Anyone recommend a wood stain match for the Dynamax ““Early American Cherry Wood”

[BLT4SPD]

We have a 2019 Isata 5 35DB with the “Early American Cherry Wood” cabinetry and wood trim. I have a small project in the works that involves some custom woodwork and I’d like to find a stain that is as close as possible to Dynamax’s. Has anyone had any luck finding something that is close? Brand? Color (or color code)?

Thanks in advance!

[bclemens]

Some have ordered directly from Native Hardwoods here in Elkhart

[MasterBlaster]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

We have a 2019 Isata 5 35DB with the “Early American Cherry Wood” cabinetry and wood trim. I have a small project in the works that involves some custom woodwork and I’d like to find a stain that is as close as possible to Dynamax’s. Has anyone had any luck finding something that is close? Brand? Color (or color code)?



Thanks in advance!

Contact Rick at native Woods he will get you what you need

Rick@NativeHardwoods.com

[TrailWayz]

I ordered my Driftwood stain directly from Dynamax parts. $60 shipped.

[KRedburn]

contact Native Hardwoods Elkhart, Indiana. Rick will set you up.

[Whalenss]

I have used General Finished Black Cherry on cherry wood ( additional trim) and maple for shelves. As it is water based you can get the desired color / coverage based on number of coats and how you wipe it.
Provides a close match.

[BLT4SPD]

Excellent feedback from all! Thanks for the help!

[Paul Dershem]

If you are staining cherry wood, be prepared for some awful blotching unless you seal the wood with a pre-stain conditioner first; virtually all closed-grain (diffuse-porous) hardwoods are blotch prone. When my students completed a finish test piece on wood of the same species as their project, they inevitably saw ugly blotching if they failed to seal before staining; better a blotchy test piece than a ruined project.

Good luck!

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by Paul Dershem

If you are staining cherry wood, be prepared for some awful blotching unless you seal the wood with a pre-stain conditioner first; virtually all closed-grain (diffuse-porous) hardwoods are blotch prone. When my students completed a finish test piece on wood of the same species as their project, they inevitably saw ugly blotching if they failed to seal before staining; better a blotchy test piece than a ruined project.

Good luck!

X2. You will get a much more uniform finish. The wood sealer goes on clear and takes minutes to dry. And as Paul notes, coat scrap pieces of the same wood with the conditioner/sealer and then the stain as a test before applying to your project. I have used soft cloths or cotton socks to coat the sealer and apply the stain. I have also used spray cans of polyurethane for the final finish. The spray prevents any stain dragging that one might get with a brush.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

We have a 2019 Isata 5 35DB with the “Early American Cherry Wood” cabinetry and wood trim. I have a small project in the works that involves some custom woodwork and I’d like to find a stain that is as close as possible to Dynamax’s. Has anyone had any luck finding something that is close? Brand? Color (or color code)?

Thanks in advance!

Take one of your doors off and a raw scrap piece of the wood you will be using to a local Sherwin Williams or other paint store. They will help you match it.

That is what they do for a living

The guy in Elkhart is probably good but he cannot know what Im dealing with down here in S Louisiana

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Take one of your doors off and a raw scrap piece of the wood you will be using to a local Sherwin Williams or other paint store. They will help you match it.

That is what they do for a living

The guy in Elkhart is probably good but he cannot know what Im dealing with down here in S Louisiana

I’ve used Sherwin Williams to match mine, there great.

[KRedburn]

Just a FYI

The "guy" in Elkhart, Indiana at Native Hardwoods happens to be the owner/gm of the company that provides Dynamax with the cabinet front hardwoods in color for the Dynamax product line. So, to get the best match for a custom front add on to match the rest of the cabinets would be the manufacturer of the original hardwood fronts.
I have added a custom drawer after changing from the propane stove top to an induction stove top. I talked with Rick and he provided a custom drawer front stained in color that matched perfectly the existing drawer fronts on my 2018 DX3. The cost of shipping was higher than the drawer front.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Take one of your doors off and a raw scrap piece of the wood you will be using to a local Sherwin Williams or other paint store. They will help you match it.

That is what they do for a living

The guy in Elkhart is probably good but he cannot know what Im dealing with down here in S Louisiana

Originally Posted by Bill Davis

I’ve used Sherwin Williams to match mine, there great.

Thank you gentlemen. There is a Sherman Williams that is semi-close to me, so I may toodle over there. The piece I am making is going to be visually divorced from the original wood pieces in the coach, so it doesn't need to be 100% perfect, but REALLY close would be nice.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

Just a FYI

The "guy" in Elkhart, Indiana at Native Hardwoods happens to be the owner/gm of the company that provides Dynamax with the cabinet front hardwoods in color for the Dynamax product line. So, to get the best match for a custom front add on to match the rest of the cabinets would be the manufacturer of the original hardwood fronts.
I have added a custom drawer after changing from the propane stove top to an induction stove top. I talked with Rick and he provided a custom drawer front stained in color that matched perfectly the existing drawer fronts on my 2018 DX3. The cost of shipping was higher than the drawer front.

This is good info. Thank you.

FYI, I called yesterday and spoke with Jeannnie and was a little taken back by the cost of shipping as well. She said they don't have a hazardous materials license for shipping and they must to use a third party when shipping stains. So, they have a courier come pick it up and take it to their third party shipping company. They then box it and ship it to me. When all is said and done, she thought it would be somewhere around $40 for the shipping plus $16.60 for a quart of stain. If I REALLY needed it to match, I wouldn’t baulk, but I really don’t need a perfect patch AND I don’t really need a quart. A pint would suffice for what I am trying to accomplish, but Jeannie said they ONLY sell quarts, nothing else.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

Thank you gentlemen. There is a Sherman Williams that is semi-close to me, so I may toodle over there. The piece I am making is going to be visually divorced from the original wood pieces in the coach, so it doesn't need to be 100% perfect, but REALLY close would be nice.

When you take the scrap/sample piece of wood you will be using have it sanded and ready to finish just as if it were the actual project piece.

This will help them get the same look as your other sample.