Carefree Freestyle awning issues

[ronncda]

2014 Dynamax Dynaquest 300st with Carefree Freestyle WM 12v awning. The awning will not extend or retract using the switch. I can go directly to the motor, bypassing the switch and new control module and the motor will operate as required moving the awning in and out. Does anyone have experience with a possible short in the wire harness between the switch and motor, and if so, what and where was it and how was it fixed. Is there a fuse or relay some where; possibly shared with something else? . There is no remote. I have nothing marked indicating there is a fuse. I have been in contact with CoC on other occasions but with a usual 1 hr wait on the phone or 2-7 days wait via email, I thought I would ask here. Thanks in advance

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by ronncda

2014 Dynamax Dynaquest 300st with Carefree Freestyle WM 12v awning. The awning will not extend or retract using the switch. I can go directly to the motor, bypassing the switch and new control module and the motor will operate as required moving the awning in and out. Does anyone have experience with a possible short in the wire harness between the switch and motor, and if so, what and where was it and how was it fixed. Is there a fuse or relay some where; possibly shared with something else? . I have nothing marked indicating there is a fuse. I have been in contact with CoC on other occasions but with a usual 1 hr wait on the phone or 2-7 days wait via email, I thought I would ask here. Thanks in advance

Have you tried using the remote?

[ronncda]

This awning does not have a remote

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by ronncda

This awning does not have a remote

Ok sorry, I thought they all had remotes.

[ronncda]

It would make to much sense to have them all uniform. Thanks

[bclemens]

There is a step by step troubleshooting process in the back of the manual, have you tried that?

https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/d...ice-Manual.pdf

Test Switch Function
1. Test Power Switch
1.1. Disconnect wires from Power Switch.
1.2. Using a continuity tester place one lead on each terminal.
1.3. With the switch in the OFF position, circuit should be open.
1.4. With the switch in the ON position, circuit should be closed.
2. Test the Extend/Retract Switch
2.1. Using a continuity tester, place one lead on center pin. Place
the second lead on bottom pin. Put the switch in the center
position and measure the continuity. Circuit should be open.
2.2. Press the switch down (Extend). Circuit should be open.
2.3. Press the switch up (Retract). Circuit should be closed.
2.4. Move the second lead to the top pin. Put the switch in the
center position and measure. Circuit should be open.
2.5. Press the switch down (Extend). Circuit should be closed.
2.6. Press the switch up (Retract). Circuit should be open

[ronncda]

Thank you Brian for your timely response. Unfortunately, I've gone down the list from the service manual multiple times to no avail. This is very frustrating.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by ronncda

Thank you Brian for your timely response. Unfortunately, I've gone down the list from the service manual multiple times to no avail. This is very frustrating.

Yes, to no avail, but that likely means it needs a replacement part.

[ronncda]

Brian, considering I've already replaced the motor, control module and switch; everything except the wiring, I'm at a total loss as to what part needs replacing. Thanks again.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by ronncda

Brian, considering I've already replaced the motor, control module and switch; everything except the wiring, I'm at a total loss as to what part needs replacing. Thanks again.

lol...ah, sorry about that. Did not see that part. Let me see if service has seen this before.

As for the troubleshooting...what did you find? I assume there is power to the switch? Is there power to then to the control module?

I will say, we have installed a control module only for the new one to be bad too.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by ronncda

2014 Dynamax Dynaquest 300st with Carefree Freestyle WM 12v awning. The awning will not extend or retract using the switch. I can go directly to the motor, bypassing the switch and new control module and the motor will operate as required moving the awning in and out. Does anyone have experience with a possible short in the wire harness between the switch and motor, and if so, what and where was it and how was it fixed. Is there a fuse or relay some where; possibly shared with something else? . There is no remote. I have nothing marked indicating there is a fuse. I have been in contact with CoC on other occasions but with a usual 1 hr wait on the phone or 2-7 days wait via email, I thought I would ask here. Thanks in advance

Ronncda: You've checked the switches (good) and applied power via direct "jumper cables" to the motor. Have you tested that voltage is actually getting to the module when you press the switches? Have you tested that voltage is actually coming from the module when you press the switches.

You have the following segments of wire:
Battery to power switch (1)
Power switch (1) to module
Direction switch (2) to module
Module to motor

Testing for voltage at each end of each wire while someone holds the switches will isolate the open (not short, that blows fuses), circuit. Since you've tested the components, it's got to be in one of the wiring segments.

[ronncda]

Larry, thank you for your response. Unfortunately, we have checked every wire we can see or find. I keep telling myself that I'm overlooking the obvious but the more I screw around with this, the obvious becomes more out of sight.

[Phreak480]

Originally Posted by ronncda

Larry, thank you for your response. Unfortunately, we have checked every wire we can see or find. I keep telling myself that I'm overlooking the obvious but the more I screw around with this, the obvious becomes more out of sight.

checked them how? visually, or have you tested for voltage with a meter?

[ronncda]

Initially we did a visual on the wires as good as one can. That was followed by a test via a meter for both continuity and 12v. I'm certainly willing to listen to additional thoughts. I used to think I was 1/2 smart but this has proven me to be a dumb-ass. Thank you

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by ronncda

Initially we did a visual on the wires as good as one can. That was followed by a test via a meter for both continuity and 12v. I'm certainly willing to listen to additional thoughts. I used to think I was 1/2 smart but this has proven me to be a dumb-ass. Thank you

Let's get down to specifics.

