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Old 10-31-2020, 09:17 AM   #1
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Aqua-Hot 400p not igniting

I have been having an ongoing issue with my aquahot 400p igniting for two years now . Sometimes it would light and cycle fine and then stop working, other times try to lite and flame out , and then not light at all . Fan runs but no ignition . My dealer replaced lp regulator . Then Mobil service replaced igniter ,flame sensor,gas valve, burner card,buckbooster , and everything they could think of . They would get it to work and then I would start a week later and no ignition. Lp tank is full , you can smell lp in exhaust , all lights ar ok and green . Yesterday I called Aqua hot myself and when I explained issues the tech asked me if the Aqua hot required exhaust tip was in place , I explained that Dynamax puts a Crome tip and there is no other restrictor . He told me the Aqua hot tip must be in place for fan validation to work correctly. I explained that all other Dynamax units I have seen have same chrome tip installed .Dealer no tech who serviced have ever checked this . Has anyone came across this issue?
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Old 10-31-2020, 09:20 AM   #2
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I'm curious is there a screen that is required to be installed behind the tip? Let the forum know when you get this straightened out.
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Old 10-31-2020, 09:51 AM   #3
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What tip are they referring to? I've never heard of such a thing.

I've had similar problems. The ignighter being the culprit at first. Now I can pretty reliably get it to fire if I run the electric element first to where the unit is "warmed up". No scientific reasoning behind it, but it seems to work pretty reliably. Once the burner fires the first time it continues to do so reliably as long as I dont let it cool down.

All the items replaced sounds like the proper flow chart from what I've seen. That said here's the troubleshooting if you want to look into it further yourself. Unfortunately I never consider other people doing stuff to be a box ticked, rather another place something couldve gotten missed.

http://www.aquahot.com/files/service..._June_2014.pdf
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Old 10-31-2020, 11:59 AM   #4
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verify your vacuum switch is working correctly. should be open when blower is not running.
Also verify the sample tube is intact and connected to the blower housing.

Sounds like the mobile tech did not understand how the system works.
(ie. random replacement of anything electrical)

Take the cover off. tape the interlock switch to imitate the cover being in place.

Have DW or someone turn the burner switch to ON. Switch led should show green.

Blower should turn on buck boost will have a red led lit.
After about 15 seconds the ignitor buck boost will light. You should also hear a relay click.
You should have ignition.

If ignitor buck/boost does not light up at all (it will go out after a short period) then the relay may not have energized.

That is the basics. after this you will need a multi meter to go further.

side note: I leave a piece of tape over the cover interlock switch so that vibration does not affect the closure of that switch. It is only there for detection of cover removed. If it is intermittent or not "adjusted" properly you very well could have a situation of "cover off" being detected.
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOURWHL View Post
What tip are they referring to? I've never heard of such a thing.

I've had similar problems. The ignighter being the culprit at first. Now I can pretty reliably get it to fire if I run the electric element first to where the unit is "warmed up". No scientific reasoning behind it, but it seems to work pretty reliably. Once the burner fires the first time it continues to do so reliably as long as I dont let it cool down.

All the items replaced sounds like the proper flow chart from what I've seen. That said here's the troubleshooting if you want to look into it further yourself. Unfortunately I never consider other people doing stuff to be a box ticked, rather another place something couldve gotten missed.

http://www.aquahot.com/files/service..._June_2014.pdf

In the installation manual.


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I surmise the "tip" creates a slight backpressure in the exhaust which would produce a "greater vacuum" for ignition purposes. BUT, there are over 1000 Dynamax units that do not use this but do use a downturned chrome tip instead.

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Old 10-31-2020, 12:33 PM   #6
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....remain in compliance

Quote:
Originally Posted by KRedburn View Post
In the installation manual.

Attachment 242276

I surmise the "tip" creates a slight backpressure in the exhaust which would produce a "greater vacuum" for ignition purposes. BUT, there are over 1000 Dynamax units that do not use this but do use a downturned chrome tip instead.
"...in order to remain in compliance with the testing agency" means that a group like UL or NFPA tested it that way and approved it that way. They vouch for the safety of it only in that way. It doesn't really reflect on the ignition capability.
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
"...in order to remain in compliance with the testing agency" means that a group like UL or NFPA tested it that way and approved it that way. They vouch for the safety of it only in that way. It doesn't really reflect on the ignition capability.

from previous post (and discussion with AquaHot tech myself)

"He told me the Aqua hot tip must be in place for fan validation to work correctly."

from AquaHot service manual:

 The exhaust tip must be used to prevent burner from
extinguishing in winds up to 40 mph.

