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Old 12-12-2019, 10:20 PM   #1
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Dry camping power management

Going to Glamis for the first time . Glamis doesn’t have any electric hookups.
I have a Dynaquest 320xl . I just replaced the 3 coach batteries. So I understand I run the inverter on the way out to keep the fridge running and keep things cold. When I get there I’ll be running off batteries and the generator. If all I’m running is the fridge , how long can I run off batteries ? How long do I need to run the generator to bring the batteries back up to full charge ?
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Old 12-13-2019, 06:06 AM   #2
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There are too many variables to answer this question.


My advice is install a SOC meter (state of charge) and do not let your battery go below 50% full.
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Old 12-13-2019, 06:48 AM   #3
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Ditto Fred.

Sort of depends on a lot of stuff!

Modern Rv’s can use a lot of power per day. Also depends on you a lot!

A quality meter is a good plan.

I would think with a residential fridge you would need to recharge daily.
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Old 12-13-2019, 08:33 AM   #4
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Can you confirm that your Foch does or does not have a soc meter ring already installed ? You should update your profile with info o. Your coach - what year? Some basic info will be needed to get appropriate feedback FYI
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Old 12-13-2019, 08:40 AM   #5
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Do you have RV or residential fridge?
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Old 12-13-2019, 09:02 AM   #6
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there's no definitive answer that anyone can give you on how 'long' your batteries can support your 120v residential fridge since there are just too many variables = you'll find out when you park off-grid and start the clock yourself.
The batteries are the power source, and the number, size, type, and amp hour ratings, as well as their general age and condition, will determine the 'time'. Also, the weather, the temps inside and out, the temperature setting within the fridge, the amount of 'stuff' you have in the fridge, etc., will all contribute to the amount of 'time' before you need other power sources.

Your rig probably has an AGS module, otherwise known as the Automatic Generator Starter, that can automatically start the gen and charge the batteries when needed.
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Old 12-13-2019, 02:02 PM   #7
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If you're serious about power management, you must hunker down and do some basic math. It's not difficult math, but this calculator will help you and give you confidence.
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html

There's one rule with the calculator: always use 12 volts. When boondocking, your ultimate power source is your 12 volt battery bank. After that, the watts or amps are what they are.

Next: know your battery bank. What do you have? Let's assume 4 x 6 volt Trojan 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series/parallel to make 12 volts.
Each battery will be rated around 225 amp hours at 6 volts. Two of these in series will be 225 amp hours at 12 volts. Chaining two 6 volts in series does NOT double the amp hours, it doubles the voltage.
Now add the second pair in parallel with the first pair, and you have 450 amp hours at 12 volts.
YOU GET TO USE ABOUT HALF. So your battery bank delivers 225 USABLE amp hours before requiring a recharge.

Now your loads.
Let's assume:
~ Fridge at 500 watts and 30% duty cycle (runs about 1/3 of the time)
That's 41.6 amps per hour x 24 hours x .3 (duty cycle) = 299.5 amp hours consumed per day. Suddenly that mondo battery bank ain't so much.
~ Now lets remember all the other loads: Furnace, Water Pump, Lights, Parasitic Loads from the CO detector, LED displays on entertainment systems, and, and, and. And let's not forget that the inverter feeding your fridge is not 100% efficient. Add in 5% loss for that inefficiency.
Gonna run the TV? Do the math.

Your fridge may not consume that much power. Great. But whatever it does consume...the watts or amps combined with how much it runs...demands a certain number of amp hours. And your battery bank delivers just so many usable amp hours.

One more run at it. Let's assume your fridge consumes 300 watts and only runs 20% of the time....a 20% duty cycle.
300 watts at 12 volts = 25 amps x 24 hours x .2 duty cycle = 120 amp hours out of the 225 usable in your battery bank. You're not sucking wind, but 100 amp hours ain't a lot to do all the other stuff. Hell, your furnace will use about 10 amps, and in cold weather might run 20% of the time. Your water pump uses about 8 amps every time you turn on the faucet. You get the picture.

Use the calculator and do the math.

Meanwhile, if this is a rare occurence (boondocking), prepare to listen to the drone of the generator for extended periods. If you plan to do this often, consider:

~ RV fridges run on propane for a reason. 2 x 5 gallon tanks of propane contain something like 100 times the energy of your 4x6 volt battery bank. Residential fridges are a poor match for boondocking.
~ Consider solar. A 4 x 100 watt solar panel array can produce 100 or more amp hours of charge per day in reasonably sunny conditions. (I have solar on my rig, and I can boondock essentially forever without using the generator except to power 120 volt appliances like my microwave briefly.
~ Use power frugally. Forget the TV, stereo, tons of lights.
~ Batteries suck as power storage devices. As I mentioned, 10 gallons of propane contain about 100 times the energy of 4 x 6 volt golf cart batteries.

When boondocking on 12 volts, there's no free lunch...no magical way to make a battery bank behave like the grid. It's a very different type of camping from RV parks, and to do it well, one must begin with a rig that's equipped for the job. A residential fridge is a really bad choice for boondocking...and a fabulous choice when you have shore power. But for the occasional venture into the boonies, bring plenty of gasoline to run your generator for hours on end and/or add LOTS of solar capacity on the roof.

Above all, don't abuse your batteries. If you drain them dead before recharging, you'll ruin them pretty quickly. Be pro-active and keep them charged. When you fire up the genny and plug in, your converter cooling fan will run during heavy charging. Once the fan goes off, they are not topped off - not by a long shot - but that is a good indicator that they are charged enough to get you through the night.

Use the genny to charge twice a day. First thing in the morning for 3 or 4 hours at least until the converter fan shuts off. Then again for about 3 or 4 hours in the evening (before quiet hours) so that the converter fan has been off for a while. If you want to watch TV, do it while the genny is running.
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Old 12-13-2019, 02:53 PM   #8
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It's difficult to answer your questions because you need to specify the type and the amp hour ratings of the "house" batteries, the watt & amp draw on the fridge and any other electrical components you will be using during the camping session. If you plan on doing this often, then long term you should consider purchasing a portable solar package of at least 200 watts that includes the built in charge controller to help keep your batteries topped off. This will not only extend your stay, but will lessen the amount of time you need to run the generator, which uses some type of fuel and adds to your expenses.
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Old 12-13-2019, 02:55 PM   #9
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I think I had someone just recently tell me that an induction cooktop was the best for Boondocking. That way if you run out of LP you can just fire up the inverter. lol

I feel like an induction cooktop is like a residential fridge...NOT conducive to boon docking. LP stove takes ZERO power and if you run out of LP, a fire pit takes the same amount of energy.
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Old 12-13-2019, 03:02 PM   #10
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Wow, JimMoore13 spent a lot of time with that response. Worth a thank you from just an observer.
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Old 12-21-2019, 07:33 PM   #11
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One real experience,
Ran the generator all day with ac on.
It cooled down enough to shut down the ac and generator at about 9:00 . Opened up all widows and vents with fans on about two clicks up from low. Had bed room and slide lights on from about 8:30 to 10:30
AGS started the generator at 4 AM

I530FW
AGS set at 11.9
Original 2 31 battery
Residential frig.
Two IPads plugged in and charging
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Old 12-21-2019, 07:55 PM   #12
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All I do is just let the AGS do its thing.
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