2019 Isata 5 Battery Capacity

[caseymyers]

It’s complicated but the are several threads on this forum that discuss the subject at length.

[mookieblaylock]

Understood.

After reading about it during my spare time for a few days, I figured that much out. I was just curious what his design goal was in this instance to further my understanding - is the goal to be able to run completely without the generator for X number of days, is it to simply minimize the use of the generator, or, is it some complicated formula of ensuring you can limit the generator use to a single 2 hour charging cycle per day. I can figure out the math...I just don't know what the goal is/should be.

Thanks!
JT

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by mookieblaylock

Understood.

After reading about it during my spare time for a few days, I figured that much out. I was just curious what his design goal was in this instance to further my understanding - is the goal to be able to run completely without the generator for X number of days, is it to simply minimize the use of the generator, or, is it some complicated formula of ensuring you can limit the generator use to a single 2 hour charging cycle per day. I can figure out the math...I just don't know what the goal is/should be.

Thanks!
JT

Phew! Well, I am glad that you don’t want me to explain the math because most of it is “back of the napkin” stuff and based on very little real world camping experience.

So, since you asked about design “goals” and not the hard “math”, this is where my theoretical head is:

The “worst case” scenario is a campground that has no electrical hook-up. I know, for fact, we are going to be in campgrounds that have no electrical hook-ups, so I have to plan for that. It stands to reason that most campgrounds are going to have a “quiet time” and even if they don’t, decorum would dictate that you aren’t going to run the generator during certain hours. So, no electrical hook-up, no generator and the sun has to go away eventually, so no solar. For the sake of conversation, let’s say that you aren’t going to run the generator from sun down to sun up. To me, that means that I need to be able to make it 10-12 hours with no source of power except the batteries and nothing to charge the batteries.

So, I look at all the things that are going to draw on those batteries for those hours.

• Fridge
• Outside with awning/exterior lights on
• Inside with lights on
• Kids might have ipad plugged in
• Adults might have ipad plugged in
• People might get up in the middle of the night and go to the bathroom and wash hands (water pump)
• The heat could come on and there’s a blower to circulate the warm air
• It could be a warm climate and we’d have fans on
• All the other “usual” parasitic draw that is present in these coaches
• Etc, etc, etc

Stuff like that. Really, the big one is the fridge and even that isn’t too troublesome. In theory, you could completely unplug it (or switch the breaker off) and the stuff inside SHOULD still be cool in the morning. That’s beside the point because nobody really WANTS to turn the fridge off every night and back on every morning. When I think about all those things and all the scenarios that _might_ happen, I just didn’t think I want to take a chance with only 184AH of battery capacity (that’s what the Isata 5 comes delivered with). With the dust settled, upgrading to a bank that has 315AH has only cost me ~$350 (batteries + 2 new connection cables – money gained from selling original batteries) and I'm about 100# heavier than when the coach left the factory. To me, that is cheap “insurance”, so I went for it. It would have been GREAT to NOT pick up the extra 100#, but the only real way to increase total battery capacity and NOT pick up weight is with Lithium and that would have cost me $3,000, not $300.

Beyond that, if you are at a campground that has hook-ups, it’s not a non-issue (obviously). If you are boon docking on BLM land somewhere and away from other people, my assumption is that I’ll run the generator if I need it.

[JimMorrell]

Over about 40 years I've done a lot of dry camping and have never run out of battery power over a 5 to 7 day period. Never had a generator until about 2012. A few years ago, I replaced often used light bulbs with LED's and they save a lot of power. After I got a generator, I usually ran it in the morning for my wife's hair drier and/or curler, and to use my (newer) Keurig coffee pot. I charge my phone/iPad in the truck when not on shore power. A 2 hour generator run in the morning pretty well takes care of charging my batteries. We seldom have a TV signal when boondocking, so that's not an issue. The fridge runs on propane at those times.

[mookieblaylock]

All of that makes perfect sense; thanks for the reply.

One other question, if you don't mind - not asking you to go into it, but when you did do the back of the napkin figuring, did you factor in what voltage you were comfortable allowing your batteries to drop down to during this 10 - 12 hour period? I'm still trying to sort all of this out, but that seems like it should be a key variable in defining the 'goal'.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by mookieblaylock

All of that makes perfect sense; thanks for the reply.

