Added 1140 more watts of Solar to our 34KD

[Jetguy]

Originally Posted by V6TOY4X

Couple questions;


What is the nominal voltage of your panels?
Are they wired in series or parallel?
Is your controller a PWM base or MPPT, I may have missed that, if so I apologize for the rehash.

Panels are 12v

Wired in a series I’m 99% sure. I seen 45-65 ish volts coming off the panels depending on the sun.

I have two 60 amp MPPT controllers as I may try to get two more panels up there down the road

[Bill Davis]

I just installed 400 watts on my 2008 Dynaquest 340XL.

[twp5253]

Originally Posted by Bill Davis

I just installed 400 watts on my 2008 Dynaquest 340XL.

Those rigid panels are only 100 watts each? Did you use screws through the roof?

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by twp5253

Those rigid panels are only 100 watts each? Did you use screws through the roof?

Yes, 100 watts each. I used VHB tape on the bottom of the brackets then screwed them down with stainless screws. Then I covered the base and screws with Dycor. I was going to use 3M 5200 but was afraid if I ever have to replace a panel I wouldn’t be able to remove the brackets without damaging the roof.

[Invisibleman]

Very interesting. I was going to add two Renogy 175w flex panels. But hearing the cooling factor, I believe I will go with rigid. Leaning towards 2x200w. I already ordered a Renogy 60a MPPT controller that I believe will fit on the wall in place of the stock one. That will give me 600w plus the upgraded controller. I'll keep the two new 4d AGMs as just cant justify the cost of new batts, at least until I try this out and get some more experience. But this has been one of the best threads yet.

[Rancher Rob]

I'm in the process of installing six of those 200w renogy panels on my 2019 XL. We're mounting it on aluminum uni strut for secure mounting and flexible positioning as well as getting air under them for cooling/efficiency. I'll hopefully have it done this week. One question, do you attach 4 brackets or 6 brackets per panel? I'm kinda leaning towards 6 because then the bracket spacing puts brackets closer to the leading edge to counter uplift. Not to mention, it's a lot cheaper to pay for the extra mounting brackets and hardware than for the car and people behind you of a panel flies off. I'm still gonna put on a safety tether on each panel anyway.

[Invisibleman]

Where'd you get the panels? I'm ordering everything on Amazon. I understand the roof is plywood? Thickness? What size screws are you planning for attaching the unistrut? Are you using adhesive tape under the unistrut as well? Dacor lap seal as well? BTW, the unistrut is a great idea. As far as brackets, more is better I'd think.
New solar controller?

[DrMikeG]

Beautiful rig - interesting series of posts.

[TheF1sh]

Originally Posted by Invisibleman

I understand the roof is plywood? Thickness?

1/2” plywood

[twp5253]

Originally Posted by Rancher Rob

I'm in the process of installing six of those 200w renogy panels on my 2019 XL. We're mounting it on aluminum uni strut for secure mounting and flexible positioning as well as getting air under them for cooling/efficiency. I'll hopefully have it done this week. One question, do you attach 4 brackets or 6 brackets per panel? I'm kinda leaning towards 6 because then the bracket spacing puts brackets closer to the leading edge to counter uplift. Not to mention, it's a lot cheaper to pay for the extra mounting brackets and hardware than for the car and people behind you of a panel flies off. I'm still gonna put on a safety tether on each panel anyway.

I am looking forward to some pictures! Thank you in advance

[Rancher Rob]

I ordered the solar panels on amazon. But the prices fluctuated from $275 to $325

For the uni strut hardware (all aluminum) I used 3m VHB to secure it to roof plus one screw on leading end of each rail.

I ordered on hardware from McMaster-Carr:
bolts and washers and nuts to connect cross members to rails.


Brackets, bolts and nuts (nut for inside panel frame channel) to connect elbow brackets to cross members and panels.

I bought the unistrut on amazon but it is a lot cheaper on Mcmaster.

I can't guarantee I have it all right as I haven't installed it yet but it'll give you a good start. Aluminum is getting freakin expensive though (along with everything else) at $3/bolt!?

[Rancher Rob]

Originally Posted by Invisibleman

What size screws are you planning for attaching the unistrut? Are you using adhesive tape under the unistrut as well? Dacor lap seal as well?
New solar controller?

Used one 1" long 1/4" hex head wood screw per unistrut rail. I may be wrong but I figure the VHB tape will seal it so no Dacor at present.

I just put in a big solar controller (way over sized for panels I have) but didn't know at the time how I was going to wire it (series v. parallel) what panels, how many, etc so just oversized for whatever I might want to add in the future.

[Invisibleman]

Geez Rob, those cables are beefy, #4 or #6?. How'd you get them down from the roof to the battery bay?

[Rancher Rob]

2 Awg boat wire. Didn't really need marine grade tinned but after seeing the corrosion from driving on salted roads, I figured cry once.

2 awg is the largest size the lugs on that controller can handle so I went big for minimal losses. Just ran it right up the hollow pilaster electronics cabinet behind the driver seat, then over to a nearby speaker hole and going to drill new hole to roof. I'll post pics later. I'm still waiting to make up the combiner box for the roof when the waterproof jbox come in.

[Invisibleman]

That's a good point. Basic PVC box with gasketed cover? Or something more specific?
Now you have me curious about that wiring chase, some I'm going to have to open up those panels and explore. Thinking it might work for getting 1/4" airline up to the roof for a couple of those nice Hadley horns they put on the XLs. Keep looking at that pull cable for the air horn wondering how they ran that. Maybe it's lurking in the same chase.

[Invisibleman]

I have two rigid 175w Renogy panels (didn't notice the 200s or would have gotten them), to add to the existing factory 2x100 flex panels, and a Renogy MPPT Rover 40w controller. I was wondering two things. On the existing factory setup the panel wires go into a slopped JB of some sort on the roof that looks like it is glued (Dicor) down. I haven't tried to pry that up yet. Are there connectors in there the new parallel connections can be made up to? How are you guys securing the panel leads across the roof? A blob of Dicor here and there? I think I have everything I need to start this. Just waiting for the right weather as I don't have cover to work under (sure wish I did). Once I get the hang of this I may add more, but for now, all I am mostly interested in keeping my refer running when not connected to shore power when its parked for a week or so. Nothing worse than no ice cubes.

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by Invisibleman

I have two rigid 175w Renogy panels (didn't notice the 200s or would have gotten them), to add to the existing factory 2x100 flex panels, and a Renogy MPPT Rover 40w controller. I was wondering two things. On the existing factory setup the panel wires go into a slopped JB of some sort on the roof that looks like it is glued (Dicor) down. I haven't tried to pry that up yet. Are there connectors in there the new parallel connections can be made up to? How are you guys securing the panel leads across the roof? A blob of Dicor here and there? I think I have everything I need to start this. Just waiting for the right weather as I don't have cover to work under (sure wish I did). Once I get the hang of this I may add more, but for now, all I am mostly interested in keeping my refer running when not connected to shore power when its parked for a week or so. Nothing worse than no ice cubes.

I would think you could just connect to the existing connectors on the flex panels and not penetrate the roof again as long as you purchased the same brand of panels. As far as the cables are concerned a dollop of Dicor should do the trick.

[Invisibleman]

I'll have to take a look when I'm up there, but I don't recall seeing the connectors, which is why I am wondering if they are in the little junction box looking thing. I am definitely avoiding any new roof penetrations on my new roof.

[Rancher Rob]

Originally Posted by Invisibleman

Basic PVC box with gasketed cover? Or something more specific?

My previously ordered jbox for the combiner box didn't work out so I'm trying this one.

[Invisibleman]

PVC would be a whole lot easier for punching holes and mounting.