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Old 10-16-2020, 12:24 PM   #1
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2021 Isata 5 30FW AC issue

On our first trip we found that the front AC is constantly running and not cooling the front area sufficiently. We noticed that if the temp is set at 80 degrees, the AC unit starts running when the internal temp is at 80 degrees, and after 2 hours of running the internal temperature on the control panel shows 90 degrees, as its getting hotter outside. In other words, it keeps getting hotter in the front of the coach even though the AC is running. I measured the air coming from the 2 front vents over the bunk bed and the air there registered 60 degrees. Cold air is also coming out of the AC vents. The 2 vents above the kitchen are not supplying any air from either AC units. The rear AC is working great and runs for 5 minutes to reach the set temperature and then shuts off.
We have the RV at the dealer to fix several other issues and we were told that this front AC issue is common on the Isata 5 30FW due to some venting design issue that is not authorized to be fixed under warranty. However it can be fixed at our expense.
If not on shore power and with the possibility of our dogs to be in the coach unattended at times, we would have the generator running constantly due to an insufficient air supply which can be fixed.
Please advise what you guys would do.
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Old 10-16-2020, 12:32 PM   #2
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The dealer is feeding you BS. Ours works perfectly. I know there have been a number of the Coleman-Mach AC that have bad compressors.

Call your service contact at Dynamax, see the Contact Us link on the website.
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Old 10-16-2020, 12:38 PM   #3
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The dealer is feeding you BS. Ours works perfectly. I know there have been a number of the Coleman-Mach AC that have bad compressors.

Call your service contact at Dynamax, see the Contact Us link on the website.
Thank you for your feedback. Since the AC is producing cold air but only through the AC unit vents and the 2 vents over the bunk bed and no air coming out of the 2 vents over the kitchen. I venture a guess that it is a ducting issue not the AC itself.
Please advise if that might be the issue or if the AC unit is faulty. The rear AC unit is supplying the same 60 dec cold air through 6 vents, versus the 2 vents on the front AC unit.
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Old 10-16-2020, 12:46 PM   #4
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Open the air dump on the grill and bypass the duct work.
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:07 PM   #5
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Open the air dump on the grill and bypass the duct work.
Those have been open while operating as well as all the ceiling vents.
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:14 PM   #6
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You didn’t say what the outside temp was when all of this was happening. You won’t get much more than a 20 degree cooling effect. If you had the dump panels open, then the amount of air going through the ducts is minimal.

Another thing to check is to pull the grill and check for blockage or if the separator between the return air and and the cool air is come loose or out of place. There are a number of threads that deal with the divider between the return and the cool air.
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:19 PM   #7
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You didn’t say what the outside temp was when all of this was happening. You won’t get much more than a 20 degree cooling effect. If you had the dump panels open, then the amount of air going through the ducts is minimal.

Another thing to check is to pull the grill and check for blockage or if the separator between the return air and and the cool air is come loose or out of place. There are a number of threads that deal with the divider between the return and the cool air.
Outside temp was 95 dec which was also the inside temp reading on the panel as the front AC unit was running constantly. The rear unit ran every 30 minutes for 3 to 4 minutes to keep the inside temp at 80 dec.
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:33 PM   #8
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It is not "uncommon" for a couple of vents to NOT have air flowing out as they can get what is called "blow by"...it means the air is flowing too fast to exit that spot. Creating some turbulence by creating a deflector that sticks up into that area will help, or make sure it is on low.

That fact that you are getting air out of the ducts over the bunk bed...tells me it is ducted just fine as they are all connected together.

Try running the REAR A/C only. Close the quick dump (the louvers on the a/c) and the bedroom outlets and then check. The rear and front A/C's are all on one duct. In theory, the rear A/C could cool the entire coach. It sounds like the rear A/C is short cycling as it is overkill for just the bedroom.

IF you have the louvers open at the A/C itself, as has been mentioned that almost all of your air will come out there. You have to close those to force it through the ductwork.

You can also try "just" running the front A/C, louvers closed.

When measuring temps...you have to remember, if you are measuring 60 degrees, if you are running BOTH airs, then you maybe getting temps of the rear A/C....the front might not be working at all.
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:36 PM   #9
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PS. I spent 3 days, in 95 degree temps and kept the thermostat at 72 degrees the entire time with ONLY the rear A/C running. I only had 30 amp service.

