2021 Isata 5 30FW TV & GFI Outlet issues.

[bclemens]

Just moving a PM to a new thread so I can attach documents and pictures.

You seem to be knowledgeable and helpful regarding ISATA 5 issues. I haven't been impressed with the accuracy of the various supplied manuals and even the videos as my unit has significant differences with what is shown (COVID effect on parts?)

I have a new 2021 ISATA 5 30 FW with the explorer package purchased from Dennis Dillon in Boise.

2 main issues:

1) now relatively minor but annoying, the bedroom TV will not receive a signal from the multiplex. I believe it has something to do with the CAT5 wiring with an HDMI adapter (unlike what has been shown as standard in all the online videos, continuous HDMI). The CAT5 cable has green and yellow lights that activate when I toggle the multi plex so I think it is either the adapter or the TV input. Unfortunately to work on the TV, Danielle the western region service manager said that the wood trim around the the TV needs to be removed to be able to get to the wiring (poor design IMO). I will have to wait months for a service appointment or drive back to Boise (live in Reno) to get the selling dealer to work on it. I don't want to pull off the trim myself as that will effect the warranty coverage

2) We are on our first extended trip in the unit in Oregon and Northern CA. The GFI outlets in the rig quit working, I do not see a resettable outlet anywhere, but there is a a GFI breaker which I have reset several times with no sucees...it is not tripped the outlets just are not working. This effects more than half the outlets in the unit, the TVs, cable, DVD, multiplex outlets, electrical recliners...which is why problem number one above is a minor issue. No blown breakers, no blown fuses...is there a breaker box somewhere else in the unit aside from under the closet.

We researched a number of brands and decided to go with Dynamax, liked the diesel, size, and floor plan and were generally told they were a high end brand. Thus far not impressed with the accuracy of the documentation and the response from the service manager and the two dealers I have been conversing with.

Any help would be appreciated.

Pete D

[bclemens]

1. I think the TV should just lift up and off to access wiring, but I will see about getting a pic of the mount from engineering to confirm. (can't post in a PM, so will convert to a new thread). As for the documentation...the HDMI matrix just recently converted from the HDMI to the CAT6 version. It will take us a bit to shoot/amend the old video for 2022 Model year (you have a 2021 that got a 2022 update). In the meantime, the matrix works pretty much the same way, yours will just have an adaptor that will convert the CTA6 back to HDMI at the TV. Also, in the black bag, there should be a correct paper version of the manual for the matrix. We are updating the digital versions currently. NO signal at the TV could be a bad adaptor, or maybe something got unplugged.

2. GFI's are tough without fore info. Are you running on the inverter? generator or plugged in? a GFI will not reset unless there is power. If there is a GFI plug that is upstream, it will of course affect the downstream plugs. I would check the bathroom first (often times it is an outlet on the side of the vanity that many people do not notice)

Will update once I have more info.

[bclemens]

Trim Ring: Normally there is enough space to get the TV "UP and OFF" the wall bracket. Sometimes when installed, they can center the TV, and we don't always get the height we need on the mount. In that case the trim ring would need to be pulled off to get the needed clearance. I am told that was also the response Danielle gave, the only thing I would add is that if the trim ring is damaged in any way, that would not void the warranty. We are happy to send a replacement as it is our issue. You should be able to use a plastic trim tool or similar to pry the trim ring. The brad nails that attach it should be more visible then. Just make sure to protect the wall board.

HDMI Matrix: As I mentioned, the proper paper manual for the newer CAT6 HDMI matrix should be in the black bag, that is how we get a copy and added it to the flash drive that ships with the vehicle. We will not however post "scans" on the interactive owners manual (or at least we are not supposed to), so we are waiting on a true digital copy from our supplier and that has not come yet. In the meantime, this is what I found on our flash drive. (see pdf below)

[bclemens]

TV Mount: this is the TV mount to help with visualizing.

https://shop.ramco-eng.com/collectio...220qs-webkit-4

[bclemens]

Here is the 120V layout. Engineering says....

"I would start with the inverter. See if the resettable fuse on the inverter was popped. It may be a bad GFCI breaker or sometimes the breakers are very sensitive to different power sources, have him try gen power etc. Also check every outlet to make sure everything is unplugged inside and outside. Also check the side bed outlets, they are on a different circuit."

And that pretty much exhausts what I can do without feedback.

[peted21]

Thanks for the responses and info..