Dynamax's install is compliant with "Regulatory agencies"
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Old 10-31-2020, 07:46 PM   #8
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I’m not sure about what UL and NFPA take on safety, but in terms of functionality I can only assume the tech from Aqua Hot is wrong and is not familiar with how Dynamax may have a work around for the exhaust tip they require. Aqua Hot wasn’t even willing to help beyond the exhaust tip . Maybe BC can Snead some insight in how they work with Aqua hot to eliminate the tip . Maybe a calibration change the Aqua Hot tech isn’t aware of .
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Old 11-01-2020, 12:39 AM   #9
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Another thing you may try,

The blower has an air vane on it that is adjustable. On mine I had to open the air a bit to almost "wide open". Any place else it would substitute for a light house fog horn. No kidding, you could hear it sound off on the opposite side of a large campground when it started up. Quite embarrassing at 3 am.
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Old 11-01-2020, 12:52 AM   #10
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Slightly off subject, but I am in the last days of deciding specs on a new Force HD, vs DX3. I have been pretty committed to the Force, a lot because I actually prefer the quick heat of the hot air LB furnace in the DX3 and XL. I also prefer LP stove. All electric seems like if there is electric issue, you are out of luck. With LP you can at least still cook or boil water for coffee. Granted, between shore power, generator, and inverter you'd probably still have some electric. But I get the feeling the Aqua Hot can be a bit temperamental. So, I am not 100% yet on how much weight to put on the Force, because I believe its the only one of the three that still uses LP heat, domestic HW and stove. Any words of wisdom is appreciated.
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Old 11-01-2020, 01:13 AM   #11
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Personally, I would go with the AquaHot.
I have the LP version. I think newer DX3's are diesel.

In regards to the reliability, I had a blower go out after 3 years. I have used the MH in -2* static temp and 20 - 30 mph winds. It was adequate to warm the MH. Not to comfy interior temps but adequate (mid 60's)

The nice thing about it is the heat is very nice. Not just a blast of hot air.
Most of the time I can run an electric only (for the AquaHot) and add the burner side for unlimited hot water. (unless you run out of propane or inlet water)
That is nice for a loooong hot shower. Sometimes it is just nice.

All electric:

I actually removed my LP range top and installed an induction 2 burner unit.
This removed all LP gas from the interior of the MH. I have LP for the AquaHot and BBQ connection only now.
The induction range only works while on shore power or generator power. Microwave is on the inverter.
This has worked great!

While boondocking, we tend to use the Blackstone on propane more than cooking inside the MH.

I think the Force uses a dual frig but I have not had any issues with the residential frig setup in a DX3.

Just some thoughts

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Old 11-01-2020, 01:16 AM   #12
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Oh one more point

Cooking on an induction range top is just like cooking on gas.

We have gas range at home and cooking on the induction is equally pleasant.
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Old 11-01-2020, 01:25 AM   #13
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Thanks Ken. The Force has the residential refer, as does my Isata-5. Works great. I do believe the the DX3 and XL have a diesel furnace. I don't know how comfortable I am with that. Have spent too many years in the NE with oil fired furnace services with burner problems. The LP furnaces ended all that. And its a lot cleaner. I have LP stove in one house and electric in another and they are both fine. The electric seems a bit hotter, quicker. Its more for the duality of options IF you had an electric power problem with the coach, at least you can boil some water for coffee. I have had forced hot air in my homes, and baseboard or hydronic hot water. I don't mind the blast of hot air. In fact like i said, its nice and quick when you first come in or on a cold morning. I guess I am more making my own argument. I'm really just looking for reliability issues from actual users of either. And that's what you have provided. Thanks again.
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Old 11-25-2020, 05:16 PM   #14
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After two years , dealer and mobile service visits , about a thousand dollars in charges for parts and labor , and multiple calls to Aqua hot , I finally spoke to a tech Monday and asked about the propane nozzle . I was told that they never had a problem with a nozzle and didnít think this was my problem ,but emailed me an explanation on procedure on accessing it ( not in any service manual) today I removed it from plenum and found a piece of Teflon tape in nozzle and another thread of tape hanging inside attached to elbow , obviously left from assembly at factory as this is the one area never touched . Not sure why they use Teflon tape and not paste , but there it was . Cleaned out reinstalled and fired right up perfectly. I am not sure why this propane nozzle is not in manual and not even in parts list , Aqua-Hot had to direct me on a part number but only cleaning and about 15 minutes was necessary. AH told me they donít even put cleaning and servicing of nozzle for propane units in manual. Wish they had .
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Old 11-25-2020, 05:19 PM   #15
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do the propane models also have the optical flame sensor ? it would be next to the nozzle and S/B cleaned also . on diesel they get pretty dirty
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Old 11-25-2020, 09:21 PM   #16
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Mppincince can you email me or post a link on hereto the procedure they sent you. I have had exactly the same problem with mine.
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Old Yesterday, 09:23 AM   #17
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I'm interested as well. Please post
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Old Yesterday, 12:27 PM   #18
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Unfortunately AH does not offer a direct link to servicing the propane nozzle as I explained, and they should , however the tech where to locate and how to access .
The propane nozzle is located behind flange attached to Plenum . To access remove four wires to solenoids on gas valve ( note their location for reinstallation ) . Turn gas off to unit , remove metal gas line into gas valve , remove two 7/16 nuts to flange . Remove assembly , you will find propane nozzle screwed into other side of flange . Note there is grease behind flange this is hat acts as sealant so donít remove . Unscrew nozzle and clean , reinstall . Reinstall flange and assembly .7/16 Nuts that hold flange to plenum are torqued to 65 in lb . Reinstall gas line , check for leaks . I am attaching pics of line you disconnect and assembly as well as flange you remove nuts to that propane nozzle is screwed to on other side . Hope this helps .
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Old Yesterday, 02:11 PM   #19
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Great info. Thanks. Haven't had a problem but nice to have this in a file.
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Old Yesterday, 02:24 PM   #20
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Teflon tape strikes again! There are so many bad things about using teflon tape in lieu of pipe dope where pipe dope is suitable for the application. This would be one of those applications.

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