(I don't have a circuit schematic for this--going on an educated guess.)

Get a long piece of wire and connect one end to a GOOD ground. Maybe even connect it directly to the battery negative terminal. Bring the other end to the power switch.

Measure voltage between the ground wire and each switch terminal when the switch is off and when it is on. One terminal should always read 12 volts. The other should only read 12 volts when the switch is on. Can you confirm this?

[dave1650]

Originally Posted by ronncda

Initially we did a visual on the wires as good as one can. That was followed by a test via a meter for both continuity and 12v. I'm certainly willing to listen to additional thoughts. I used to think I was 1/2 smart but this has proven me to be a dumb-ass. Thank you

Looking at the wiring diagram in the manual you should be able to isolate the problem. I notice there is an off/on switch at the panel that feeds 12vdc to the module through a red wire that has a spade connector. Do you have 12vdc on the module between the black and red wire measuring on the module side when the switch is on? If so measure where the switch connects to the module on the module side of the spade connector with someone pushing the switch. The diagram does not specify what signal the switch is connecting to the common but you should see a difference when switch is closed or open with volt meter. If you see a difference check the wires to the motor on the module side for voltage when pushing the switch. I say check on the module side to eliminate a corroded spade connector which there are many used. If you have no 12vdc coming from the on/off switch to module check the spade connectors on both sides of the wires including the ground/common. The same for the extend/retract switch. If you have voltage to the motor on the module side check the spade connectors on the wires to the motor. Spade connectors can corrode and loose connection.

[ronncda]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Let's get down to specifics.

(I don't have a circuit schematic for this--going on an educated guess.)

Get a long piece of wire and connect one end to a GOOD ground. Maybe even connect it directly to the battery negative terminal. Bring the other end to the power switch.

Measure voltage between the ground wire and each switch terminal when the switch is off and when it is on. One terminal should always read 12 volts. The other should only read 12 volts when the switch is on. Can you confirm this?

Larry, Yes it worked as described

[dave1650]

Originally Posted by ronncda

Yes it worked as described

Do you read 12 vdc on the module with the switch on? Try it with meter lead on a good ground and on the ground wire of the module. If it reads 12vdc on the module connections try the switch to extend/retract while reading the 12vdc and see if it stays. If it doesn't read 12vdc on module connections but does from a good ground you have a bad connection on the ground which most likely would be the spade connector. The same would be true if the 12vdc falls when extend/retract switch is tried. A bad connection will not carry current.

[ronncda]

Todays doings
1) Factory wiring continuity check again. Checked ok
2)Drill battery to module via jumper then existing wire to motor, extend, no retract
3)Drill battery to module using existing factory wiring BIG Spark!
4)Volt check existing awning red/black to module. No power
5)Drill battery power to switch via jumper then jumper to module. Existing wire from module to motor. Jumper from neg on drill battery to module. Everything worked; albeit, erratically
6) Power from drill battery to module via jumpers. No power out of module on red/black. Using yellow common with grey and black, both showed 12v but 0v when button pushed.
7) power from existing chassis ground and battery power to switch then out via jumpers to module. nothing worked
8) All wires checked again for continuity and found 1 bad connector. Replaced and checked ok
9 Checked original factory install. Total inop
10) I discovered a possible pinch point where harness enters end cap by motor. Have not pursued
11) CoC says there is a harness "sensor" on the left arm for a led connection. If there is, it's the tiniest connector I've never found

I'm not sure what I learned but I know it is happy hour for this goof ball

[ronncda]

Originally Posted by ronncda

2014 Dynamax Dynaquest 300st with Carefree Freestyle WM 12v awning. The awning will not extend or retract using the switch. I can go directly to the motor, bypassing the switch and new control module and the motor will operate as required moving the awning in and out. Does anyone have experience with a possible short in the wire harness between the switch and motor, and if so, what and where was it and how was it fixed. Is there a fuse or relay some where; possibly shared with something else? . There is no remote. I have nothing marked indicating there is a fuse. I have been in contact with CoC on other occasions but with a usual 1 hr wait on the phone or 2-7 days wait via email, I thought I would ask here. Thanks in advance

Well after taking the summer off from working on this very frustrating scenario, this is what I found.
Without boring you with the pages of checks that I performed, here is the gist.When the awning was installed on the coach, the wire harness was not routed through the correct designated hole in the inner end cap. W/o the correct routing, the 5 wires to/from the switch and control module were being pinched, eventually creating a very non-obvious break in the wires. My epiphany came to me late at night when I decided to re-read (for the 1000th time) the install instrux. It was then that I noticed the words "hole on the inner end cap". Upon checking, it was instantly recognized as the potential issue. In the end, I replaced the motor, switch and control module. I also made a new 5 wire harness from the module to motor, staggering wire connection upstream with the harness; just like was done at the factory. Voila! it works as was designed. To bad it wasn't done correctly at initial install. I feel like such a dumb-ass but this shows that sometimes it makes sense to walk away and come back when in fresh mind.
Moral? IF your Freestyle WM is not operating, check the harness as it passes thru the frame at the motor.