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Old 11-16-2020, 10:05 PM   #1
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Dx3 towing

Has anyone ever used a toad behind their DX3?
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Old 11-16-2020, 11:09 PM   #2
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When you say toad, I'm assuming flat towing with a vehicle. As far as towing, I either use an open trailer or enclosed trailer.
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Old 11-17-2020, 07:31 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Orangecrush View Post
When you say toad, I'm assuming flat towing with a vehicle. As far as towing, I either use an open trailer or enclosed trailer.
Orange crush, how long is your stacker trailer? What do you carry on it? We have the same DX3 as you do. We have a 28’ enclosed trailer on order, but now that we don’t have our Rubicon, we think a stacker might be better for what we want to carry. A Volvo XC40 and a CanAm x3 maverick 2 seater.

Thoughts?
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Old 11-17-2020, 09:12 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Ladytj1754 View Post
Orange crush, how long is your stacker trailer? What do you carry on it? We have the same DX3 as you do. We have a 28í enclosed trailer on order, but now that we donít have our Rubicon, we think a stacker might be better for what we want to carry. A Volvo XC40 and a CanAm x3 maverick 2 seater.

Thoughts?

Several thoughts...

1) My trailer is 25' with a 5' tongue. That's 41' for the RV and 30' for a trailer. At 70 feet, not only am I illegal in NC (I have it registered in TN for tax purposes... $2400.00 vs $58.00) but it becomes a PIA when finding sites if you want to keep them together. I honestly couldn't imagine an add'l 3'.

2) Mine is not a stacker. I wanted a stacker but they are at least a foot taller than the RV and for purely aesthetical reasons, I choose a trailer only the height of the RV.

3) I have a JKU and a 4 seater rzr. For me, it's one or the other... I wish I could take both but with my setup, that'll never happen.

4) With a 28' trailer and a car and a Can Am, that's probably the equivalent of just my trailer with just my Jeep. (Jeep on 40's with Dana 60's and an SRT V8) Point is, pulling my trailer up a steep or long hill SUCKS. I love my DX3 but it needs more power.

Mark
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Old 11-17-2020, 10:09 AM   #5
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I believe the OP is referring to a Trailer Toad:

TrailerToad.com
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Old 11-17-2020, 10:18 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Orangecrush View Post
Several thoughts...

1) My trailer is 25' with a 5' tongue. That's 41' for the RV and 30' for a trailer. At 70 feet, not only am I illegal in NC (I have it registered in TN for tax purposes... $2400.00 vs $58.00) but it becomes a PIA when finding sites if you want to keep them together. I honestly couldn't imagine an add'l 3'.

2) Mine is not a stacker. I wanted a stacker but they are at least a foot taller than the RV and for purely aesthetical reasons, I choose a trailer only the height of the RV.

3) I have a JKU and a 4 seater rzr. For me, it's one or the other... I wish I could take both but with my setup, that'll never happen.

4) With a 28' trailer and a car and a Can Am, that's probably the equivalent of just my trailer with just my Jeep. (Jeep on 40's with Dana 60's and an SRT V8) Point is, pulling my trailer up a steep or long hill SUCKS. I love my DX3 but it needs more power.

Mark
Thanks, Mark. Our XC40 is about 2 ft shorter than our JK was. So, overall we are about 25’ total nose to tail. Since we don’t travel east much, I think we should be OK. 39’ DX3, 28’ plus 5’ tongue makes us just about 72’ ��. Weight-wise, we should be OK, I think.

Sure would make more sense to go with a stacker!
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Old 11-17-2020, 10:46 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Orangecrush View Post
When you say toad, I'm assuming flat towing with a vehicle. As far as towing, I either use an open trailer or enclosed trailer.
Nice rig. Who painted the trailer to match? I am looking at a 30í right now. Total weight is 12500 with Jeep and tools. Though?
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Old 11-17-2020, 12:03 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by hines5000 View Post
Has anyone ever used a toad behind their DX3?
Guess I'm wondering why you need to use a toad with a DX3. With an allowable tongue weight of 3K, that should be more than enough for a max 20K trailer weight?
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Old 11-17-2020, 12:29 PM   #9
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Be VERY careful about tongue weight. I have seen far too many end up double and not think anything of it. On today's roads, you are going to break something.
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Old 11-17-2020, 02:16 PM   #10
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DX3 towing

Yes I was talking about a trailer toad not a car. My rig is a 2015 DX# with 32' trailer with triple axles. Had about 12,000 lbs total and 1800 lbs tongue wieght on last trip to South Carolina. Got my first body crack under the bunk house side. My hitch is the weigh safe with the scale built in so i know the tongue weight. My tongue is 5" long but sits really low when I make the trailer level. Just trying to stop the cracking and make sure the hitch does not drag anymore.
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Old 11-17-2020, 04:11 PM   #11
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Where is the crack? Is it on the bottom of the actual BH slide where it goes over the rollers, or is on the coach itself? You mind posting a pic?

I run pretty much the exact same setup - BH DX3, 32' enclosed triple axle trailer, with a 5' tongue. I weigh the tongue often before traveling, and, if I've got everything loaded correctly, I'm right at 2000lbs (the limit). I have not raised my factory hitch at all, and the trailer sits pretty much dead level at that height. I drag the bottom 2" ball occasionally, but it's not been a problem yet.

