spend that money again. Before I made that decision, I made my 3rd installation on our present RV. This time because of roof layout, I bought two 160 watt renogy panels. That wasn't cost efficient compared to three 100 watt panels, but it's what I chose to do. Again I bought tilting feet from Amsolar. But like I said, I wouldn't do that again.

On the first two installs I had to calculate where to drill a hole through my roof (3/4in?) to come down inside a closet in one, and inside the bathroom near a corner wall in the other. Thank God on the third RV the manufacturer pre-wired for the rooftop solar. They put a two port gland up there to plug the panels into. Of course they bungled the wiring job between there and the batteries, which I had to fix. But that's part of the joy of RV ownership. LOL.

I recommend you get two 100Ah lithium batteries when the time comes. They were close to $1000 each when I bought, now there are $500 each competition.

Hope that gives you some idea.

PS screw the solar panels down anywhere on the rooftop that gives you the least chance of shadows from the air conditioner and other rooftop vents and objects.
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Old 06-03-2021, 08:30 AM   #34
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Thanks Mike! I do have one tiny one up there, so perhaps I should replace it when the time comes and use it's wiring?

I do have a panel from Battery Tender I bought years ago when we owned a pop-up. I don't recall any specs but it is in inaccessible storage. It just has two alligator clips for the battery posts.
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Old 06-06-2021, 09:47 AM   #35
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This might be a good time to re-asses your current 12 v system. Rather than just approaching it patchwork, adding a battery or solar panel, first do a complete inventory of your power needs.



Then decide how often you want t charge batteries. Then address it ONCE.



It may be more batteries, or even different batteries that hold more usable power and charge quicker. Added solar too.



Point is a "patchwork" approach may well cost you more overall than just doing a proper "rebuild" up front.



I would do my "power needs inventory" as if I was going to camp on a cool fall/winter night with a furnace running along with all the rest of the 12 volt power users.



BTW, if you don't have one already, I'd strongly consider a Battery Monitor like the Victron units, shunt type only or the full meal deal with meter and it's added features. Regardless of what path you take, knowing (accurately) where your batteries stand is essential since you have a residential type refrigerator.


Hi, I am a newbie with Wolf Pup 16BHS. We have the same 12v fridge. I am trying to figure out the best way to get more power for fridge and AC. It sounds like a generator, lithium battery or solar panels are my options. What do you recommend?
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Old 06-06-2021, 12:38 PM   #36
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No Bo 19.5 electrical upgrade

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Old 06-06-2021, 01:00 PM   #37
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Hi, I am a newbie with Wolf Pup 16BHS. We have the same 12v fridge. I am trying to figure out the best way to get more power for fridge and AC. It sounds like a generator, lithium battery or solar panels are my options. What do you recommend?
Just know that nearly all campgrounds have limited generator hours. I don't know of any that allow running them overnight.
You need to start with improving your battery setup first. Two 6v golf cart or AGM or LiPo batteries. See how that works for you, along with solar, before buying a generator.
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Old 06-06-2021, 01:14 PM   #38
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Not sure how anyone is paralleling their 12v batteries but this is the best practice. Positive and negative connections are made to different batteries to help equalize charge/discharge. The weaker is still gonna siphon power from the stronger unless they're disconnected from each other which as easy as an Off-1-Both-2 switch at the battery box. Switch the Negative wires to the frame.



I don't consider powering the refrigerator for 30 hours or even 3 days acceptable. I'm sure these can keep the beer cold and ice cream frozen while on the road but I'm doubtful about a holiday weekend in the summer.

Appreciate any experiences just to satisfy my curiosity.

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Old 06-07-2021, 07:01 AM   #39
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Hi, I am a newbie with Wolf Pup 16BHS. We have the same 12v fridge. I am trying to figure out the best way to get more power for fridge and AC. It sounds like a generator, lithium battery or solar panels are my options. What do you recommend?
You mention AC - if you mean the air conditioner, your only choice is a generator. Since the AC runs on AC, all the 12v battery supply in the world won't make it work!

I haven't tried it yet (will be week after next), but I'm thinking/hoping running my generator a couple times a day for an hour or 2 will keep sufficient charge on the battery so that the fridge can keep running. It lasted about 1 1/2 days in my driveway without any charging assistance other than the juice pack.
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Old 06-07-2021, 08:33 AM   #40
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Since you have one of these refrigerators and want to "dry camp" or boondock you're gonna need more batteries and a generator, or more solar panels. A day and a half run for the refrigerator won't do it for me. And I never count on solar power for recharging batteries unless I have plenty of time and sunlight.

Isn't the "juice pack" nothing more than a factory mounted 50w solar panel mounted flat on the roof? Flat is not the optimal angle but is workable. Even the small generators like the Honda EU1000 supply 20x more power than the solar panel.

I've not seen the measured output from these panels in real world camping (or driveway) conditions but on-line sources estimate 3 amps not the 4 amps one would expect in a perfect world. 75% efficiency is commonly quoted. (50w/12v x 0.75 = 3.1a) Guessing the refrigerator is burning thru at least 50 amp hours (since the battery will no longer power it) and replenishing 50 amp hours will require 17 hours of perfect sunlight something not available in a single day. Camper is no doubt burning more than 50 amp hours since the solar panel was in operation during much of the time.

For those looking for a camper avoid the 12v or inverter powered refrigerator if you can: The only 12v power my Roo requires all the time is what's needed to power the logic circuits in the LP refrigerator and the DSI igniter for the water heater and with the slight overhead of the LP detector my requirement is 12 amphours daily something my 40w portable solar panel can usually maintain especially since I can point it at the sun and move it out of the shade where I like to park. My pair of Trojan T125 deep cycles has a capacity of 203 useful amphours.

My very quiet Honda EU1000 kept my battery changed but wouldn't do much else.

If you only camp on sites with shorepower this is all academic but still limits your future choices.

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