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Old 09-12-2018, 01:24 PM   #61
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Be aware there can be two kinds of RV antifreeze chemical compositions.
Propylene Glycol based and Ethanol based.
Read the ingredients or look up the MSDS.
Make sure you buy the propylene glycol based. Costs more, but it is safer and also lubricates gaskets/seals.
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Old 09-12-2018, 10:34 PM   #62
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Be aware there can be two kinds of RV antifreeze chemical compositions.
Propylene Glycol based and Ethanol based.
Read the ingredients or look up the MSDS.
Make sure you buy the propylene glycol based. Costs more, but it is safer and also lubricates gaskets/seals.
What Alben said.
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:22 PM   #63
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I no longer have to 'winterize' since I moved to Yuma, AZ earlier this year...

After all, our 'winter' is basically June through the end of September...around here that is 'The Off Season'!

So winter months everywhere else down here are our summer camping season.

Can't wait!
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:18 AM   #64
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Since this stuff should never be in your water system more that a few minutes anyway the base antifreeze isn't critical although the propylene glycol based does have some benefits concerning seals.

Recall "winterization" is nothing more than getting rid of anything that will freeze and expand to the point of breaking things in the camper. Simply draining the tanks and blowing all the water out of the plumbing does that just fine. Belt and suspenders guys can blow the water out first and then pump the plumbing with RV antifreeze to eliminate any residual water -- and then blow that out, it did its job, why wait to Spring? Leave a bit what's blown out in the drains. After that I reopen all the drains.

My Roo 23ss takes one (1) gallon but I always buy two just 'cuz.

Oh, yeah: Remove any water filter cartridges and either bypass them or cap them. The antifreeze will destroy them and if the empty filter housing is still there it'll suck a quart out of your bottle and waste it. Hot water tank should be bypassed and drained. Disconnect the electric element first so you don't forget. I turn the switch off at the tank and the breaker in the power panel. There's a reason you can walk into to any RV dealer and have the electric heating element "in stock."

The reason this is "RV/Marine: antifreeze is when used in marine engines and water systems it usually ends up in the water supply. Automobile antifreeze is toxic.

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Old 09-13-2018, 09:37 AM   #65
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Since this stuff should never be in your water system more that a few minutes anyway.
I've never heard this. I (and many others) have always left AF in the lines all winter and never had a problem.

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Recall "winterization" is nothing more than getting rid of anything that will freeze and expand to the point of breaking things in the camper. Simply draining the tanks and blowing all the water out of the plumbing does that just fine. Belt and suspenders guys can blow the water out first and then pump the plumbing with RV antifreeze to eliminate any residual water -- and then blow that out, it did its job, why wait to Spring? Leave a bit what's blown out in the drains. After that I reopen all the drains.
I wait until spring because it's much easier to simply hook up my water and run that through the pipes to get all the AF out instead of adding an extra step of trying to blow it all out first. Water does a much better job than air.

In my fiver I have 4 faucets, 2 toilets an indoor shower and an outdoor shower to worry about. If I had to go through and blow out the AF in all of those it would add an extra 1/2 hour to the process. It's all going to get flushed out eventually anyway. Why add more work?
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:24 AM   #66
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Filter

We have a 2019 Roo 233s with a inline water filter. I know when winterizing it needs to be removed before pumping the pink stuff. My question is how do you bypass it? Or does removing the filter cause the water to bypass? I don't want to attempt it and have water spraying everywhere. Thanks
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:09 AM   #67
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Some easy methods to bypass the water filter. I've used all and prefer #1:

1. Get a water filter bypass plate <-- that's a link from your RV dealer. This is a stainless steel circular plate and matching rubber gasket you put on the top of the filter cup after removing the filter.



2. Substitute a short length of PEX pipe between the inlet and output connections where the filter was. Less convenient and may require removing the filter to get at the fittings.

3. Put an empty, capped throwaway plastic water bottle in the filter in lieu of the actual filter. This will use up most of the capacity but not all.

