2021 Isata 5 30FW with 2 Lithium batteries and residential fridge

[PUDDLEPIRATE]

Originally Posted by AStrand

Another issue I've had with my Victron 701 monitor is that in the early mornings when it's cold outside, I get a lower battery reading. Last trip I saw the voltage as low a 7.6 volts, but the capacity graph showed a full battery. As the day warmed up it kicked back to 13.2v, where it pretty much hovers for days (60-70%). I find the Victron monitor a little flakey sometimes, so I carry a handheld monitor also.

Is your fridge 120v?

If so what is the size of the inverter, and what other loads is the inverter running? ( mine is also hooked up to the large flat screen) ( But when hooked up to shore power, it switches from battery to shore power, and when shore power is out, goes to battery)

Most of the time the inverter runs more than on item--

What is the size in amp hours are, each of the batterys you have?

The ones in my posted pictures are 100 amps ea.

[AStrand]

I use a Gardner Bender 3190 basic digital volt meter.

[msusslin]

Originally Posted by PUDDLEPIRATE

Is your fridge 120v?

If so what is the size of the inverter, and what other loads is the inverter running? ( mine is also hooked up to the large flat screen) ( But when hooked up to shore power, it switches from battery to shore power, and when shore power is out, goes to battery)

Most of the time the inverter runs more than on item--

What is the size in amp hours are, each of the batterys you have?

The ones in my posted pictures are 100 amps ea.

3000 Watt inverter and 200 amph batteries. What we noticed is that while on shore power and good sun the batteries where being drawn down, as per the Victron battery Controller. Once the sun was gone the batteries slowly charged again while on shore power. While on shore power the batteries where charging with 10 amps and about 40 amps with the generator.
The coach will go back to the dealer to figure that out.

[AStrand]

As far a my refrigerator/freezer, they are dual purpose and run off propane when not on shore power. IMO much more efficient. I have a 21' Cherokee Wolf Pup with 1 Battle Born 100Ah (118Ah actual) 12v battery. I changed inverter/charger to a Progressive Dynamics 30A replacement for my stock charger. Our latest test we went 4 days, not enough sun for solar, and ran the generator for 2 hours total.

[PUDDLEPIRATE]

Originally Posted by msusslin

3000 Watt inverter and 200 amph batteries. What we noticed is that while on shore power and good sun the batteries where being drawn down, as per the Victron battery Controller. Once the sun was gone the batteries slowly charged again while on shore power. While on shore power the batteries where charging with 10 amps and about 40 amps with the generator.
The coach will go back to the dealer to figure that out.

Holly crap---not enough battery is the first thing that is coming to mind.

I have a 1000 watt unit doing its job.

That 3000 watt unit may be tied into you main panel and will not let those batteries last at all.

I would have at least a 65 amp home charging unit working when on shore power or larger, these battle borns can handle 100 amps charging each.

The next thing is was the victron charger programed for those batteries , to what the manufacturer settings should be? Probably not--that can make some difference---

Also put up more panels--they say 150 watts per Battery is a base rule of thumb or more--

[leencopa]

I basically have the same setup as you. I have a 4-way switch on my batteries so that I can isolate and use one at a time. This weekend I dry camp two days. I put 6 bottles of frozen water in the fridge and turned the inverter on for about and a half on my way to my destination arriving about noon. I ran the inverter for about an hour late afternoon and again in the evening. My current was showing about 9 amps with the inverter on running the fridge and half an amp when the inverter was shut off. On the second day I ran the inverter for an hour again in the morning, afternoon and evening. After the evening run the first battery was at 20 percent so I switched to the second battery. We departed the next day at 1 pm and the second battery was at 80%. It was a short drive to another CG where I had a full hookup to dump tanks, get some fresh water and tech and recharge batteries. When we arrived there was still some ice in the baottled water. It took about 30 to recharge the battery which was at 80% and 2 hours to recharge the 20% battery. I wanted to turn off the LG refrig so I could check how much current the inverter was drawing with no refrig load, but could not find a way to do that on the LG. When I run the refrig with external power on a Bluetooth generator, it shows no load after initial start up with the refrig running. This suggests the refrig is only drawing a couple of amps. If it were drawing 9 amps, it should be showing 20% load. So I’m really wondering how much of the 9 amps is due to the refrig and how much is due to the inverter itself.

[leencopa]

Forgot to mention, I had a small generator with me but never used it. The Victron was showing about 45 dc amps when the batteries were charging.

[PUDDLEPIRATE]

If you do not have a shunt meter i would highly suggest that you do, it will show all voltage and amp draws on the batterys

[PUDDLEPIRATE]

Here's the model I have installed, it tells me exactly what is going on at all times with the batterys

[msusslin]

Originally Posted by PUDDLEPIRATE

Holly crap---not enough battery is the first thing that is coming to mind.

I have a 1000 watt unit doing its job.

That 3000 watt unit may be tied into you main panel and will not let those batteries last at all.

I would have at least a 65 amp home charging unit working when on shore power or larger, these battle borns can handle 100 amps charging each.

The next thing is was the victron charger programed for those batteries , to what the manufacturer settings should be? Probably not--that can make some difference---

Also put up more panels--they say 150 watts per Battery is a base rule of thumb or more--

I don’t understand why a battery charger is needed while on shore power? Can you explain that please. I did notice that while on shore power the batteries were drawing down per the Victron controller.
Never been to good understanding electric stuff.

