DX3 hitch modification

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by bclemens

We've talked about it here...we did raise it once already, adding new bolt holes on the hitch itself. I'll have to look at how high that raised it and possible just having our caps trimmed back farther to accommodate this.

The one thing that concerns me is the ears on the hitch. That hitch is a tested component and by modifying it, it would theoretically void the rating. Most of you are towing cars and trucks...the 20k is overkill. But I will ask the hitch mfg if that plate serves any real purpose. They might be able to get it tested with it cut down and then its a non-issue either way.

Brian, this is the Reese Super Titan hitch you guys are using. It comes in 2 versions, one that hangs 10" below the truck frame and one that hangs 14.5" below the truck frame. It may be you're using the 14.5" version and it would be simple to install the 10" version instead. Both versions are rated 3K tongue weight and 20K load weight.

This would greatly improve the rear ground clearance issue and folks can always use a drop tongue if needed. Thats easier than field modifying the hitch to raise it up. The field mod is essentially shortening it from the 14.5" version to the 10" version so I suspect it won't impact the weight rating in real life.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Scratch that. It looks like Curt makes the hitch/cross bar. If the pictures I just received are accurate, then the "ears" that are dropped off the frame are a MORryde "add" to accommodate the hitch. In that case, you should be able to raise the hitch no problem. In fact, by rising it, it should "in theory" reduce tongue weight if it puts the trailer even, or hitch slightly higher so that it puts more weight on the trailer axle.

I think you sent this at the same time I sent my response with the hitch picture. But I agree, you should be able to get the hitch closer to the rear cap or even into it a little bit and gain a significant improvement in rear ground clearance.

[bclemens]

We're running Curt right now. It is about 14" from the bottom of the frame to the top of the hitch. Having said that....if we were to go with the 10", it raises that hitch 4" and we would be cutting a LOT more than 3/4" off the cap.

There is about 1.5" from the top of the receive to the bottom of the cap. We would need to trim about 3" to be safe and then its not just the bottom...but the receiver itself comes up into the radius portion of the cap.

I see a trim line already however from the fiberglass shop that trims our parts...so it shouldn't cost a dime to change the trim lines (in theory). They just cut more. We'll need to do a little more research into hitch height however. And does that 4" create an additional problem that I will get scolded for. Around here I call it "The Domino Effect". The second we change something to respond to a complaint...the other 50% is upset because we changed.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by bclemens

We're running Curt right now. It is about 14" from the bottom of the frame to the top of the hitch. Having said that....if we were to go with the 10", it raises that hitch 4" and we would be cutting a LOT more than 3/4" off the cap.

There is about 1.5" from the top of the receive to the bottom of the cap. We would need to trim about 3" to be safe and then its not just the bottom...but the receiver itself comes up into the radius portion of the cap.

I see a trim line already however from the fiberglass shop that trims our parts...so it shouldn't cost a dime to change the trim lines (in theory). They just cut more. We'll need to do a little more research into hitch height however. And does that 4" create an additional problem that I will get scolded for. Around here I call it "The Domino Effect". The second we change something to respond to a complaint...the other 50% is upset because we changed.

Conduct a poll on the forum and see what folks say. IMHO what you are doing is improving ground clearance in the rear, I cant imagine folks complaining about that. Most will be able to accommodate this height change with no impact to their tow setups or worse case, use a tongue with a small drop in it. You will still gain the benefit of improved ground clearance, even more so when not towing with a drop tongue removed.

[halla]

Guess we can do hitch raising at the rally. Like barn raising

[steverkemp]

Brian, when I was there at the factory I was looking at the Curt setup with Joey. We were thinking that it may be possible to just flip the Curt hitch upside down and that would give me enough gain. Then just cut the ears down.

[bclemens]

The ears are part of their hitch however...I did confirm that. I thought it was part of MORryde...but then got a picture of the raw hitch and the side portions are theirs.

We used to use the Reese Titan...but they moved mfg to Mexico. As such, we could not get a steady supply for some reason. So we got Curt to build one just like it. I don't know if they also build the 10" version, or just the 14", but we are looking into it.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by steverkemp

Brian, when I was there at the factory I was looking at the Curt setup with Joey. We were thinking that it may be possible to just flip the Curt hitch upside down and that would give me enough gain. Then just cut the ears down.

You can do that but the hitch skid plate (where you attach your safety chains) would be on the top and it would expose your connector plug to getting crunched if you backed up and drug the tail in the dirt or rocks.

[sconnors11]

Originally Posted by bclemens

The one thing that concerns me is the ears on the hitch. That hitch is a tested component and by modifying it, it would theoretically void the rating. Most of you are towing cars and trucks...the 20k is overkill. But I will ask the hitch mfg if that plate serves any real purpose. They might be able to get it tested with it cut down and then its a non-issue either way.

I'm a mechanical engineer, I'll weigh in here... Moving the hitch closer to the frame rails (up) will cause less stress on the assembly. Reducing the length of the vertical braces limits the moment on the frame. This will favorably affect the response to both side to side and fore to aft stresses. This setup looks like it has plenty of strength as installed, so I'm predicting little noticeable affect from the modification, like adding suspenders to pants which held up just fine with a belt.

[bclemens]

I agree with that...unfortunately, I can't install nor will we warrant any modified hitch if there is an issue. Unlikely, again, as you say it should be stronger, but those are the rule. Something as simple as a black tank flush...there is a version on the market I can't install because it is not a list component. Even thought we know it is compliant.

[steverkemp]

Brian, are you open to sharing the engineering drawings of the hitch setup? Did Curt engineer it or did Dynamax?

[bclemens]

Curt engineered it.

[johnmbeard]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I agree with that...unfortunately, I can't install nor will we warrant any modified hitch if there is an issue. Unlikely, again, as you say it should be stronger, but those are the rule. Something as simple as a black tank flush...there is a version on the market I can't install because it is not a list component. Even thought we know it is compliant.

Well, I did the modification... and hopefully I will never have a hitch issue. The bottom line for me was the coach was not right for my use. I had two choices, spend $15,000.00 to renovate my driveway, or spend a few hours and under $100.00 to raise the hitch.

[bclemens]

I certainly have no issue with it. Just passing on the fine print. I too doubt there will ever be an issue with the hitch and frankly, if you can make the mod, most people would repair their own hitch too.

[Sunset beast]

I started my hitch modifications today/tonight and I have a Pullrite hitch on my 2016 DX3 I’m looking around 3+” I’ll gain.