Converting isata 4 to lithium

Oldnapapartsguy · 07-12-2020, 10:02 AM

I want to thank all that have posted their experience with changing to lithium batteries. I finally got brave and tackled it. I was amazed at how easy it really was to accomplish. I think the hardest was converting the BCC to the Li-Bim225
The Progressive Dynamics Lithium conversion was super easy and took maybe 20 minutes. I decided to go with Lion Energy lithium batteries for a couple reasons. First they make a 105 ah battery in the group 24 size which gave some room to install the Victron Smart Shunt. (By the way these are available now in a limited number so if you want it better get it ordered) Just do a search, bought mine from Inverters-R-US. Second the Lion batteries come with a lifetime warranty and Costco had a deal, 2 for $1399. I have been running tests, including slide operation and I couldn't be happier. Slides work so much better with the increased voltage and with the coach plugged in the voltage stays around 14 volts while operating. I had a Go Power solar controller which already had the lithium setting so just had to change that and watch it work. Pulled out in the sun and the solar worked better than ever. I am so excited to get camping soon to try all this out. Heading to the Smoky Mountains at the end of the month.

**bclemens** · 07-12-2020, 06:22 PM

That is awesome! The higher voltage is definately a win-win. We say to run the engine to get the highest voltage (motors just run better), but with Lithium that seems to work just as well.

Oldnapapartsguy · 07-12-2020, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bclemens

That is awesome! The higher voltage is definately a win-win. We say to run the engine to get the highest voltage (motors just run better), but with Lithium that seems to work just as well.

Being plugged in or generator running works just as well as running the engine, never used to be that way. I always started the vehicle and waited till it hooked up through the BCC center. This makes it easy to pack up and move on. Thanks Brian for all your support. All the posts encouraged me to move forward. Any one wanting to make a big improvement, LITHIUM with the correct charger.

NearDenver · 07-12-2020, 09:23 PM

I'm adding the SmartShunt to a Isata 3. The battery connect posts on the shunt are 10mm (a bit bigger than 3/8") but the ends on the existing cables are 5/16". Easy to replace short cable from battery to shunt but I'm not sure yet how I'm going to connect to the existing cables.

mlmay12 · 07-12-2020, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldnapapartsguy

Being plugged in or generator running works just as well as running the engine, never used to be that way. I always started the vehicle and waited till it hooked up through the BCC center. This makes it easy to pack up and move on. Thanks Brian for all your support. All the posts encouraged me to move forward. Any one wanting to make a big improvement, LITHIUM with the correct charger.

Nice job, looks very clean. Just got back from Utah and it is really nice not to worry about having power. Mine seldom goes below 75% and I use lots of power. I exclusively boondock. My solar could work better, even with 400W of panels in full sun I only get about 10A. They are 4.5 years old so that may be why. I haven't worried about it as this tops my batteries off every morning. I have had my Lithium system for over 2 years now and couldn't be happier.

jneum525 · 07-12-2020, 11:54 PM

What was the weight savings in switching to the lithium batteries?

Oldnapapartsguy · 07-13-2020, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NearDenver

I'm adding the SmartShunt to a Isata 3. The battery connect posts on the shunt are 10mm (a bit bigger than 3/8") but the ends on the existing cables are 5/16". Easy to replace short cable from battery to shunt but I'm not sure yet how I'm going to connect to the existing cables.

Might see if the cable ends are heavy duty enough to enlarge. I have done this many times by using a round file to make it large enough. Another option is to call an auto parts store, they might have a crimper to replace the cable end. As you can see by my screen name I am partial to NAPA Auto parts 😂

Oldnapapartsguy · 07-13-2020, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlmay12

Nice job, looks very clean. Just got back from Utah and it is really nice not to worry about having power. Mine seldom goes below 75% and I use lots of power. I exclusively boondock. My solar could work better, even with 400W of panels in full sun I only get about 10A. They are 4.5 years old so that may be why. I haven't worried about it as this tops my batteries off every morning. I have had my Lithium system for over 2 years now and couldn't be happier.

Thank you!
Can’t wait to try this set up. I pulled mine out yesterday and the factory 200 watts of flexible panels were putting out just short of 11 amps. I did clean them with some headlight polish a couple months ago. What amazes me is how fast the lithium’s charge back to full.

Oldnapapartsguy · 07-13-2020, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jneum525

What was the weight savings in switching to the lithium batteries?

The Lion Energy lithium batteries only weigh 23# so I had a total savings of 92# after dragging the group 31 AGM deep cycles out. Not bad, can't hurt.

Riverbend · 07-13-2020, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jneum525

What was the weight savings in switching to the lithium batteries?

A BattleBorn 100aH battery weighs about 29 pounds. A typical AGM battery will be in the 75 pound range.

boogiejack75 · 07-13-2020, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NearDenver

I'm adding the SmartShunt to a Isata 3. The battery connect posts on the shunt are 10mm (a bit bigger than 3/8") but the ends on the existing cables are 5/16". Easy to replace short cable from battery to shunt but I'm not sure yet how I'm going to connect to the existing cables.

Check Amazon. They have cables with 5/16 on one end, 3/8 on the other. Buy a short one and shrink wrap the connection.

babock · 07-13-2020, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boogiejack75

Check Amazon. They have cables with 5/16 on one end, 3/8 on the other. Buy a short one and shrink wrap the connection.

Or just order the exact length and ends you need.

https://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-...cable-assembly

boogiejack75 · 07-13-2020, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babock

Or just order the exact length and ends you need.

https://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-...cable-assembly

That too!

TitanMike · 07-13-2020, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldnapapartsguy

Might see if the cable ends are heavy duty enough to enlarge. I have done this many times by using a round file to make it large enough. Another option is to call an auto parts store, they might have a crimper to replace the cable end. As you can see by my screen name I am partial to NAPA Auto parts 😂

Most are. Going from 5/16" to 10 mm only requires removing a little more than 1 mm of material total. That's 1 mm off the radius and 2 mm off diameter. Most cable terminals have more than enough "meat" to go one size larger.

On some connectors I been known to "clip" one end with a pair of diagonal cutters and open up the ID with a tapered punch much like a goldsmith would resize a ring (only no real need to fill in the gap). Install connector, top with a washer, and clamp tight with the nut.

NearDenver · 07-13-2020, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitanMike

On some connectors I been known to "clip" one end with a pair of diagonal cutters and open up the ID with a tapered punch much like a goldsmith would resize a ring (only no real need to fill in the gap). Install connector, top with a washer, and clamp tight with the nut.

I think this is my current plan.

Oldnapapartsguy · 07-14-2020, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Most are. Going from 5/16" to 10 mm only requires removing a little more than 1 mm of material total. That's 1 mm off the radius and 2 mm off diameter. Most cable terminals have more than enough "meat" to go one size larger.

On some connectors I been known to "clip" one end with a pair of diagonal cutters and open up the ID with a tapered punch much like a goldsmith would resize a ring (only no real need to fill in the gap). Install connector, top with a washer, and clamp tight with the nut.

WORKS!!

You may also like: