30amp vs 50 amp

[LegacyFB38]

Originally Posted by G Hollingsworth

... The new one has a more sophisticated unit which auto recognizes 50/30/20/15 amp supply and adjusts accordingly.

How does it differentiate between 30/20/15 amp supply?

[jkoenig24]

A 50A service has TWO, INDEPENDENT, 50A lines. 50A on Line #1 + 50A on Line #2 = 100A TOTAL AMPS (you will only get 240VAC if the pedestal is wired improperly). Confirm this with a DMM. Set the scale tp 600VAC. A test lead from Line #1 or Line #2 to the Ground or Neutral will show ~ 120VAC. A test lead from Line #1 TO Line #2 should show ~ 240VAC. ALWAYS check the pedestal with a NCVT (Non-Contact Voltage Tester). According to Mike Sokol, this is currently the ONLY way to check for a potentially deadly condition Mike Sokol is calling Reverse Polarity Bootleg Ground (check Mike's YouTube video which clearly demonstrates RPBG).

30A service is just that, 30A.

[BillyBass]

Originally Posted by Blackrock

My 5th wheel with one air conditioner is set up for 50amp but I usually just use a 50-30 pigtail and my 30a cable to the 30a socket on the pedestal. It's a lot easier than lugging that 50a cable around. Everything works just fine.

I am set up for three months in an RV resort right now so for that I am using the 50a (Python) cable.

o agree myself only got one a.c. and I never had a problem with kicking a 30 amp

[FFred]

Most folks simply go to an RV store and purchase a 50 to 30 adapter.

Since there all the same only one leg of the campground 240 v will be used by many folks.

If you understand electric you can make up your own 50-30 adapter that uses the OTHER leg of the campground supply.

This leg will frequently give higher voltage to your camper and all your electric goodies will be happier.

[frank4711]

we have had several 30amp only sites .... very simple WH to LP and Frig to LP and one a/c never a issue .... but one one thing do not make coffee while using the hair dryer ... you should miss nothing ....

[Flybob]

Originally Posted by cboss

Here's a cheater, but it does not always work.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Heavy-P...02509154&psc=1

If the pedestal and wire to it are protected upstream by a 30A breaker in a locked location ( many do) and you draw a total of more than 30A you could be without power for a while until the facilities people come to reset the breaker.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by wmtire

30 amps X 120 volts = 3600 watts

50 amps X 240 volts = 12000 watts

So he will be missing 8400 watts worth of capability. Lol

Well check out the big brain on this guy over here.

[fella10]

One way to make life a little less uncomfortable when trying to control amp use is to put in an inside switch for the water heater, ... yeah I know yall all have propane to go to, but we don't and I am pretty sure there are even times when you choose not to use gas because, "why waste our propane when we don't have to, we've got electricity here?", ... the best I remember, the water heater draws something like 11 to maybe 13 amps and can be "on" at anytime, WITHOUT YOU KNOWING IT, ... when you're in a situation where monitoring your amp use is necessary, it's so easy to go flip the water heater switch "off"(without having to go outside to do so) for a few minutes when you're going to use the microwave or any other device with high amp draw, ... or even leave it off for longer periods of time, maybe all day and just flip it on 30 min. before shower time and then leave it on during the night while sleeping, ... the inside switch is just a simple mod, and having such convenient control, IF needed, over our electrical use, makes our trailer time a little more enjoyable, ...

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by fella10

One way to make life a little less uncomfortable when trying to control amp use is to put in an inside switch for the water heater, ... yeah I know yall all have propane to go to, but we don't and I am pretty sure there are even times when you choose not to use gas because, "why waste our propane when we don't have to, we've got electricity here?", ... the best I remember, the water heater draws something like 11 to maybe 13 amps and can be "on" at anytime, WITHOUT YOU KNOWING IT, ... when you're in a situation where monitoring your amp use is necessary, it's so easy to go flip the water heater switch "off"(without having to go outside to do so) for a few minutes when you're going to use the microwave or any other device with high amp draw, ... or even leave it off for longer periods of time, maybe all day and just flip it on 30 min. before shower time and then leave it on during the night while sleeping, ... the inside switch is just a simple mod, and having such convenient control, IF needed, over our electrical use, makes our trailer time a little more enjoyable, ...

That might work for some, but not needed on a Dynamax.

1. The 3,4,5 Series and Force ALL have Truma. So that is LP only, but ON-Demand. So it is not wasting LP keeping water warm when not needed. It only fires up when needed.

2. The DX3 and XL have diesel Aqua-hots. So you are running off the tank and there is already a switch for the electric side of the heating element. Even the old DX3's that had an LP Aqua-Hot had an electric element switch.

[fella10]

Originally Posted by bclemens

That might work for some, but not needed on a Dynamax.

1. The 3,4,5 Series and Force ALL have Truma. So that is LP only, but ON-Demand. So it is not wasting LP keeping water warm when not needed. It only fires up when needed.

2. The DX3 and XL have diesel Aqua-hots. So you are running off the tank and there is already a switch for the electric side of the heating element. Even the old DX3's that had an LP Aqua-Hot had an electric element switch.

Well if your RV already has some way for you to control your amp use, fine, ... but we all didn't spend over $100,000. for our campers, ...

[bclemens]

Nor did all Dynamax owners.

[fella10]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Nor did all Dynamax owners.

Since you want to play with the dollar figure, ...

