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05-08-2017, 11:55 AM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk6164
Question: does the chassis battery charge when the generator is running?
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Looks like the issue may have been the step motor. Won't shut off now when steps go up. Tested and talked with Kwikee rep on phone. Tested motor and seems to be problem. Replacing motor when new one arrives. Have disconnected it from the Control unit.
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05-12-2017, 09:25 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7
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Reply
The only chassis loads on the Isata 3 are the wires that are connected under the driver seat base. There are three studs, one battery 25A, a 15A ignition, and a 15A vehicle running output. We connect the tail light converter to the battery stud, which also is the charge line at the 7W connector in the rear.
If there is a tow vehicle connected unplug it, as it will draw.
The vehicle ignition is connected to a couple of items, camera switch, the step ignition, the BCC ignition, the mirror monitor (if equipped). I would gain access to these wires and meter them, to see what the draw is. If the camera switch was connected to the battery circuit instead of the ignition, you would never know because the monitor only comes on with ignition. This would be about a .5 to 1.5 A load.
Now, we did have a gentleman that was putting star washers on the studs between the nuts, and the ring terminals on the wire, and the washer shorter the ignition and battery studs together.
There are also battery heaters and they draw some current, these are installed my Mercedes, so if its cold enough these may be activated. There is a chassis disconnect switch on the firewall to the right of the pedals, it disconnects the ground. If you use this, do not leave the unit plugged in, as it may latch the charger and may or may not cause an issue since the chassis battery would be ungrounded.
I would check under the seat base to see if those wires were the culprit. The slideout modules and step run off of the house batteries on that model. We cannot add more than the allotted studs can handle to that chassis.
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05-15-2017, 03:33 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 18
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[QUOTE=Derek T;1503286]The only chassis loads on the Isata 3 are the wires that are connected under the driver seat base. There are three studs, one battery 25A, a 15A ignition, and a 15A vehicle running output. We connect the tail light converter to the battery stud, which also is the charge line at the 7W connector in the rear.
If there is a tow vehicle connected unplug it, as it will draw.
The vehicle ignition is connected to a couple of items, camera switch, the step ignition, the BCC ignition, the mirror monitor (if equipped). I would gain access to these wires and meter them, to see what the draw is. If the camera switch was connected to the battery circuit instead of the ignition, you would never know because the monitor only comes on with ignition. This would be about a .5 to 1.5 A load.
Now, we did have a gentleman that was putting star washers on the studs between the nuts, and the ring terminals on the wire, and the washer shorter the ignition and battery studs together.
There are also battery heaters and they draw some current, these are installed my Mercedes, so if its cold enough these may be activated. There is a chassis disconnect switch on the firewall to the right of the pedals, it disconnects the ground. If you use this, do not leave the unit plugged in, as it may latch the charger and may or may not cause an issue since the chassis battery would be ungrounded.
I would check under the seat base to see if those wires were the culprit. The slideout modules and step run off of the house batteries on that model. We cannot add more than the allotted studs can handle to that chassis.[/QUOTE. Is there a color code for these circuits? I can see the terminals but need to remove seat to test. Thanks for the update]
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05-15-2017, 03:34 PM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 18
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Per message: is there a color code for these circuits? Thanks!
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05-15-2017, 04:47 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 1,821
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Getting the seat off is a challenge. I had a wiring issue with the camera (see "Wild Goose Chase") and it took a couple of hours due to limited access and specialized bolts.
I am interested in the order of these circuits also so I can make sure my camera is on the right stud. The camera wire was just laying under the seat. The tech placed it on the middle terminal. I think that may be incorrect as the camera would power on even with the ignition switch off.
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05-17-2017, 09:56 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 1,821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek T
The only chassis loads on the Isata 3 are the wires that are connected under the driver seat base. There are three studs, one battery 25A, a 15A ignition, and a 15A vehicle running output.
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Can we get the order of these studs starting from the drivers side door inwards.
I don't think this is in any manuals and would be valuable information. Also any tips on removing the drivers seat easily would be appreciated. I saw two techs struggle for an hour getting four bolts out and they had the tools to do it.
My loose wire from the camera was just laying on top the middle stud and not bolted down. The techs bolted it down and just assumed it was the correct stud and I am not so sure.
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05-20-2017, 12:02 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 18
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Great idea, a picture. Now can anyone (who actually knows) identify which wires should go where? As in this is 15a ignition, or 25a battery and this is camera wire? Thanks!
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05-20-2017, 12:58 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 1,821
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Really need to know more now. I put my RV in enclosed storage for the first time (new 3 week old unit) where the solar panels can't charge. I went to the Cayman Islands for a week and when I got back today, both the chassis and the house were dead. House read 8.5v. Chassis totally dead.
I plugged in to the 15 amp power and charging everything back up, but obviously a drain somewhere. By house battery disconnect was disconnected, so that wasn't the issue.
Does the monitor light on the Jensen TV stay lit even when disconnected? My TV still has the blue light on the edge even when coach battery is disconnected.
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05-20-2017, 01:06 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkman55
Can we get the order of these studs starting from the drivers side door inwards.
I don't think this is in any manuals and would be valuable information. Also any tips on removing the drivers seat easily would be appreciated. I saw two techs struggle for an hour getting four bolts out and they had the tools to do it.
My loose wire from the camera was just laying on top the middle stud and not bolted down. The techs bolted it down and just assumed it was the correct stud and I am not so sure.
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I just went out and looked at mine (2017 Isata3) That loose wire on mine is bolted down on the same terminal as the Black with Yellow Stripe.
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06-30-2017, 08:13 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 18
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Took seat off today. Middle post is battery. Small red wire on the end is ignition wire. The camera electronics is also in seat base and was connected to the middle live battery post. I moved it to the small red wire on the end post that is the ignition post. Now there is no draw on the middle battery post. Problem solved
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