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05-18-2021, 01:59 PM
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#1
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Norwood Auto Italia
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Montana & TX
Posts: 1,493
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Alternator battery charge rate - Isata 5
I know there have been several threads discussing the Generator charge rate and I believe this has been solved with a software upgrade to the Firefly interface. However, I do not recall nor have found threads discussing the charge rate from the dual alternator setup on these trucks. I had cause on a recent trip to monitor this and discovered that despite being able to get 100% charge rates at only an 80% discharged battery set from the Generator, the Alternators could only provide a 30% (and mostly no more than a 10%) charge rate.
So the question is do we have to change the charge parameters to get the LiPo battery (Explorer model) to accept a charge rate of more than 30%? Has anyone seen anything different?
__________________
2000 Sportsmobile E350 EB
2006 Renegade/Peterbilt K1854 and T1220
2021 Isata 5 28SS Explorer
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05-18-2021, 02:16 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 575
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What charge rate are you seeing from the alternators, actual amps? I'd check it against the output curve that Ram publishes for the dual alternator setup. They surely don't make 440 amps all the time, and the chassis sucks up some current with all it's electronics.
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05-18-2021, 02:22 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlamgat
So the question is do we have to change the charge parameters to get the LiPo battery (Explorer model) to accept a charge rate of more than 30%? Has anyone seen anything different?
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Since a 30% charge rate is normal for Lead/Acid batteries I would guess that you are on the right track that parameters need to be changed. Does your instruction manual provide any guidance on setting up for LiFePo4 batteries?
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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05-18-2021, 03:20 PM
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#4
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,971
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Let's not forget that the chassis still has lead acid batteries. In the 20 years I have been doing this, I have never had an issue with the chassis not properly taking care of the batteries and being fully charged on arrival.
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05-18-2021, 06:36 PM
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#5
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Norwood Auto Italia
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Montana & TX
Posts: 1,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
Let's not forget that the chassis still has lead acid batteries. In the 20 years I have been doing this, I have never had an issue with the chassis not properly taking care of the batteries and being fully charged on arrival.
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Excellent point! Of course I am talking LiPo in my case and the analysis was done before first light - 4 AM. Had spent the night at a Rest Stop on an Interstate with Inverter on, Sat antenna off but the other antennas on plus accent lights and other residuals. Victron reported 62%. Started up the truck and saw 30% Charge. So 30% of what? Battery capacity in Ah; Alternator output; Maximum accepted by the Magnum? Does the Chassis actually direct its charge directly through the Isolator module and the Firefly just reports what it sees? In which case what is it referencing/reporting?
__________________
2000 Sportsmobile E350 EB
2006 Renegade/Peterbilt K1854 and T1220
2021 Isata 5 28SS Explorer
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05-19-2021, 07:45 AM
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#6
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,971
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Understand you are talking lithium, but the alternator is really there just to charge the chassis batteries and its profile is set for that. We just happen to use some of that extra power as an aux source for the batteries, it will likely not be an ideal charge (but often more than needed). The charge line is back fed from the line that goes to the batteries from the Li-BIM. The Li-Bim is handling the connection only, the alternator would determine the charge so it should treat it like a lead acid battery.
Logic would lead me to believe that the Firefly is reading that charge line as a % of what is available from the Magnum invertor/charger, but I'll confirm with the EE at some point.
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05-19-2021, 10:06 AM
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#7
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,971
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As expected the Firefly isn't really set up to monitor the charge rate from the chassis. We will talk to them a out setting that to 0% when the charger is not available.
Best bet to see charging is on the Victron app which should display the amount of amps passing into the batteries.
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05-19-2021, 03:12 PM
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#8
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Norwood Auto Italia
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Montana & TX
Posts: 1,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
As expected the Firefly isn't really set up to monitor the charge rate from the chassis. We will talk to them a out setting that to 0% when the charger is not available.
Best bet to see charging is on the Victron app which should display the amount of amps passing into the batteries.
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Makes sense. It is confusing as presently set up. I think your earlier comment about the alternator regulator defining the amount of charge it will provide to the Coach (and the trailer if connected) makes infinite sense. A logic which completely bypasses the I/C and the Firefly.
It seems that this question has been of little concern to other owners yet I still wonder how this intel could be distributed for the future.
__________________
2000 Sportsmobile E350 EB
2006 Renegade/Peterbilt K1854 and T1220
2021 Isata 5 28SS Explorer
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05-19-2021, 03:27 PM
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#9
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,971
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I think many look at the gauge on their chassis dash, 14.4 volts, car starts. They ask does the alternator charge the house batteries? Yes. That's the last concern they give unless there is a problem.
Most people (I find) realize that the house charger is set up to charge the house batteries first and then then throw some at the chassis batteries when camping to prevent it from going dead. On the flip side most also realize the chassis alternator is set up to charge the chassis batteries first and then throw some of the extra at the house during transit. I don't think most people are worried about knowing all the details of how that happens....just that it continues to do so.
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05-20-2021, 09:44 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 645
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Victron app is my Electron god...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
As expected the Firefly isn't really set up to monitor the charge rate from the chassis. We will talk to them a out setting that to 0% when the charger is not available.
Best bet to see charging is on the Victron app which should display the amount of amps passing into the batteries.
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__________________
2021 (Dec) Dynamax Isata 30 FW Xplorer
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05-22-2021, 04:20 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V6TOY4X
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Cheaper to just install a DC-DC charger like offerings from Renogy, Sterling, Redarc, etc.
Designed specifically for this type of application with no modifications to alternator charging system.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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05-22-2021, 07:34 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Cheaper to just install a DC-DC charger like offerings from Renogy, Sterling, Redarc, etc.
Designed specifically for this type of application with no modifications to alternator charging system.
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Ohh, missed all of this, thanks I love new gadgets.
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05-22-2021, 07:48 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Cheaper to just install a DC-DC charger like offerings from Renogy, Sterling, Redarc, etc.
Designed specifically for this type of application with no modifications to alternator charging system.
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x2 i installed DC-DC charger from Renogy, easy 60 min install
__________________
2019 FR3 33DS Motorhome
650 Watts Solar, 400Ah LIFEPO4, 2000 Watt Inverter, 40A DC/DC Charger, SumoSprings, Roadmaster Steering Stabilizer, BlueOx Trac Bar, Truma AquaGo WH, NVIDIA Shield TV
Days Camping
2019 57:2020 20:2021 30:2022 46:2023 47:2024 7
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05-22-2021, 07:52 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Cheaper to just install a DC-DC charger like offerings from Renogy, Sterling, Redarc, etc.
Designed specifically for this type of application with no modifications to alternator charging system.
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I just took a quick look at dc/dc they seem to be based on smaller output 30-40amps including victron? Am I missing something?
If you are running Lithium, isn't one of the big advantages their ability to take high amperage quick charging? If you have a 400-500AH bank limiting charge current to 30-40amps kind defeats the purpose??
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05-22-2021, 08:00 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robo44
x2 i installed DC-DC charger from Renogy, easy 60 min install
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what is the max charging current?
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05-22-2021, 08:54 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V6TOY4X
what is the max charging current?
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Renogy offers these in 20 amp 40 amp and 60 amp sizes. They recommend each size based on alternator sizes.
Most LiFePo4 batteries have a max charge rate of .5 C so you'd only want a 40 amp size unit for a single LiFePo4 100ah battery.
Lead acid batteries have their charge current taper off fairly soon and really only accept a charge rate of .2C to .3C. A DC-DC charger matched to your alternator size as recommended by Renogy, for example, would charge your batteries easily while driving from site to site without overloading anything.
They work as battery isolators and NO MOVING PARTS other than cooling fans. No Solenoids.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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05-22-2021, 09:56 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Renogy offers these in 20 amp 40 amp and 60 amp sizes. They recommend each size based on alternator sizes.
Most LiFePo4 batteries have a max charge rate of .5 C so you'd only want a 40 amp size unit for a single LiFePo4 100ah battery.