Regarding the TV, Danielle is going to send me a replacement CAT6 to HDMI adapter hopefully that is the issue. I will wait to pull the trim piece off until I have that. FYI just checked and the outside TV seems to have the same basic issue regarding the mount, it slides up until it hits the top of the compartment but that is not enough to get it off the mount and it is a molded compartment so no piece to remove, is that the same mount? Note until I had this power issue that TV was working so this is mainly an FYI for me in case I need to access behind the TV.

I do not see any reset button on the inverter, could you send me a photo or manual? If some outlets are working and some are not will resetting the inverter assuming I can find the button potentially work? I had a mobile RV tech here today and he could not figure out what was going on. He thought the breaker was probably OK since 1) it was not tripped and 2) some of the outlets labelled GFI (on the bedroom wall and one one side of the bed pedestal, and the outside outlet) ARE working. The one on the engine side of the bed pedestal, in the bathroom, and the popup on the kitchen counter are not labelled GFI and are working. He attempted to find a bad flow thru outlet but was not able to, they either tested good or no voltage at all...he told me he was trying to find one that had voltage coming in but not out indicating a break in the chain and a bad outlet...I was unclear how he could do that just checking the output voltage...thoughts?

The outlets not working and GFI labelled: front TV, outlets on either side just behind the cab, to the right of the entry door, outlet under the kitchen cabinet, outlet in the cabinet with the matrix, DVD, and cable box (major bummer as we wanted to test this out on the road) . Outlets not working that are NOT labelled GFI are the recliner plug ins, the outlet on the back wall above the dinette and the outlets under the dinette and the one under the dinette seat in the storage compartment. Danielle sent me some schematics but none seem to show the wiring diagram for the 120V circuitry and the outlets...is that available?

Danielle told me that there was only one breaker for all the outlets both GFI and non GFI, this seems to jive with the breaker box as I only see one breaker labeled GFI outlets...none with a label like non GFI outlets, i this correct, just one breaker?

Look forward to the response...BTW definitely no matrix manual in my black satchel or on the flash drive...so thanks for that and if you have any schematics or thoughts on the above will greatly appreciate it...very puzzled and bummed cannot use TV, in motion satellite, DVD, etc...hopefully you have some answers really not looking forward to a long wait for a warranty appointment.

Pete

[bclemens]

I don't think that is the same mount outside. (could be wrong), I thought that was one screwed through the back, screws accessible in the vanity methinks

Inverter. If you got to the interactive manual https://forestriverinc.help/#/dynama...ultiple-983896

The inverter manual is in there. Page 5 has the input breakers.

As for outlets in general, I actually meant to post the layout up above.
It appears that all the outlets on circuit 8 are out. that points me to the breaker. It might just be bad.

[peted21]

Thanks for the link to the inverter manual. Based on what I have told you that some of the outlets in particular the 7A outlets and, at least based on the schematic a couple of 8A, are working should I still try resetting the inverter?

If I reset it it sounds like I just need to unplug shore power and not run the generator, what about the solar? I do not want to lose the outlets that are still working so want to be sure this is not likely to mess anything else up and is a worthwhile attempt at a solution.

As far as what may be screwed up assuming the schematic accurately reflects what I have which as you see below does not entirely seem to be the case, could it still be the breaker? My outlet in the bathroom shown as 8A GFI is still working and is not labelled GFI...it probably should be a GFI but does not appear to be more likely on the 7A circuit. Same with the exterior outlet labelled as GFI but is still working (7A)? The outlet below the bedroom TV shown on the schematic as 7A is labelled as GFI but I assume that the 7A circuit is not GFI.

The popup outlets on the kitchen counter are plugged into an outlet underneath the counter and do not seem to be shown on the drawing and they are working (7A?). I also have an extra outlet underneath the cushion in the storage space below opposite the location shown not working.

Is it possible that an outlet in the circuit goes bad and affects the downstream outlets as the repairman indicated (he appeared to have legitimate credentials)? If so is that for either GFI and non GFI? Can you test that by just checking the output voltage without pulling the outlet out and actually checking the wire...the guy just checked the socket and told me he was looking for one that had power coming in but not out. How is that indicated by an external (socket) voltmeter? When he checked them they were either good or bad.

Bottom line is I am gaining some understanding but it does seem like there are some elements different from the schematic and the fact that some outlets on what appears to be the same circuit are working and some not working seems like a circuit linkage issue and that it seems unlikely that the source point (inverter or breaker) is the issue...am I missing something?