HTH,

-- Chuck
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:36 AM   #68
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I've never heard this. I (and many others) have always left AF in the lines all winter and never had a problem.
I don't doubt it never got cold enough for the water lines to freeze with RV antifreeze. I also suspect you like the taste of RV antifreeze. That taste remained in my system half the summer the only time I left it in all winter years ago.

Air has a freezing temperature of -360.9F (-182.7C) so having the plumbing filled with air ain't gonna freeze unless the trailer is stored maybe on the dark side of the moon.

Pure, undiluted "-50F" (note the quotes) RV antifreeze, on the other hand, freezes at +12F (-11C). Doesn't expand much so it's safe but it's frozen. It will eventually expand. But you don't have pure, undiluted antifreeze in your system unless you pump gallons and gallons thru it. You have a less than 100% mixture with some water remaining.



Again , the goal is to eliminate water not dilute it. Once it's out the antifreeze has no further purpose. Why leave it in there? It needs to come out eventually. Use you compressor to blow it it out if you don't think just filling the system with air offers enough protection without the antifreeze step.

You always wanted an air compressor. Even the Harbor Freight compressors are fine for this and your tires.

I personally prefer to take the least risks so I blow, fill with RV antifreeze, complete my other winterization chores, and then blow the system dry again. Belt and suspenders. Overkill always works -- and there's no aftertaste.

-- Chuck
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:46 AM   #69
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I don't doubt it never got cold enough for the water lines to freeze with RV antifreeze. I also suspect you like the taste of RV antifreeze. That taste remained in my system half the summer the only time I left it in all winter years ago.

Air has a freezing temperature of -360.9F (-182.7C) so having the plumbing filled with air ain't gonna freeze unless the trailer is stored maybe on the dark side of the moon.

Pure, undiluted "-50F" (note the quotes) RV antifreeze, on the other hand, freezes at +12F (-11C). Doesn't expand much so it's safe but it's frozen. It will eventually expand. But you don't have pure, undiluted antifreeze in your system unless you pump gallons and gallons thru it. You have a less than 100% mixture with some water remaining.



Again , the goal is to eliminate water not dilute it. Once it's out the antifreeze has no further purpose. Why leave it in there? It needs to come out eventually. Use you compressor to blow it it out if you don't think just filling the system with air offers enough protection without the antifreeze step.

You always wanted an air compressor. Even the Harbor Freight compressors are fine for this and your tires.

I personally prefer to take the least risks so I blow, fill with RV antifreeze, complete my other winterization chores, and then blow the system dry again. Belt and suspenders. Overkill always works -- and there's no aftertaste.

-- Chuck
We don't drink from our taps, so taste is never an issue.

I take the same belt and suspenders approach as you, minus one extra step. I might spend a few extra bucks putting in 3 or 4 gallons vs 1, but it works for me.
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:51 AM   #70
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If it works it works!

Our Roo has an internal water filter and we don't hesitate to drink from the faucets. Heck we even make coffee with it! Same with the freshwater tank which I sanitize every spring and then fill with good ole city water before we depart.

-- Chuck
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Old 09-13-2018, 12:20 PM   #71
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I also suspect you like the taste of RV antifreeze. That taste remained in my system half the summer the only time I left it in all winter years ago.
Then chances are you didn't get it all out.

I know that you will say that you did get it all out...

But if you tasted it half of the summer...then it is obvious that you still had some AF in the system somewhere.

The first year I 'dewinterized' myself I had the same issue.

Usual suspect spots are in the pipes running to the outside shower...maybe some got into the fresh water tank or water heater...perhaps a little still in the water pump...or even in the low point drains!

When I flush my system I do it at least three times to make sure all of the AF is out.

However, my days of winterizing are over...now I just have to sanitize more often!

Oh yeah...if you sanitize the system first you won't have any AF left, either...

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Old 09-13-2018, 12:31 PM   #72
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Then chances are you didn't get it all out.

I know that you will say that you did get it all out...

But if you tasted it half of the summer...then it is obvious that you still had some AF in the system somewhere.

The first year I 'dewinterized' myself I had the same issue.

