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Old 06-27-2022, 03:02 PM   #1
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Cab over fiberglass separation from metal cab - how to fix?

My fiberglass over cab section is seperating from the metal cab, what’s the recommended fix for this? I was thinking drilling and add some bolts then silicone.

Brian, how is this repaired?

Thanks!

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Old 06-27-2022, 07:34 PM   #2
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we normally relieve any pressure there might be (wherever it is coming from), add some bolts and reseal. Sometimes they have forced it to spread even more, added some foam I think in there, then let it go back to normal, then sealed
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Old 06-27-2022, 07:56 PM   #3
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we normally relieve any pressure there might be (wherever it is coming from), add some bolts and reseal. Sometimes they have forced it to spread even more, added some foam I think in there, then let it go back to normal, then sealed


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BClemens, these are the photos of the basketball goal incident, does this look more serious than a patch
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:57 AM   #4
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Attachment 275587Attachment 275588Attachment 275589
BClemens, these are the photos of the basketball goal incident, does this look more serious than a patch
Kirby
I guess that depends on how much you want to invest.

There is an aluminum tube there, so that is likely dented. The bright side is it is right at the trim piece. You'll need to pull that trim off to even do the repair (plastic screw cover just pulls out, then you have access to screws).

Once you get the trim off, you can likely just throw some bondo in there, and some paint. Then the trim goes back over, so even if it is not 100% professional, most of it gets covered back up with a brand new trim piece.

Personally, I would likely handle that myself. If it were brand new and full body paint, different story.
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Old 06-28-2022, 08:46 AM   #5
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My fiberglass over cab section is seperating from the metal cab, what’s the recommended fix for this? I was thinking drilling and add some bolts then silicone.

Brian, how is this repaired?

Thanks!



—John

Don't use regular household silicone, it will fail in the weather, look horrible, and prevent new sealant from sticking.

Use something like proflex, sikaflex, lexel, even dicor non sagging. All are much better products. Somewhere on the forum is a diagram of what sealants dynamax used in in what areas on the rigs if you want to be sure to use the same as factory.
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Old 06-28-2022, 04:34 PM   #6
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we normally relieve any pressure there might be (wherever it is coming from), add some bolts and reseal. Sometimes they have forced it to spread even more, added some foam I think in there, then let it go back to normal, then sealed

Any ideas where the pressure might be coming from in my case? I was thinking it was cab settling?

Do I need to shim the cab up to meet the fiberglass?

—John
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Old 06-28-2022, 08:54 PM   #7
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Depends, we mostly see it when the front end is being lifted off the ground with the jacks. And then yes, the cab settles. It can be the back and forth, lifted, then set down, then lifted and that can work some screws loose that attaches the cap.
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Old 06-29-2022, 10:34 PM   #8
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Depends, we mostly see it when the front end is being lifted off the ground with the jacks. And then yes, the cab settles. It can be the back and forth, lifted, then set down, then lifted and that can work some screws loose that attaches the cap.

Yep, Defiantly a lot of twisting on the last trip. So I should be good just tightening up the screws? How do I get to them, from inside the overhead cabinet or do I need to remove the headliner?

—John
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Old 06-30-2022, 02:46 AM   #9
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Cab over fiberglass separation from metal cab - how to fix?

Removed the headliner and associated trim pieces along with the subframe that holds the cb. Not a hard job, took about 45 mins.

I see what happened. The stress and movement between the cab and cap caused the self drilling screws to be pulled on, they loosened and rounded the holes. Why weren’t some 5/16 bolts used here instead?

I would think no matter what there will be flex there between the metal cab and fiberglass cap, so why not just use some sort of rubber seal to allow for this movement? I know it’s a tough spot for a rubber seal to work but there’s got to be a better way to do that joint.

Now comes the quandary. Do I just remove the screws and bolt it down till the cap touches the cab? This would put a lot of stress on the cap I would think possibly causing a crack or other separation.

Or do I somehow shim up the cab to chassis mounts to raise the front of the cab 3/8” or so then bolt it down.

Advice needed!

—John
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Old 06-30-2022, 07:10 AM   #10
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We use bolts today. What model year do you have?
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:40 PM   #11
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Glad you use bolts now, mine just had the sheet metal screws.

Bolting it is no big deal i can easily do that in an hour, but im worried about using the bolts to pull down the cap to meet the cab, wont that create stress on the fiberglass cap?

--John
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Old 07-02-2022, 12:49 AM   #12
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I’m thinking of making a spacer, about 1/4” thick from polyethylene that goes between the cap and the cab to fill the gap. Then bolt through it. This would stabilize the connection from cap to cab and not stress the fiberglass cap.

I can’t see any other way to correct and not stress the cap except shimming the cab off the frame slightly which I didn’t want to get into.

Is this a good plan of action?

—John
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Old 07-02-2022, 06:23 PM   #13
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I’m thinking of making a spacer, about 1/4” thick from polyethylene that goes between the cap and the cab to fill the gap. Then bolt through it. This would stabilize the connection from cap to cab and not stress the fiberglass cap.

I can’t see any other way to correct and not stress the cap except shimming the cab off the frame slightly which I didn’t want to get into.

Is this a good plan of action?

—John
We have done that before.
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Old 07-02-2022, 08:53 PM   #14
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Yep, bolted it up today. After looking closely and bolting the cap to the cab, I realized the small gap was there even when fully bolted down. The silicone was ripped due to side to side motion, not up and down travel. Ordered some replacement marker lights so figured I would keep that area accessible until they come in. Then going to silicone it later in the week.

—John
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Old 07-02-2022, 10:12 PM   #15
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Then going to silicone it later in the week.

—John
Silicone? You'd be better off using an rv sealant. Most here seem to favor Dicor .
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:30 AM   #16
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John I also use silicone in that area, moves and stretches better. I use Dicor on the roof mainly.
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Old 07-03-2022, 10:33 AM   #17
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I also love dicor, but for that spot silicone will be better. As stated it will stretch better and will be tougher.

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Old 07-03-2022, 11:54 AM   #18
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I have used Proflex on a few RVs and found it sticks and stretches better than silicone.
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Old 07-03-2022, 12:00 PM   #19
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Old 07-04-2022, 01:38 PM   #20
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I LOVE dicor but in a front spacing place where air water and debris are focused it doesn’t work well. It’s so “soft” that the debris hit it and get embedded in it. Tried it before on my old class A. Normally dicor is the best choise on rvs but for front facing stuff you need somthing less “gooey”.

—John
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