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Old 03-13-2021, 02:00 PM   #1
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Rate my hitch setup

Hi all,here's my yukon with fastest E2 and a 23dbh.

Everything seems to be pretty nice and level. I do have to raise the tongue jack quite a bit to get the spring arms in. Please let me know what you think of this setup.
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Old 03-13-2021, 02:30 PM   #2
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I have that same brand of hitch, and I can confirm to you that I also have to raise the tongue jack quite a lot to get the arms in. I just raise it a little at a time, and keep trying. I am assuming they gave you that crowbar-looking tool to pry the arms into place. Very handy. I practiced hooking and unhooking at the dealer (they installed the WDH), to make sure I knew what it "felt" like.

Also, one side is slightly easier to get in than the other (needs just a bit less height), so I always do that side first.

I put in earplugs when installing since there is that pretty loud "bang" that is a little uncomfortable. But VERY pleased with the setup. I can go 55 MPH on a two-lane highway, with semi's going the other way at more like 70 MPH. Trailer doesn't even so much as twitch.
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Old 03-13-2021, 05:15 PM   #3
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Yep, so far so good. I'm thinking about removing a washer but I think it's pretty darn well dialed in. I suppose when we load the trailer up, it will be easier to get the bars in. There was a extra steel colar part in the kit. Not sure what thats for but no mention of it in the manual
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Old 03-13-2021, 05:32 PM   #4
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You will sometimes have to raise the tongue quite a bit. I simply hold the bars in my hand and feel when the tension is lessening to slide them on. If I can’t, I get them close then use the supplied bar to get them on. You will get good at it.....trust me....lol
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Old 03-13-2021, 05:48 PM   #5
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I always just get high enough to use the pry bar, then stop. As it is, my TV wheels are just about to go airborne. I usually chock the front wheels...
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Old 03-13-2021, 06:31 PM   #6
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Better than most I see on the road... Thanks for being safe!!
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Old 03-13-2021, 06:50 PM   #7
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Is your brake release cable going over the top and then back under?
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Old 03-13-2021, 09:02 PM   #8
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Looks like the WD is set up well!
The only thing I could suggest is to shorten the chains instead of twisting them. Or, use one of those chain keeper things.
https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/chain-up
If your break away cable does go up then down under the frame, shorten it and add a coil cable to keep it from dragging.
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Old 03-13-2021, 09:24 PM   #9
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Good looking on the brake cable. I'm going to adjust it. I was told to twist them and something about ca state law...
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Old 03-14-2021, 02:35 AM   #10
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Maybe it just the way the pictures were taken but it seems to be a little tongue high in a few of the photos.
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Old 03-14-2021, 06:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captaingeek View Post
Good looking on the brake cable. I'm going to adjust it. I was told to twist them and something about ca state law...
Twisting chains can reduce their capacity. No chain should be twisted even if they aren't used as a safety. I'm not familiar with Cali laws (there are a lot for towing) so I can't speak to the one you reference. Maybe, like here, they cannot be allowed to drag? In any case, shortening the chain is the best way. To find out how many links you can remove, zip tie a couple links together and make as tight a turn as possible. If the zip tie does not break then you can remove that number of links from the end.
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Old 03-14-2021, 07:21 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Cdj8465 View Post
Maybe it just the way the pictures were taken but it seems to be a little tongue high in a few of the photos.
I think it is slightly nose high. I'm going to see if I can adjust the hitch slightly. Do you think a longer drop hitch might be needed? I'm going to take some measurements the next time I move it.
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Old 03-14-2021, 12:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Evil Twin View Post
Twisting chains can reduce their capacity. No chain should be twisted even if they aren't used as a safety. I'm not familiar with Cali laws (there are a lot for towing) so I can't speak to the one you reference. Maybe, like here, they cannot be allowed to drag? In any case, shortening the chain is the best way. To find out how many links you can remove, zip tie a couple links together and make as tight a turn as possible. If the zip tie does not break then you can remove that number of links from the end.
Many states require crossed chains. Twisting them not only weakens them but removes the crossed chain cradle for the tongue to fall onto, vice digging in and yanking things apart.
There are several chain hangers you can use instead.
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Old 03-14-2021, 02:37 PM   #14
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Your setup looks good to me. I also have the same WDH, and also have to jack the combo sky-high to engage bars.

I echo the sentiment about adjusting chains to proper (un-twisted) length (I used double clevis links of the same rating as the chain).

I've installed a few Fastway ZIP breakaway coiled cables with good results.

Lastly, I've found the best indication proper setup, all "measuring" aside, is simply does it "feel" stable/comfortable/confidence inspiring going down the road. I've had my front end feel "light and spongy" even though everything measured level and good, thus indicating I needed MORE weight shifted to the front axle; playing around with tweaking that, I found my "sweet spot" where steering feels the same whether trailer on or off.
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Old 03-14-2021, 02:55 PM   #15
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Looks level ���� Chains crisscrossed ���� The only thing to watch would be your breakaway cable running on trip of the frame rail. All in all looks good! ����
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