Also, if the A/C is on the tower, it can sometimes read the air temps that are inside of the cavity...so it may not actually be 90 in there.
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Old 10-16-2020, 02:19 PM   #10
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It is not "uncommon" for a couple of vents to NOT have air flowing out as they can get what is called "blow by"...it means the air is flowing too fast to exit that spot. Creating some turbulence by creating a deflector that sticks up into that area will help, or make sure it is on low.

That fact that you are getting air out of the ducts over the bunk bed...tells me it is ducted just fine as they are all connected together.

Try running the REAR A/C only. Close the quick dump (the louvers on the a/c) and the bedroom outlets and then check. The rear and front A/C's are all on one duct. In theory, the rear A/C could cool the entire coach. It sounds like the rear A/C is short cycling as it is overkill for just the bedroom.

IF you have the louvers open at the A/C itself, as has been mentioned that almost all of your air will come out there. You have to close those to force it through the ductwork.

You can also try "just" running the front A/C, louvers closed.

When measuring temps...you have to remember, if you are measuring 60 degrees, if you are running BOTH airs, then you maybe getting temps of the rear A/C....the front might not be working at all.
Thank you for your feedback. I did measure the air temp with only the front AC unit running and it was at 60 dec air supply. Since the RV is at the dealer I will ask them to check it out. My main concern is the comment I got from the tech saying that this is a common issue and a design flaw not covered under warranty to be fixed.
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Old 10-16-2020, 02:27 PM   #11
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“My main concern is the comment I got from the tech saying that this is a common issue and a design flaw not covered under warranty to be fixed.“

This was the BS I was referring. I have not know Dynamax to ever put off any issues under warranty. I have been more than happy with their response to any of the minor issues we have encountered.

We camped in 100f weather and kept both the front and back AC at 76f and no issues maintaining the 76f.

What’s confusing is you measuring 60f output, but the thermostat reading 90f.
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Old 10-16-2020, 02:28 PM   #12
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Thank you for your feedback. I did measure the air temp with only the front AC unit running and it was at 60 dec air supply. Since the RV is at the dealer I will ask them to check it out. My main concern is the comment I got from the tech saying that this is a common issue and a design flaw not covered under warranty to be fixed.
If the A/C was running and the outlet air is 60 then it is working as it should.

One of two things is happening.
1. it is not fully charged and so it runs the compressor for a while (you get 60 degrees), but then it runs out of coolant to run through and it is then blowing warm

2. You have the A/C set to LOW or HIGH and not AUTO. On High...the fan will run all the time, but that does not mean the compressor is running and cooling. So maybe the T-stat thinks it is hitting a set point??? but the fan will keeping going.

As for the "common design flaw not covered by warranty", that might be the dumbest thing I have heard this wee...mon...year. (well...lets say week since it is 2020 as you know)

If it was a design flaw, either by the A/C or our ducting it would be covered by warranty. That is exactly what defect or design flaw means.

What's the last (6) of the VIN and the dealer?

The only OTHER possibility is if it is an older unit with the Atwood and the plenum divider has fallen down or is loose...then it is mixing supply and return. Your last (6) will help eliminate (or confirm) that.

Edit: if you are a 2021, then it is not an Atwood. So ignore the comment above.
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Old 10-16-2020, 03:57 PM   #13
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If the A/C was running and the outlet air is 60 then it is working as it should.

One of two things is happening.
1. it is not fully charged and so it runs the compressor for a while (you get 60 degrees), but then it runs out of coolant to run through and it is then blowing warm

2. You have the A/C set to LOW or HIGH and not AUTO. On High...the fan will run all the time, but that does not mean the compressor is running and cooling. So maybe the T-stat thinks it is hitting a set point??? but the fan will keeping going.

As for the "common design flaw not covered by warranty", that might be the dumbest thing I have heard this wee...mon...year. (well...lets say week since it is 2020 as you know)

If it was a design flaw, either by the A/C or our ducting it would be covered by warranty. That is exactly what defect or design flaw means.

What's the last (6) of the VIN and the dealer?