I'll restate it this way, ... we don't all have Cadillac campers, ... some of us have Fords and Chevy's, and some even Kia's and Yugo's, ... If I did have one of those Cadillac campers, I'm sure there are several mods that I wouldn't have taken the time to do, ...

[wmtire]

Let's keep this thread on topic and moving forward.

[bclemens]

I'm not playing anything. I have no issue with your post and I think it is a good idea, I was just pointing out, since this is a Dynamax specific forum, that it would not be needed. I didn't want someone with a Dynamax to assume that if they put a switch in for the water heater electrical that they could gain any benefit. Often times, people do not realize they are in a sub-forum and as opposed to deleting a post, that can provide a benefit, I simply point out that it may not be relevant to their product.

I don't think that has anything to do with the price of the vehicle. There are many 5th wheels that would benefit from this that cost more than a Dynamax. There are also less expensive campers that might have a Truma.

[Webefine]

My 2015 DX3 does not have a switch inside the Rv for my electric element in my hot water heater. I’m going to add one, I really think this is something that should have been on an Rv of this level. Both of my previous truck campers had them.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Webefine

My 2015 DX3 does not have a switch inside the Rv for my electric element in my hot water heater. I’m going to add one, I really think this is something that should have been on an Rv of this level. Both of my previous truck campers had them.

Bet it has a breaker in your 120 volt panel...just for the WH.

[formerFR]

right, while 'some' coaches DO provide an internal switch, sometimes which is the ONLY switch, the circuit breaker can also act as a 'switch' since typically the Water Heater is the ONLY thing on that circuit.

the other option is this: don't worry about it - leave the electric element switch outside ON, because essentially the ONLY time it will be working is when you are PLUGGED INTO shore power anyway.

[formerFR]

as for answering the 'original' concern about plugging a 50amp coach into a 30amp outlet, the answer is really simple:

70 amps.


I think the concern, or confusion, that many 'new' to the RVing world, or even just 'new' to having only a 30amp power connection, is one of thinking that somehow the RV will 'explode', or otherwise will decide for 'itself' what can and can't be 'used' while only on 30amp power.
Essentially, the answer is that both provide the same 'power' - 120volts.
The only difference, and the only thing that has changed, is the size of the BREAKER.

One breaker is 50amps(which is actually TWO 50amp breakers, or 100amps total), and
the other is only 30amps(a single 30amp breaker).

The power is no 'different', because everything in your coach is a 120v 'appliance' or 'device', but the AMOUNT of things you can run, all at the SAME TIME, is different, since AMPS is how 'much' power you are using. Your breaker will decide 'when' you have used too much!

A breaker is simply a protective device to keep the AMPS from overheating the size of wiring that runs between the breaker and the appliance, or device, that needs power. Larger breakers are provided for larger wires, smaller breakers work with smaller wires, etc.

Can you still run BOTH of your roof air conditioners at the same time. Probably.
Can you then ALSO run the Microwave to make a snack, at the same time? Maybe not.
If the main SHore Power breaker TRIPS, then, no, you're simply using 'too much' power all at the same time for the 30amp breaker.
If the main Shore Power breaker does NOT trip, then you are good to go.

Using 'less' electricity, otherwise a smaller BREAKER, such as the 30amp campground outlet that is more common to most RVrs, is simply just doing 'less' things at the same time.
Sometimes you can run both air conditioners, and sometimes you'll need to shut one off WHILE you run the microwave, or if you ALSO want the water heater to use it's electric element to heat your water for a shower, or while you ALSO want the battery charger to be charging the House batteries, etc.
You learn, after some time, what YOU can do in YOUR coach while on 'less than 50amp service'. It will be different for most everyone, because few situations are ever 'exactly' the same, though they may 'seem' to be, at first glance.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by Webefine

My 2015 DX3 does not have a switch inside the Rv for my electric element in my hot water heater. I’m going to add one, I really think this is something that should have been on an Rv of this level. Both of my previous truck campers had them.

As a builder, I’m not sure I agree. It’s 50/50, if you have seen how many elements get burned out because someone turns that switch on with no water in the tank.

[formerFR]

I suppose the thought is that if the owner must 'switch' the electric element AT the water heater, that it might more easily keep owners from 'forgetting' when they are plugged into power, but have not yet filled the tank from last winter's draining, etc...

but, I suggest that it really doesn't matter 'if' you have a switch at the tank, a switch inside the coach, or both, as the owner really has to remember, either way, if a drained water heater is the subject of the problem.

When not plugged into shore power(or no onboard generator is in use), the electric water heater is essentially switched 'off', anyway. The only difference with leaving it switched 'on', whether at the water heater, OR inside the coach, is that it will 'automatically' be switched back ON when shore power is in play(or onboard generator).
This 'automatically' on is probably why the factory may think that it may be best to only provide a switch AT the water heater itself, though mine has only an inside switch, so I guess 'my' factory made the decision that owners need to be responsible for their own systems, how they camp, etc, or whether they even EVER drain their water heater tanks.

My interior switch can stay on 24/7. Even if I drain my tank once per year, and am 'worried' that I might forget to refill it first during the next spring's 'start' of the season, I can turn the interior switch off when it's in storage, while it's winterized, and while there's no water in the tank.

Whether you have a switch ON the water heater only, inside the coach only, or both, probably doesn't change anything for the 'risk' that someone might leave the element 'on' when there is no water in the tank.


enjoy ! : )