DX3 LED Light bleed

[FOURWHL]

First off, while I don't condemn thread necromancy this whole can't even post on a thread that's over a year old rule is a bit restrictive. Seems a bit silly to create a new thread for the same problem that's already been discussed.

Now that I got that out of the way...

It seems its my turn to deal with the LED lights being on and dim while the switch is off.

Yesterday the light outside the bathroom was on, it promptly got cut off because there was no way we're going to be able to sleep with that one on. Now the bathroom light is on, which I'm kind of OK with as it makes for a decent night light without the full force when you're half asleep.

Time to start digging I guess....

Very weird to have it on two difference circuits one day after the other.

For reference I'm a 2016 DX3 with no multiplex, just the standard switches.

[bclemens]

When we have seen this, it seems to be a connector in the rear behind the cap...water in that connector? Which really I thought was supposed to be waterproof, but who knows. (at least on the last two)

[KRedburn]

I agree with BC.

You will need to check the connectors that put power/control to the involved circuit.

If you want prints to borrow, you need to walk over here and get the prints.
Or after I get off my duff I'll be over with the prints

tonight

[FOURWHL]

Accessible via underneath at the back cap or?

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

Accessible via underneath at the back cap or?

Those are the ones I have seen...I think Mark/Orange Crush had this on a light

[mookieblaylock]

I've got nothing to offer on the light issue, but I thought there was a 'check box' or something that gave you the option of bringing old threads back from the grave.

[FOURWHL]

Originally Posted by mookieblaylock

I've got nothing to offer on the light issue, but I thought there was a 'check box' or something that gave you the option of bringing old threads back from the grave.

I seem to recall an acknowledgement that this is probably a bad idea, maybe on one of my own threads. But this time when I tried to do it on somebody else's it just flat out said NO

Ken walked over with his contraband drawings and I think we've narrowed down the plugs. Now to find some more time (and motivation) to crawl around under there...

[Sunset beast]

I had posted the same situation in late June, “LED lights dimmed on when power was off” or something like that. I found the problem from Jason at performance RV told me what to look for, I think someone just post the similar issue on the Official Dynamax Owners group FB page.

[jtad]

So what did he tell you to look for?? lol Don't leave us hanging.

[FOURWHL]

Originally Posted by jtad

So what did he tell you to look for?? lol Don't leave us hanging.

Plugs 66, 66A or 66B are the target. Located at the rear cap.

[mnoland30]

I replaced the incandescent bulbs in my Jeep with LEDs. I found out that the circuit needs more resistance to work correctly. The LEDs would stay on dim. The solution was to put in a resistor, which negated the entire reason for putting in the LEDs.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

First off, while I don't condemn thread necromancy this whole can't even post on a thread that's over a year old rule is a bit restrictive. Seems a bit silly to create a new thread for the same problem that's already been discussed.

Now that I got that out of the way...

When a member attempts to post to a thread that hasn’t been updated in X days, site software presents that member a message that the thread has aged and gives the member the opportunity to acknowledge that fact by clicking that aforementioned box. Once the member checks that box, the member may post to that thread.
So if this occurs again (“But this time when I tried to do it on somebody else's it just flat out said NO”), take a screenshot and post it in Forum Admin sub-forum. I’ve never seen the software flat out say NO.

[FOURWHL]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

When a member attempts to post to a thread that hasn’t been updated in X days, site software presents that member a message that the thread has aged and gives the member the opportunity to acknowledge that fact by clicking that aforementioned box. Once the member checks that box, the member may post to that thread.
So if this occurs again (“But this time when I tried to do it on somebody else's it just flat out said NO”), take a screenshot and post it in Forum Admin sub-forum. I’ve never seen the software flat out say NO.

My bad. I just went back and tried to recreate and I think I simply missed the old thread warning in the 'quick reply' interface. Since I hit submit without acknowledging my resurrection thats probably why it told me NO

[FOURWHL]

Now the bathroom light is off and its moved onto the porch light. This is sort of entertaining.

[KRedburn]

Brian,

I am starting to wonder if you have a corroded ground. There are several grounding posts on the chassis.
You have been in some harsh environments (buried in snow).
It would be worth check those points and maybe cleaning them up and tighten.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

Brian,

I am starting to wonder if you have a corroded ground. There are several grounding posts on the chassis.
You have been in some harsh environments (buried in snow).
It would be worth check those points and maybe cleaning them up and tighten.

And buried deep in the salt water laced sand

[FOURWHL]

Forget the sand, the air itself was salt water laced!

I'm sort of at a loss as to how a bad ground would cause this behavior though. Wouldn't that interrupt the circuit, not complete it?

I can certainly see how water in the plug would do this. I'm just wondering if my water is migrating between pins lol. That's still the first place I'm going to check at least.

[FOURWHL]

The other alternative (which I dont want to even entertain yet) being my mouse friends in the ceiling took some of my wire insulation....

[KRedburn]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

Forget the sand, the air itself was salt water laced!

I'm sort of at a loss as to how a bad ground would cause this behavior though. Wouldn't that interrupt the circuit, not complete it?

I can certainly see how water in the plug would do this. I'm just wondering if my water is migrating between pins lol. That's still the first place I'm going to check at least.

A corroded ground may become not a true ground (sometimes referred to as a "high" ground. Current will seek ground for a completed circuit and may find it through the LED which is a diode that emits light.
(expressed in basic terms)

[FOURWHL]

It was the harness plug right behind the propane tank. Couldn't quite read the tag but there's a 66 on it