Lead acid batteries have their charge current taper off fairly soon and really only accept a charge rate of .2C to .3C. A DC-DC charger matched to your alternator size as recommended by Renogy, for example, would charge your batteries easily while driving from site to site without overloading anything.
They work as battery isolators and NO MOVING PARTS other than cooling fans. No Solenoids.
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So for a 4-500 ah bank that is not a solution if you are looking to take advantage of diesel dual alt setup with 400 amps available and do a quick top off in bad weather or if you hit a few days of no sun or don't want to run generator. They look like a good solution to insure proper top off while on the highway.
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05-22-2021, 11:30 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V6TOY4X
So for a 4-500 ah bank that is not a solution if you are looking to take advantage of diesel dual alt setup with 400 amps available and do a quick top off in bad weather or if you hit a few days of no sun or don't want to run generator. They look like a good solution to insure proper top off while on the highway.
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If you want more, you can, according to an Australian company Projecta, connect DC-DC chargers in parallel. Same type/size and you get up to double power. Need to size input wire for combined current draw. As for stage regulation, during bulk phase they just go " full throttle" and when approaching full charge they'll shut down to lower rate when each one's slightly different voltage is reached. On LiFePo4 there's usually only one voltage.
Yoy still need to follow max charge rate parameters for the battery type.
There's more info with a google search.
Things to consider, as stated wire sizes need to be adequate for each unit at its max draw, and cooling in space mounted needs to be adequate for twice the heat of one.
FWIW, two 60 amp Renogy units will cost less than a single smaller unit from Sterling, Redarc, and Victron.
For a 500 amp bank of Lithium batteries the max rate would be 250 amp and it would take just over 2 hours from dead to charged. How often would that large a battery bank be that dead? Two hours at 120 amp would be pretty noticable.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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05-23-2021, 09:47 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
If you want more, you can, according to an Australian company Projecta, connect DC-DC chargers in parallel. Same type/size and you get up to double power. Need to size input wire for combined current draw. As for stage regulation, during bulk phase they just go " full throttle" and when approaching full charge they'll shut down to lower rate when each one's slightly different voltage is reached. On LiFePo4 there's usually only one voltage.
Yoy still need to follow max charge rate parameters for the battery type.
There's more info with a google search.
Things to consider, as stated wire sizes need to be adequate for each unit at its max draw, and cooling in space mounted needs to be adequate for twice the heat of one.
FWIW, two 60 amp Renogy units will cost less than a single smaller unit from Sterling, Redarc, and Victron.
For a 500 amp bank of Lithium batteries the max rate would be 250 amp and it would take just over 2 hours from dead to charged. How often would that large a battery bank be that dead? Two hours at 120 amp would be pretty noticable.
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Thanks, quite familiar with the intricacies of lithium and charging.
I have been running lithium for probably 6 years now, my current set up is 180AH CALB CELLS wired (4) cells in series (3) strings in parallel for 540AH 12volt nom bank with "B SMART" BMS. CALB CELLS, can charge at 1C and discharge at 2C.
4-250 watt 47volt panasonic residential panels, 2 strings of 2 panels in series so a 94volt system, through Magnum PT100 controller, magnum pure sinewave inv/chg (100amp) and the ME_ARC with specific charge setting for the calb cells. And a generator. Either of those having a max design of 100 amps. To do it again it would be all Victron hardware, no doubt.
I have a 5.9 cummins and my last step is going to be to copy the dual alt setup from the 6.7 as a standalone system just for the lithium pack. The intent is for redundancy to the generator and solar with the ability to provide a short charge cycle of 200+ amps for the "OH ****" day when for what ever reason your battery bank has left you high and dry.
I am aiming at a compressor based refrigerator that will not be a pain in the ass in the winter or camping in the mountains dealing with considerable amounts of shade and not wanting to listen to the generator for an hour each day. I have Mechman willing to build the alternator and have decided on the balmar external regulator based on marine applications and experience.
I had somehow skipped over DC/DC in my research, combing 4 or 5 of them in series does not make sense to me. Just like running multiple MPPTs vs one large one, however there are arguments that can be made for that.
Carry on, sorry for side tracking OPs thread.
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