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Old 11-08-2018, 02:44 PM   #1
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Winterize Water Heater

I am winterizing today, an inch of snow forecast for tomorrow.



I plan on using the camper in a month or two on a trip to Tennessee and then Florida, so I prefer to use the method to blow out the water with compressed air and use as little RV anti freeze as possible.


I first wanted to bypass the water heater. See attached pic. Sure looks like all 3 faucets are in the open position. Just want to see what you think, why would anybody do this? I bought this camper used a few months ago. I never used the water system because I needed to keep the weight down.



Questions:


1. Where do you get fresh water when you get near your destination?


2. Do I just need to close the in/out valves since the bypass is already open?



3. I am having a hard time getting my hot water heater drain plug back in. It was unscrewed, so the threads may be damaged slightly. Do you know what size tap/die is required? I just want to clean up the threads. I tried a dremel tool with a wire wheel already.


Thanks for the help!
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:47 PM   #2
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I couldn't add a 2nd picture, the upload fails so here it is.
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:52 PM   #3
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Yea, those valves aren't set right for anything. If you want to bypass the WH, turn the top and bottom one both 90 degrees.

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Old 11-08-2018, 02:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
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I couldn't add a 2nd picture, the upload fails so here it is.
All your valves are open. To bypass the heater to winterize you need to close the two valves closest to the heater. To dewinterize and use the heater, you need to open the two valves closest to the heater and close the one in the middle.

All three should never be in the same position.
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:59 PM   #5
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The Anode rod threads are 3/4: NPT. They can be a bit of a pain to get them to rethread in correctly because the rod wants to tilt down causing the fitting to cross thread. You have to hold the socket at an angle to get the threads to start correctly. I usually place a thin nut in the socket behind the rod fitting so that it won't recess into the socket too far.

I prefer to use a pipe tap to clean up the threads, but you have to be careful not to cut new threads, but just chase the ones that are there.

As for the bypass valves , it does appear that the bypass valve is set to bypass and the inlet and outlet valves are set to normal flow. Just turn the inlet and outlet valves 90 and that will bypass the water heater.
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSP View Post
I am winterizing today, an inch of snow forecast for tomorrow.



I plan on using the camper in a month or two on a trip to Tennessee and then Florida, so I prefer to use the method to blow out the water with compressed air and use as little RV anti freeze as possible.


I first wanted to bypass the water heater. See attached pic. Sure looks like all 3 faucets are in the open position. Just want to see what you think, why would anybody do this? I bought this camper used a few months ago. I never used the water system because I needed to keep the weight down.



Questions:


1. Where do you get fresh water when you get near your destination?


2. Do I just need to close the in/out valves since the bypass is already open?



3. I am having a hard time getting my hot water heater drain plug back in. It was unscrewed, so the threads may be damaged slightly. Do you know what size tap/die is required? I just want to clean up the threads. I tried a dremel tool with a wire wheel already.


Thanks for the help!

I don't think the threads are stripped. The weight of the anode not is pulling down and making it difficult to get started. Put a lot of pressure on the bottom with your fingers to get it to go in straight.
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:16 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the help, you all rock!
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:41 PM   #8
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I cannot find any examples online of the way mine is set up - two valves, but one is at the junction of the hot water and the bypass? Have I done this correctly?



Closeup of bottom (cold) valve:



Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Vel
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Old 11-16-2018, 02:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velvethippie View Post
I cannot find any examples online of the way mine is set up - two valves, but one is at the junction of the hot water and the bypass? Have I done this correctly?



Closeup of bottom (cold) valve:



Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Vel

Howdy Vel, your picture links do not work. You probably need to upload the pics to the thread, instead of linking.


This thread has several pics of different winterizing/bypass valves. Can you see if yours is like any of them?


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:55 PM   #10
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I was able to get it sorted out eventually by trial and error, but take a look at this interesting setup:

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Old 11-25-2018, 12:59 PM   #11
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Hi Vel,

It would appear that you are set for the bypass in the picture that you posted.

I would guess that if you turn both the "hot" side and "cold" side valves 90 degrees that would be the flow into the water heater.
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Old 11-25-2018, 01:32 PM   #12
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Also, your anode rod looks like it could be replaced and that might make it screw in a little easier.

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Old 11-25-2018, 01:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velvethippie View Post
I was able to get it sorted out eventually by trial and error, but take a look at this interesting setup:

See page 2 of the attached file. You appear to have option #2b.
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Old 11-25-2018, 02:48 PM   #14
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See page 2 of the attached file. You appear to have option #2b.
Except the center piece is red instead of blue, not that that matters, I guess.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:14 PM   #15
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Except the center piece is red instead of blue, not that that matters, I guess.
Nope. The water doesn't care what color the pipe is.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Except the center piece is red instead of blue, not that that matters, I guess.

It doesn't really matter, is functions the same actually.


With your valve on the blue cold water inlet closed off (handle perpendicular to the line), then no water can enter the tank thus no water can come out either. The valve handle on the crossover line (between the blue cold and red hot) then when turned inline with the crossover line, then will not allow cold water to backflow into the tank via the red hot water line (thus the tank is bypassed)




The other way has the crossover valve diverting the cold water into the crossover line before it gets to the tank (thus shutting off the inlet) and then the valve on the hot water line keeps it from backflowing into the tank (again bypassing the tank)


Both setups accomplish the same thing.
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Old 12-04-2018, 02:06 PM   #17
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I hope to use the camper in a month or so. I try to keep the camper as light as possible when I am towing it. I am going near a popular tourist area where there is a lot of camping during the summer. Are there gas stations that have fresh water to fill up my fresh water tank?
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Old 12-04-2018, 02:39 PM   #18
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Many Flying Js have an RV lane with fuel, water and dump station.
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Old 12-04-2018, 02:47 PM   #19
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Are there gas stations that have fresh water to fill up my fresh water tank?
Not regular gas stations. Some truck stops, like Flying J, may have potable water.
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