Still confused and frustrated...
Pete

[bclemens]

Outlets, just like in a home are "daisy chained", one leads to the next, so yes, if there is a bad outlet, the it might not pass power through, or the "outlet" power is not making proper contact within the outlets itself.

As for the pop-up oulet, those would not really be shown as they are not outlets exctaly, but more like an extension cord plugged into an outlet (which is the one we would show).

I'll see if I can find out how they are wired to see if that sheds a light on what is downstream.

PS. Were any of these working before? Or have they not been working since day 1? That will also help us determine root cause.

[peted21]

Yes, everything was working fine previously. What is the process for testing the outlets for correct operation and current pass through to the next outlet? The RV guy just checked voltage and obviously found some working and some not but said he could not find where the "blockage" is. Is there a specific indication or reading with voltage meter that indicates current in but not out to the next in line such that we could figure out the bad one?

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by peted21

Yes, everything was working fine previously. What is the process for testing the outlets for correct operation and current pass through to the next outlet? The RV guy just checked voltage and obviously found some working and some not but said he could not find where the "blockage" is. Is there a specific indication or reading with voltage meter that indicates current in but not out to the next in line such that we could figure out the bad one?

Well, that changes things a bit. Outlets like that don't really just go bad, they either conduct, or they do not. Wires get run in and the outlet is in two pieces, the top half clamps down and presses the wires into place.

As for testing them....there is no way to test an outlet like he said. It either works, or it does not work. The only way to properly test them is to pull them off the wall and check the voltage of each wire....it does not sound like that is something up your alley and a dealer would be the best bet in that case. We're going to talk to the line about the order of the wiring to see if that would explain things...but the fact that they were working prior, takes me back to the breaker. The schematic could be for an early 2021? and we've made some changes.

What are amperage are you plugged into for shore power?

Did you check the inverter circuit breakers? Up above I said page 5...which is not page 5 of the PDF, but page 5 as labeled on the manual Image below

[bclemens]

Also, have you found a GFI outlet?

I have a GFI outlet on my bill of materials. That is the other thing it can be. We have seen some bad GFI breakers, but also if a GFI is tripped it will affect all of the downstream outlets. there is at least one on the 30FW. I am not 100% sure where.

[peted21]

I have a different inverter than the one in the manual, Danielle sent me the new correct manual. The one I have (I will try and upload a couple photos) is model MS2812 Magna Sine lithium compatible. I do have the explorer package FYI. There do not appear to be any circuit breakers on the inverter, there is a reset process but am reluctant to do that since it seems like most of the systems are operating and do not want to mess anything else up. Are you still recommending I do that? If so is the battery disconnect switch near the entryway the way to disconnect the solar? I assume I would unplug, generator off, and battery switch in the disconnect position. But want to make sure this is worthwhile. When this first happened my immediate thought was either the circuit breaker of a GFI outlet had popped but I cannot see on anywhere. I think Danielle is going to try and get on a call with the electrical engineer and they are looking for the specific install records.

The main inverter circuit breakers inside the unit are not tripped and to answer your question I have scoured the unit and can find no outlet with a GFI reset button just the circuit breaker in the box. There are some odd locations for outlets so perhaps one is hidden somewhere.

I am on 50 amp shore power with a surge protector inline. The problem started at a RV campground at Diamond Lake OR and now has continued in Reedsport. Both RV sites are higher end and their systems seem to be solid and well maintained.

[bclemens]

There is a circuit breaker in image #3

[peted21]

That little black button that says CB1 30A correct?

[bclemens]

yes

[peted21]

And could some outlets be working and some not if that was tripped?

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by peted21

And could some outlets be working and some not if that was tripped?

Not exactly...but I don't recall how the inverter feeds the sub panel. It still feels like a breaker. Will know more tomorrow.

[peted21]

OK looking forward to more info. I did check the CB1 button and it was NOT tripped pushed it in anyway but no click or anything and it seemed fine...

If I need to do a reset as the next step want to get the specifics on how to shut everything off...mainly the solar and battery bank.

[acoxFL]

I’m concerned that the OP stated he was unable to find the outlets with the GFCI reset, I’d have started there. I had a similar issue with my ‘19 Isata 3 24RW until BC pointed me to the outlet in the bathroom, I reset that and problem solved. My other resettable outlet was one over the sink facing down, so I had 2 outlets with resets. May not be the only issue here, but have we confirmed one or both outlets with reset buttons aren’t tripped? I read comments about the breaker panel and the inverter CB but I don’t see where the resettable outlets were ever found. My apologies if I missed that.