Usual suspect spots are in the pipes running to the outside shower...maybe some got into the fresh water tank or water heater...perhaps a little still in the water pump...or even in the low point drains!

When I flush my system I do it at least three times to make sure all of the AF is out.

However, my days of winterizing are over...now I just have to sanitize more often!

Oh yeah...if you sanitize the system first you won't have any AF left, either...

I agree.

I've been winterizing with antifreeze for the better part of 40 years and only once when I forgot to flush/sanitize the outside shower in the spring did I have the taste of antifreeze for a month or so.

But... everyone has their way.

Just remember, blowing out only doesn't remove the water from the pump/suction strainer or guarantee every droplet of water is removed from the faucet valves or the toilet valves and it only takes ONE droplet in these inexpensive plastic faucets/valves.
With the amount of reports we have here every spring from those with toilet valve issues from only blowing out, tells me I'm not posting incorrect information.
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Old 09-13-2018, 12:38 PM   #73
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How easy is it to forget little things like draining the WH for winter ? Look out back at any RV dealer in the spring and you'll usually find a scrap pile of ruptured WH's every season. Dealer I deal with, they replace 20-30 every spring.
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:14 PM   #74
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Do those of your that use air, do you still pour some anti freeze in your traps? Id assume so.
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:47 PM   #75
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I don't doubt it never got cold enough for the water lines to freeze with RV antifreeze. I also suspect you like the taste of RV antifreeze. That taste remained in my system half the summer the only time I left it in all winter years ago.

Air has a freezing temperature of -360.9F (-182.7C) so having the plumbing filled with air ain't gonna freeze unless the trailer is stored maybe on the dark side of the moon.

Pure, undiluted "-50F" (note the quotes) RV antifreeze, on the other hand, freezes at +12F (-11C). Doesn't expand much so it's safe but it's frozen. It will eventually expand. But you don't have pure, undiluted antifreeze in your system unless you pump gallons and gallons thru it. You have a less than 100% mixture with some water remaining.



Again , the goal is to eliminate water not dilute it. Once it's out the antifreeze has no further purpose. Why leave it in there? It needs to come out eventually. Use you compressor to blow it it out if you don't think just filling the system with air offers enough protection without the antifreeze step.

You always wanted an air compressor. Even the Harbor Freight compressors are fine for this and your tires.

I personally prefer to take the least risks so I blow, fill with RV antifreeze, complete my other winterization chores, and then blow the system dry again. Belt and suspenders. Overkill always works -- and there's no aftertaste.

-- Chuck
If you had a left over taste of the antifreeze you used the cheap brand with ethyl alcohol . The polypropylene Glycol will leave no taste
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:34 PM   #76
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If you had a left over taste of the antifreeze you used the cheap brand with ethyl alcohol . The polypropylene Glycol will leave no taste

Wait... they make a plastic glycol now too?









Sorry, couldn't resist... but the chemical is Propylene Glycol
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:21 PM   #77
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Wait... they make a plastic glycol now too?









Sorry, couldn't resist... but the chemical is Propylene Glycol

Look it up
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Old 09-14-2018, 09:29 PM   #78
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Winterizing question...

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Wait... they make a plastic glycol now too?



Sorry, couldn't resist... but the chemical is Propylene Glycol

Easy mistake, blame autocorrect, but is funny.

Propylene Glycol used in Electronic Cigarette liquid, de icing planes, fog machines, RV non toxic antifreeze, Im sure a lot of other uses.

Now polypropylene... thats plastic.
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Old 09-14-2018, 10:14 PM   #79
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I think it's even used in some processed foods as one of the ingredients... I know I've seen it on some ingredient lists.
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:22 AM   #80
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I think it's even used in some processed foods as one of the ingredients... I know I've seen it on some ingredient lists.

Propylene glycol is in some cake icing, but most use vegetable glycerin. Its use in electronic cigarettes is what makes the vapor, turns into water vapor when heated, also making ecigs the safer alternative to killing yourself with cigarettes.
Who knew propylene glycol would save lives and RV plumbing.
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