110 outlet and power loss

[KRedburn]

Originally Posted by NorthIdahoCamper

Help! We are plugged into 30 amp shore power at a campground. We accidently over loaded the circuit running electric heater, convection oven, hair dryer. We restart the GFI in panel by bed, and reset the magnum invertor outside. Still have a red fault light and blinking chg light on magnum panel with dead battery charge dc 0.4v. We have no 110 outlets. What are we missing,? Husband has discovered that half of the split bus in the circuit panel by the bed has no power. ISATA 5

Hind sight eval:
1. overloaded 30amp 120 connection >3600 watts power
2. reset breakers and have magnum inverter fault no charge to batteries.
3. half of electrical buss --- no power

As a reminder, the inverter is pass thru for the 120 power. The charging circuits internally are on only one leg of the incoming power.
When the 30 amp feed dropped offlne due to overcurrent draw, the inverter tried to take over using battery power. The level of draw that was occurring was >3600 watts. Power to support that from 12v source would be >300amp.
12v fuse to inverter would definitely "pop" especially if it is a 200 amp fuse.

So, anytime anyone experiences an overload, one needs to not only restore AC input power but verify that the DC side to the inverter is still good.


Keep this in mind folks!

[vlamgat]

Can you confirm that you did inverter charger resets and verified it cam on? Surely with that fuse blown you would have had no reaction to restting the inverter?

[Mr. Dan]

OP's Last Activity: 02-20-2022 09:19 PM

[Bill Boltralik]

I just make a posting at https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...222076-21.html describing the sequence of events leading up to my Battery to Inverter 250A blowing.

I have an Amazon order placed for a Bussman JJN-250 Fuse and it should arrive on Wed, 11/17/22.

I will have to personally replace it and have a few questions before I start the job:

1) Besides turning off the 12V Battery Disconnect (left of 250V fuse), how do you open the clear plastic cover that the fuse is underneath?
2) What size are the bolts on either side of the fuse?
3) For safety sake, what other precautions should I take?

Question - Did anyone who have had this problem get a Root Cause Analysis (RCA) from Dynamax Engineering to understand what would cause this $150+ fuse to blow? Is there an underlying electrical build issue that needs to be addressed?

[bclemens]

It sounds like you may have identified the cause... you said it happened after you plugged in two heaters inside the coach? Either the wattage shown was incorrect or there was an issue with the heater's themselves or....

On the original thread, you never (at least I do not recall seeing) mentioned the situation that I asked for...

IE. What were you plugged into? 20A, 30A or 50A shore power?
Did you ever check the breaker at the power pole.
Were you boon docking? IE no power. If so, why not just run the LP furnace as it is far more energy efficient than resistance heaters.

The 120V power passes through the inverter. So that fuse, would typically only blow if you are "inverting power" from the batteries. If that is the case...and the batteries were allowed to drain down, then the heaters could be asking for higher amperage to operate.

Personally, I would never try to use plug in heaters to heat the coach when not connected to stable power.

EDIT: never mind. Saw that you added a post over there. I will go read and respond to that thread.