The only OTHER possibility is if it is an older unit with the Atwood and the plenum divider has fallen down or is loose...then it is mixing supply and return. Your last (6) will help eliminate (or confirm) that.

Edit: if you are a 2021, then it is not an Atwood. So ignore the comment above.
Thank you for your feedback on design flaw and warranty:
1. I only checked the air supply a few times as it was running. As mentioned before the front AC unit was running constantly for 2 hours set at a cooling temp of 80 dec and while it was getting hotter outside the room temperature on the panel was going you to a high of 90 dec while it was 95 dec outside. We ended up setting the starting temperature to 95 dec for the AC to not run any longer. The rear unit did keep up cooling the RV but the front certainly seemed hotter. We did have the window screen installed and had a blanket over the cab opening to minimize cooling loss.
2. The AC was set at Auto
3. Vin # G136525 from DeMartini RV. I only talked to the tech as the service manager is not in today. Once I talk to him I now have info that if it is a design flaw it can be fixed.
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Old 10-16-2020, 04:41 PM   #14
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“My main concern is the comment I got from the tech saying that this is a common issue and a design flaw not covered under warranty to be fixed.“

This was the BS I was referring. I have not know Dynamax to ever put off any issues under warranty. I have been more than happy with their response to any of the minor issues we have encountered.

We camped in 100f weather and kept both the front and back AC at 76f and no issues maintaining the 76f.

What’s confusing is you measuring 60f output, but the thermostat reading 90f.
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Here is a picture I took while the AC was still running after 2 hours. The inside temp got up to 90 dec as the front AC was running.
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Old 10-17-2020, 05:25 PM   #15
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Outside temperature has no effect on temperature comming out of AC. The unit should give you approximate degree drop of 18 to 20 degrees. If it is 80 degrees inside the coach you should get between 60 to 62 degrees from the closest discharge. Outside temperature affects amp draw on the compressor. Doing RV ac for 43 years.
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Old 10-18-2020, 09:03 PM   #16
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2021 Isata 5 30FW AC issue

If the front ac ducts are pointed to the thermostat it will keep shutting down the ac to soon before the room is at temp. I found that if I point them at the door you will not have the ac going off and on .I have been in 116 outside and inside controls at 78. Also if the sun is on the side that the thermostat is on the wall will effect the thermostat.
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:45 AM   #17
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If the front ac ducts are pointed to the thermostat it will keep shutting down the ac to soon before the room is at temp. I found that if I point them at the door you will not have the ac going off and on .I have been in 116 outside and inside controls at 78. Also if the sun is on the side that the thermostat is on the wall will effect the thermostat.
The issue we have is that the front AC runs for a long time as its not cooling the front area sufficiently, it seems. As you can see from the picture posted the inside temperature in the front was at 89 dec while the AC unit is running,
Where is the thermostat location?
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:51 AM   #18
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I also have a 2021 30FW, but I have two individual Coleman thermostats and the Precision Plex controls. Looks like you have the new Firefly control system. I have no idea where the sensors are for that system. Hopefully somebody else with the new Firefly controls can help.
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:58 AM   #19
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The issue we have is that the front AC runs for a long time as its not cooling the front area sufficiently, it seems. As you can see from the picture posted the inside temperature in the front was at 89 dec while the AC unit is running,
Where is the thermostat location?
How does the interior "feel"? Does it feel 89? I wonder also where the remote T-stats are. If it feels 89 then it doesn't matter...if it feels cooler than 89, then maybe the sensors are getting bad readings.

We have seen a handful of A/C's "under charged". So it may work for an hour...then then it starts blowing warm air.
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Old 10-19-2020, 09:17 AM   #20
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How does the interior "feel"? Does it feel 89? I wonder also where the remote T-stats are. If it feels 89 then it doesn't matter...if it feels cooler than 89, then maybe the sensors are getting bad readings.

We have seen a handful of A/C's "under charged". So it may work for an hour...then then it starts blowing warm air.
I definitely feels warmer in the front and measuring with the heat thermometer the bunk area reading is around 90 dec. Main concern is that the AC is just running constantly and not cooling the area. I'll relay all this info to the dealer and hopefully it is a AC low charge issue.
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