One other question, if you don't mind - not asking you to go into it, but when you did do the back of the napkin figuring, did you factor in what voltage you were comfortable allowing your batteries to drop down to during this 10 - 12 hour period? I'm still trying to sort all of this out, but that seems like it should be a key variable in defining the 'goal'.

My interpretation of the "how far can they safely go" situation is about 12.5volts. I think 12.3volts is plausible, but you're playing with fire and diminishing the life of your batteries at that point.

Anything under 12.3 and I'll be disconnecting the batteries and waiting for an opportunity to charge them.

[BLT4SPD]

Since you asked for pictures, here it goes:

After emptying the battery tray, I scrubbed it and completely degreased it. I then applied two coats of POR-15 paint. Let that fully dry/cure for 24 hours.

Dropped all 3 batteries in the tray and secured them individually with lashing strap. From the factory there was a single lashing strap for all the batteries, but that just didn’t work for me. I know the numbers say that one lashing strap has the capacity for the weight of 2 or 3 batteries, but in my world, batteries should NOT move.

Then it was a simple matter of reconnecting them electrically and adding the 2 new 9” long 4/0 cables I bought from Amazon.

All the connections were then sprayed with Permatex anti-corrosion spray. Been using it for years and it works very well.

The keen eye might also notice that I moved the batteries as far forward as I could. I moved them forward in an effort to minimize the weight leverage that the batteries would have hanging out the back, but into a position where I still have enough room to utilize the disconnect switch. I know, I know, the mechanical advantage those batteries COULD have by being ~20” further back is very small, but I’m a dork and I have the space to move them, so why not?

[Rkloud9]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

Since you asked for pictures, here it goes:



After emptying the battery tray, I scrubbed it and completely degreased it. I then applied two coats of POR-15 paint. Let that fully dry/cure for 24 hours.



Dropped all 3 batteries in the tray and secured them individually with lashing strap. From the factory there was a single lashing strap for all the batteries, but that just didn’t work for me. I know the numbers say that one lashing strap has the capacity for the weight of 2 or 3 batteries, but in my world, batteries should NOT move.



Then it was a simple matter of reconnecting them electrically and adding the 2 new 9” long 4/0 cables I bought from Amazon.



All the connections were then sprayed with Permatex anti-corrosion spray. Been using it for years and it works very well.



The keen eye might also notice that I moved the batteries as far forward as I could. I moved them forward in an effort to minimize the weight leverage that the batteries would have hanging out the back, but into a position where I still have enough room to utilize the disconnect switch. I know, I know, the mechanical advantage those batteries COULD have by being ~20” further back is very small, but I’m a dork and I have the space to move them, so why not?

Hi Isata 5 Team!

I have been following the DynaMax forum, and the Isata 5 looks like a great choice as an upgrade for my SunSeeker 2400w. That battery tray is pretty sweet compared to my classic battery compartment in the entry way step.

Regarding operating the coach in “Boondocking” mode, the residential fridge option would be a definite battery slayer. Those babies draw a lot of power, and 2 or 3 batteries will be pretty stressed without a lot of generator or driving time (or a large solar array). Also, the furnace on my unit pulls at least 7-8 amp hours, and it often runs when snow birding in the South West. Yours is probably larger with more draw.

Most of the charts I have seen indicate that 12.6 volts on a decent battery monitor system is considered full charge, and 12.2 is 50%, considered the safe max discharge for lead acid or AGM batteries. With my two 6 volt GC batteries (Crown), I have 330 AH total, or 165 usable AH’s at 50%. When the batteries are at 12.3 volts, if the furnace goes on, the voltage will drop below 12.2, which, in most RV’s, regardless of brand, will trip the low voltage alarm on the CO detector. This is pretty annoying at 5 AM on a cold morning in the Az. desert.

Just something to consider.

Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by Rkloud9

I have been following the DynaMax forum, and the Isata 5 looks like a great choice as an upgrade for my SunSeeker 2400w. That battery tray is pretty sweet compared to my classic battery compartment in the entry way step.

Yeah, it’s VERY big (36”x14”) and the storage compartment is very easy to work in. It doesn’t have a light like the other basement compartment do, but I added one as a “just in case” measure.

Originally Posted by Rkloud9

Regarding operating the coach in “Boondocking” mode, the residential fridge option would be a definite battery slayer. Those babies draw a lot of power, and 2 or 3 batteries will be pretty stressed without a lot of generator or driving time (or a large solar array).