We have 800 W of solar installed.

[msusslin]

Originally Posted by PUDDLEPIRATE

If you do not have a shunt meter i would highly suggest that you do, it will show all voltage and amp draws on the batterys

We have the Victron controller factory installed.

[leencopa]

Originally Posted by PUDDLEPIRATE

If you do not have a shunt meter i would highly suggest that you do, it will show all voltage and amp draws on the batterys

I have a Victron and monitor voltage, amps, amp hours remaining on battery, amp hours used etc. on my smartphone

[PUDDLEPIRATE]

Originally Posted by msusslin

I don’t understand why a battery charger is needed while on shore power? Can you explain that please. I did notice that while on shore power the batteries were drawing down per the Victron controller.
Never been to good understanding electric stuff.

We have 800 W of solar installed.

The question is why are you plugged into shore power and not using it?

When you are plugged into shore, your battery bank should be charging and or topped off at all times unless you need the the battery bank to take over when you dont have shore power or loose it-- A lot of the new inverters have a built in charging system no-a days ---- it would help a lot to take pictures and post them-- so we can see and answer your questions better.

[PUDDLEPIRATE]

Originally Posted by PUDDLEPIRATE

The question is why are you plugged into shore power and not using it?

When you are plugged into shore, your battery bank should be charging and or topped off at all times unless you need the the battery bank to take over when you dont have shore power or loose it-- A lot of the new inverters have a built in charging system no-a days ---- it would help a lot to take pictures and post them-- so we can see and answer your questions better.

Heres the request---take pictures of the controller, and post it here so we can see what you have.

Take pictures of the inverter , post them here again.

Take pictures of the Batteries and the wiring of them and post it here.

Take pictures of the plastic box that has all you circuit breakers post it here.

And take pictures of the any meters you have and again post them here, thats about the only way we can answer your questions---

You have seen mine, now show me yours--- LOL

[babock]

Originally Posted by msusslin

How do you know if the solar is charging the batteries ?

What controllers do you have?

[PUDDLEPIRATE]

Originally Posted by babock

What controllers do you have?

He says he has a Victron with blue tooth, and 800 watts of solar, so I am guessing its a 150/85 or less.

I know mine which is a Victron 150/85 was programed for the type of batterys I have and it can make a difference

[babock]

Originally Posted by PUDDLEPIRATE

He says he has a Victron with blue tooth, and 800 watts of solar, so I am guessing its a 150/85 or less.

I know mine which is a Victron 150/85 was programed for the type of batterys I have and it can make a difference

Yep...didn't the last page where he stated this.

Would be nice to do a screenshot of his controller and monitor with all the settings he has set.

[evalbert]

I'm still confused why RVs are coming with residential compressor fridges - I guess it is because most current RV buyers are only interested in "GLAMPING" or just full service RV parks? Maybe RV dealers aren't asking "why do you want an RV?" anymore. Mine asked me and when I told him I wanted to volunteer in state parks, national parks, camping in remote areas, and drive to Alaska, no mention was made of anything but a RV fridge that would run on gas and electric. While the RV type isn't as efficient in some high temperatures, it generally does OK. I think makers and dealers need to be more clear on advantages of proper fridge for actual desired use.

[PUDDLEPIRATE]

Originally Posted by evalbert

I'm still confused why RVs are coming with residential compressor fridges - I guess it is because most current RV buyers are only interested in "GLAMPING" or just full service RV parks? Maybe RV dealers aren't asking "why do you want an RV?" anymore. Mine asked me and when I told him I wanted to volunteer in state parks, national parks, camping in remote areas, and drive to Alaska, no mention was made of anything but a RV fridge that would run on gas and electric. While the RV type isn't as efficient in some high temperatures, it generally does OK. I think makers and dealers need to be more clear on advantages of proper fridge for actual desired use.

Agree-- I was told by the factory they are putting them in the RV's to sell them, Me i have had nothing but slide problems with the side by side installed at the very end of the slide--what have i done about it, I have removed it from the slide-22cu ft- 350 pounds, converting it to a 11 cu ft, ( 117 pounds) elect model and relocating it between the RV frame rails-- and guess what, no more slide problems, hope to be finished with in a week.The recessed wall hole that is black is were the 11 cu ft fridge is going, had to run new electric from the inverter there, perfect fit, been a pain in the butt-- but no more slide issue's --Swinteck what a pain---

[msusslin]

Originally Posted by evalbert

I'm still confused why RVs are coming with residential compressor fridges - I guess it is because most current RV buyers are only interested in "GLAMPING" or just full service RV parks? Maybe RV dealers aren't asking "why do you want an RV?" anymore. Mine asked me and when I told him I wanted to volunteer in state parks, national parks, camping in remote areas, and drive to Alaska, no mention was made of anything but a RV fridge that would run on gas and electric. While the RV type isn't as efficient in some high temperatures, it generally does OK. I think makers and dealers need to be more clear on advantages of proper fridge for actual desired use.

We were told that with 800W solar and 200 AMPH lithium batteries(will add 2 more) we should be ok with a residential refrigerator. We had a RV propane electric refrigerator in our last RV but had issues with temperature nor being consistent especially when it got hot outside. We of course have a great generator for low sun days but all we want to make sure is that we have enough battery power to have the refrigerator on during the night with no generator assistance, while boondocking. I hope that this will work and we did not get the wrong info from the dealer.