Options for improved Cooling in Arctic Wolf.

[Bond_008]

WOW!! I am really really interested in trying this system. We just upgraded to 5th wheel - our 6th rv unit - Cherokee Arctic Wolf 287BH and I gotta say it has the worst airflow/cooling performance of any RV we've owned. I am extremely disappointed in particular to how bad the bunkroom doesn't cool. Ours has the "Racetrack" style ductwork. We have Coleman Mach 15K with cool dump feature for main unit and Coleman Mach 13.5K non-ducted in front bedroom.

I would absolutely get this system and do a review as well because I really think our unit would be the ultimate test...it's that bad!!

Thanks for the info

[dannko]

Originally Posted by Bond_008

WOW!! I am really really interested in trying this system. We just upgraded to 5th wheel - our 6th rv unit - Cherokee Arctic Wolf 287BH and I gotta say it has the worst airflow/cooling performance of any RV we've owned. I am extremely disappointed in particular to how bad the bunkroom doesn't cool. Ours has the "Racetrack" style ductwork. We have Coleman Mach 15K with cool dump feature for main unit and Coleman Mach 13.5K non-ducted in front bedroom.

I would absolutely get this system and do a review as well because I really think our unit would be the ultimate test...it's that bad!!

Thanks for the info

you really have to dig into your ac at the ceiling also to see if it's not drawing in hot air from the roof cavity, and that the ducts are sealed really good. You could possibly be drawing hot roof cavity air and blowing cold air into the roof cavity. Lose/lose situation. If you have one of the plumbing inspection cameras you could probe the ducts to check for leaks, holes, etc...it all adds up

[Bond_008]

Thanks. Got a borescope on the way! I did check seals around all ceiling vents and there was some holes around them that weren't sealed well. resealed with foil HVAC tape. I'll attach pics.

I also checked foam divider in ac unit. Foam divider was fairly well installed. I'd give it a 7/10. Outer foam seal was a little crooked/squished in one place. I added some HVAC tape just as precautionary and slightly re-positioned.

Plenum vents to ductwork were well sealed.

I'll borescope and see what everything in between vents looks like and keep you cats updated!

[Bond_008]

Little hard to see given the light and small mirror, but where there is no foil tape meeting that is a hole leading to attic space. There were many of these around all the vents. I patched up with HVAC foil tape.

Also, notice the holes in the top of the ductwork, I'm assuming a hole saw drill bit caused these. I patched these up too.

Borescope of ductwork is next.

[bclemens]

Bond 008, can you add a signature with your rig on it?

If not, I will get flooded with the "How can Dynamax allow holes in their duct like this?" (as this is a Dynamax sub-forum)

[Bond_008]

Sure, try this. My comment also explained my unit - thread is addressing Coleman Mach compatability with RV Airflow Systems.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by Bond_008

Sure, try this. My comment also explained my unit - thread is addressing Coleman Mach compatability with RV Airflow Systems.

Thank you. That also helps in the responses (and keep the rioters at bay

[Bond_008]

Dropped unit off to dealer yesterday. I borescoped ductwork and found ducting was completely broken in half on two sides above front bedroom. Curious as to what "fix" for this is. BUT, this explains why unit wouldn't cool down below about 88 degrees. Our unit is one month old, bought brand new. What do you think "fix" for this would be? Remove roof? Remove ceiling? Refund? New unit? This is a pretty major problem. Pics uploaded sideways so tilt your head or your computer lol

[Bond_008]

UPDATE: Dealer pulled ceiling down from front bedroom; said there was significant airloss from damaged ductwork. Ductwork was repaired and unit is has much improved airflow throughout and is cooling down like normal. First trip this weekend so we will test it out for ourselves!! Borescope camera was worth $8 - we were able to "self-diagnose" and send pics to dealer which also helped them.

[Bond_008]

***UPDATE***

Dealer installed an RV Airflow System in our main unit. (Our front bedroom is non-ducted). This was the first one the dealer has installed - in fact they didn't know about the product til I mentioned it to them. Everyone is VERY impressed by the results. Airflow significantly improved. We had no way of measuring before or after, but the pressure out of the vents is dramatically better!!!! Only downside is the vent closest to the unit doesn't have good airflow out of it - this is because the air is moving so fast out of the unit it literally passes the vent. All other vents work fantastic. I would highly highly recommend. Our dealer said they are glad to now have an option for poor airflow issues. Thank you to Richard for providing us information that we could relay on to our dealer on this great product!! Our dealer was skeptical, but the results were undeniable!! https://rvairflow.com/

[Bhrava]

Hmm, my 3660 seems to be a bit sluggish on cooling too, especially the bunk room, but considering the vent has a 2" hose, and a 90* bend that is blocked 50% by the vent itself, not surprised. I removed the vent, and cut out half of the pipe so that it could have full flow out, and that seemed to help, though velocity is low to begin with. I have also gone to both units, which are full race track 15K units, and sealed up anything I could see, and found the front unit was partially blocked to the duct work. Helped out, but too late in the season for a full test to see if it keeps it cool when it is 90* in full sun, so next year until that can be tested. If not, then I think doing the borescope may help too.

How did you get the vents off to look inside? I didn't want to damage them.

[Bond_008]

I removed my vents with a tiny flathead screwdriver - wedge just enough bw swivel vent and base that is screwed into the ceiling, then use medium sized screwdriver and twist to pop swivel part of vent off. You may be able to just pry off by hand.

RV Airflow System worked great!!! We only have the main unit ducted. Front bedroom is non-ducted (though I want to change ceiling assembly to convert to ducted) we also have racetrack style but with only one ducted unit it's not enough to really work well. I have installed air block just past vents in bunkroom and just past vents in front bedroom. Ductwork is not "H" style instead of racetrack. This seemed to make a HUGE difference!!!!!! Only downside to RV Airflow system is vent in main area closest to the AC unit doesn't get airflow bc the air is moving so fast it goes right over it!!! Good pressure to the ends though!

[Camper901]

We have a 287bh with factory Colman 15k in main ducted with the blast option. We almost died first trip barely got it below 90

We added a 13,500 to the master bedroom. I have it sealed off to the ducts so it only blows in master.

We can’t hardly use the camper cause the main living will not cool

[Bond_008]

We have been less than impressed with our 287BH. We have service scheduled again this weekend. 4th time at dealer....we have used unit twice. I would def try the RV Airflow System....it fixed one of the issues for us....now back to dealer to fix the other 24 problems we've encountered!!!

[Camper901]

My issue is even with the ac dump open and all doors shut it won’t even cool the living space enough.

I love the floor plan. But it’s not insulated well at all.

We have used it 4 times and happy except the not cool Till dark.


Also we paid right at 40k when they first come out. Now you can find them new for 34k. Meaning ours isn’t worth anything on trade.

I honestly want out of This junky made thing

[Ghost9019]

So the rv air flow system should work in the 3660 suite ?

My second ac that was installed in the bed room they left the shipping brackets in it when they installed as well as the plates.