Totally agree that the residential fridge will be the energy hog in this situation. I’m going to play it by ear and see what happens, BUT I can confidently say that even if one were to turn the fridge off before going to sleep at night and then turn it back on in the morning, you would still have cold food in the morning. The freezer and still having frozen food is a bit of a wild card though. Will be testing soon.

Originally Posted by Rkloud9

Also, the furnace on my unit pulls at least 7-8 amp hours, and it often runs when snow birding in the South West. Yours is probably larger with more draw.

I have not tested this one yet, but I’m not super concerned about it (yet). The furnace is propane, so all the batteries would really be powering is the fan. Plus, this could be managed with a lower temp setting on the T-Stat and some warmer PJs.

Originally Posted by Rkloud9

When the batteries are at 12.3 volts, if the furnace goes on, the voltage will drop below 12.2, which, in most RV’s, regardless of brand, will trip the low voltage alarm on the CO detector. This is pretty annoying at 5 AM on a cold morning in the Az. desert.

I hadn’t considered the CO detector going off due to low voltage. Thanks for the heads up on that!

[FOURWHL]

Something to test would be how much it needs to run the next morning to catch back up vs just “idling” over night.

I know there’s a point with house HVAC that it’s no longer beneficial to raise your temp while you’re away because the recovery is so much longer.

Just something else to play around with

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

Something to test would be how much it needs to run the next morning to catch back up vs just “idling” over night.

I know there’s a point with house HVAC that it’s no longer beneficial to raise your temp while you’re away because the recovery is so much longer.

Just something else to play around with

Agreed and it's something that we will either get to "play" with or just have to perform a "trial by fire".

We live in the sticks-ish and have survived many power outages that have lasted way more than 12 hours with our fridge food cool and freeze food frozen. Not exactly apples to oranges because, like you mentioned, the recovery period is not an issue in a sticks-and-bricks. Still suggests that we could make it through the night with no power to the fridge and make it to a point where we could run the generator or let the sun bask our solar panels.

I'm not sure the heating or cooling recovery of the coach would be a huge issue though. I was thinking about setting the T-Stats to something like 67-68 instead of 72-74 (in the cases where we need heat). The heating recovery of such a small space from 67-68 to 72-74 wouldn't be that taxing. Of course that's going to depend greatly on the ambient, but _we_ aren't planning on being in truly cold places with the coach.

[caseymyers]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

Something to test would be how much it needs to run the next morning to catch back up vs just “idling” over night.

I know there’s a point with house HVAC that it’s no longer beneficial to raise your temp while you’re away because the recovery is so much longer.

Just something else to play around with

Do you have one of these?

https://www.amazon.ca/P3-P3IP4400-El...l+a+watt+meter

[FOURWHL]

You won’t be running your AC off batteries so don’t think the Tstat settings are all that critical. Unless of course you did end up going lithium...

Was just using that as a sticks and bricks analogy for the fridge.

Definitely agree it’s possible though. Just need to figure out if it’s worthwhile I guess. I have definitely zapped the battieres over night and never worried about the food in the fridge. Like you said, few hours with the generator to get things rolling again.

[FOURWHL]

Originally Posted by caseymyers

Do you have one of these?

https://www.amazon.ca/P3-P3IP4400-El...l+a+watt+meter

I’m going to go more of a whole system route when I do my solar install. But for now I’m just flying blind.

https://www.amazon.com/OutBack-FLEXw...ref=mp_s_a_1_2

[sseaner]

Purchase two lithium’s and be done with it. $1800.00. Save weight too!

[FOURWHL]

where are you getting lithiums for $900?!

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by sseaner

Purchase two lithium’s and be done with it. $1800.00. Save weight too!

That would be dreamy!

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

where are you getting lithiums for $900?!

In general, I think these are considered about as good as it gets in terms of drop-in replacement lithiums.

https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop...cycle-battery/

I have heard tale of people picking them up with coupons or on amazon or with a veteran's discount for $890-900.

[FOURWHL]

Wow. Compared to the ones I’m drooling over those seem pretty reasonable

https://www.ecodirect.com/mobile/Pro...Relion-RB300SC

[sseaner]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

where are you getting lithiums for $900?!

https://battlebornbatteries.com/