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Old 07-08-2021, 06:02 AM   #1
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2021 Force HD solar charge working-or not

I have a 2021 Force 37TS. This comes with the standard 2x100w solar panels. I'm honestly not sure the specs on the coach batteries but there are two large (physically) ones, but they are placed such as I can't see any specifics on them. I have what I believe is the standard GoPower solar charger. The LCD charging indicator along the top of the display is scrolling left to right. Sun is high noon, clear sky. The power controller is off, no inverting, and no charging. So the coach is on DC only. The only thing that is definitely on is the Winegard Connect on the roof which is running my wifi. The coach isn't in use, just sitting there. There may be a few other small loads, but it can't be much. Yesterday I kept an eye on the batteries for about four hours, and the voltage never went above 11.8, even after four hours of solar charging. So, is 200watts not enough to charge those two large batteries? Is there possible something not working right on the GoPower? I don't see any settings on the go power so can't see it being settings. BTW, when I got to the coach yesterday morning the batts were at 11.5. So I ran the generator and charger for while and brought them up to 11.8 thinking the solar should have no trouble from there. Also, thinking back, I'm not certain the solar has been working right from day one. In my Isata-5, same 2x100 solar panels, I could pretty consistently run my residential refrigerator, and some tv, and the solar panels handled 100%, seldom ever needing generator unless using the microwave or AC. With the new Force, I can't get through a single night, with refrig on and nothing else.
So that's my story. Do I need to increase solar panels? More battery storage (not much extra physical space)? Or is something not working or set right?
I have been having seemingly unusual generator run issue, running (set to start on 11.7 volts) and not stopping. I thought this is unusual (to the tune of nearly 30 gallons of diesel fuel over several weeks). This seemed odd, because like I said, my Isata-5 had no problem keeping the inverter running and the residential refrig, never needing any auxiliary generator run time. As it is now, I've had to resort to shutting the inverter and refrigerator off. So when I go to tinker on the coach, no food, or ice. And I don't like to stock up for a trip starting with a warm refrigerator. I am addressing the generator start issue on another thread, and I would like to keep the scope of this thread to the solar. I just added the gen issue because it may be running because the solar isn't doing what I expect it to.
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:56 AM   #2
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What kind of voltage are you getting from solar when it is full sun?

Looks like it is set for AGM. There might be a solar disconnect above the chassis one, make sure that is ON.

You can add two panels pretty easily. I think the rule of thumb was 100watts per 100 AH??? You likely have (2) 4D AGM's, so you would have roughly 400 AH.
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:02 AM   #3
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The only voltage reading I see, is what is on the GoPower display, which is 11.8. That was in full sun, high noon. Clear sky. If there is somewhere else to check voltage I am not aware of it. I thought, perhaps mistakenly, that the voltage reading on the GoPower display was the battery voltage. Perhaps not? As can be seen in the small red led charge level on the left, the batteries are only at around 50% charge. That never changed during the four hour observation either.
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:07 AM   #4
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I did look, in the battery compartment and inverter cabinet for a disconnect and only saw the larger chassis disconnect in the battery compartment. I also "assumed" that seeing the LCD bar at the top of the GoPower display marching persistently from left to right, that meant charging.
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:09 AM   #5
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In looking at the manual...
https://forestriverinc.help/#/dynama...ultiple-709634

If you press Volt/Amp button you should get battery voltage, charging current, capacity. It is showing the battery voltage...but you should also be able to see charging state as I recall.
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:27 AM   #6
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Unfortunately I am not there. I only check it once or twice a week. But I did push the volt/amp button and as I recall from yesterday, it only changed from volt to amp, and back again. I didn't notice any other readings, and I was looking for some more readings. But from the manual, and the color indicators on my unit (see photo) my charger should be in
Bulk charging (11.5V <VB> 12.5V).
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:32 AM   #7
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I am not coming upon the specifications for the two coach batteries. Can you provide that? Type, and amp/hr.
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Old 07-08-2021, 08:37 AM   #8
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They are Intimidator 4d batteries. AGM
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Old 07-08-2021, 09:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
They are Intimidator 4d batteries. AGM
198AH according to their website.
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Old 07-09-2021, 07:17 AM   #10
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According to GoPower, more like 500watts of solar panels would be more appropriate for two of those 4d agm's, and the 30amp controller on my '21 Force. The GoPower panels seem to be about twice the cost, of other brands for the same output and voltage. I don't remember for sure last time I was on the roof, but I am thinking what's there are flexible panels glued down? I didn't get a clear answer as to why the 200watts I have wouldn't charge over 11.8 volts after four hours high noon, clear sky. They felt there must be more draw than the panels could produce. Although I have everything off (inverter and batt charger OFF), coach on DC only, and the only thing I could find still on was the Winegard Connect wifi. Next step is to invest in a DC amp meter.
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Old 07-09-2021, 01:48 PM   #11
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Another draw is you CO/gas detector which is direct tie to batteries. This will have a relay output to your shut off solenoid on your LP tank which is energized and another constant draw. Plus your Connect 2 unit.

Your "parasitic" draw is more than the solar can supply when the sun is not directly over your panels (most of the day and all night).

Additional panels would be best. 4 max on your existing controller.


Just my thoughts.
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Old 07-09-2021, 03:24 PM   #12
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Four max additional, total 500 watts? That's what the GoPower techsupport said the 30 amp controller can handle. He says regardless of rating, its impossible to get more the 5 to 5.5 amps out of 100watt panels. He says the math, 100/12 is theoretical, but practically 5 to 5.5. He thinks 500watts for their 30 amp controller is good.
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Old 07-09-2021, 03:27 PM   #13
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Who knows if the panels supplied by Dynamax on the Force are "flexible" type? I can't remember even though I was up there about a week ago. I am thinking they were flat, glued down to the roof.
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Old 07-09-2021, 03:41 PM   #14
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I only said 4 panels max.
My 2018 DX3 Go Power system from factory is 2 flexible panels.
100 watts each.

The Go power controller is a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) type solar controller. IMO a MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) controller would be a better solution. Costs more but would be better suited to environment where partial shading of a panel can/does occur as many times would occur while glamping.

If you choose to change or enhance your system may want to consider a different controller or upgrade to system.

You could try here https://www.renogy.com for additional information on RV type systems available. (note: I am NOT affiliated in any way)
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Old 07-09-2021, 03:47 PM   #15
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Interesting, you are the second person in as many days suggesting Renogy. I am thinking a charger upgrade may be in order. I am not understanding why my 2020 Isata-5, with what I thought were the same solar specs, didn't have any of these issues. I left it for weeks without any shore power, and the inverter on to keep my refer on. Never had any bad ice cubes when I arrived, and best I could tell, generator never ran. Go figure. At any rate, I think I am headed in the right direction. I just want to keep my ice maker going reliably without shore power. That's priority number one.
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