This topic comes up often. I know I'm at the limit, and I'm very much aware of how bad the conditions are on our highways. I'm starting to get nervous...especially after your comments about a body crack.
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Old 11-17-2020, 07:31 PM   #12
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Sorry I don't have a picture right now and my DX3 in winter storage. The crack is on the body not the side itself. It started at the lower front corner of the bunk side and goes down about 2 inches so far. There is another thread up here that discussed this cracking issue. That is why I was thinking about adding the trailer toad to take the load off the DX3. I thought it would also keep the hitch and trailer tongue from hitting when we have to go up or down steep driveways.
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Old 11-18-2020, 06:58 AM   #13
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That is one mod I had to do... I modified the hitch to move up a bit. It was minimal but keeps it from scraping so much.

Mark
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Old 11-18-2020, 07:01 AM   #14
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Nice rig. Who painted the trailer to match? I am looking at a 30í right now. Total weight is 12500 with Jeep and tools. Though?
The trailer is a wrap. I own a body shop and I painted my last enclosed trailer to match my Newmar. When I sold the Newmar, I was stuck with a painted trailer.

This time I had it wrapped so if I sold my DX3, I could easily sell a black trailer.

Not to mention as talented as I like to think I or my painters are, the paintjob on the DX3 is way out of my league. Lol.

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Old 11-18-2020, 10:15 AM   #15
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One more here with extensive towing. I tow a 12k lbs trailer, probably getting close to 50k miles at this point. I'm perfectly happy with the performance.

I run my tongue weight between 1000 and 1500. I also have the same fiberglass crack under the BH in the main wall. My understanding is there's a frame tie right at that point. I've hit some pretty hard whoops on the highway at 70 mph as well as tons of washboard roads. I can't say I'm terribly surprised. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-18-2020, 12:53 PM   #16
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One more here with extensive towing. I tow a 12k lbs trailer, probably getting close to 50k miles at this point. I'm perfectly happy with the performance.

I run my tongue weight between 1000 and 1500. I also have the same fiberglass crack under the BH in the main wall. My understanding is there's a frame tie right at that point. I've hit some pretty hard whoops on the highway at 70 mph as well as tons of washboard roads. I can't say I'm terribly surprised. Attachment 243257
Damn...that scares the hell out of me, yet you don't seem to be concerned at all. Is it because this is just a superficial crack in the fiberglass???
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Old 11-18-2020, 01:06 PM   #17
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Damn...that scares the hell out of me, yet you don't seem to be concerned at all. Is it because this is just a superficial crack in the fiberglass???
Yeah I'm guessing its from more flex than the fiberglass can take. Granted some of the strength comes from the composite wall, but really its the aluminum frame holding evening up.

I am trying to decide how to seal it for winter without making it look like complete dog ... leaning toward clear silicon. Water intrusion is really the only thing that scares me about it.
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Old 11-18-2020, 02:17 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by FOURWHL View Post
One more here with extensive towing. I tow a 12k lbs trailer, probably getting close to 50k miles at this point. I'm perfectly happy with the performance.

I run my tongue weight between 1000 and 1500. I also have the same fiberglass crack under the BH in the main wall. My understanding is there's a frame tie right at that point. I've hit some pretty hard whoops on the highway at 70 mph as well as tons of washboard roads. I can't say I'm terribly surprised. Attachment 243257
Just an opinion here,
That is a possible sign of a structural issue. It may be a frame tie point as you stated or could be something much worse. The fiberglass wall is not a structural support wall (the internal aluminum framework is). I would have it checked VERY closely.
Maybe Mr. C should chime in here. I would think he might have "deer in headlight look" regarding this.
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Old 11-18-2020, 02:25 PM   #19
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DX3 Towing

My crack is exactly the same as Fourwhl. I put a small hole at the end and then filled with clear silicon per one of the earlier threads. I just don't want to see more or cause any frame issues. That is why I was asking about using the trailer toad to take all the tongue weight off. I think it would also help keep the rear end from scraping since there is now another axle at the rear that keeps the frame up.
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Old 11-18-2020, 02:45 PM   #20
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Just an opinion here,
That is a possible sign of a structural issue. It may be a frame tie point as you stated or could be something much worse. The fiberglass wall is not a structural support wall (the internal aluminum framework is). I would have it checked VERY closely.
Maybe Mr. C should chime in here. I would think he might have "deer in headlight look" regarding this.
I've seen everything at least once, sometimes twice, so no deer in the headlights here.

I have seen that a few times and in all cases it has appeared to be tongue weight related. I have had guys argue up and down that they did not exceed tongue weight.

"I was well under my GCWR".
"OK, what about tongue weight?"
"tongue weight was fine, I'm not even close to a 20,000 lbs trailer"
"OK, so what was the tongue weight?"
"I just remember it was under the rated load"
I then find the CAT scale sticker and the tongue weight was over by 800-1,000 lbs.

I tell people all the time...just level with me on what you are doing. I think people are afraid if they tell the truth, I won't cover it. I need to know the truth, so I know the best way to fix it.

I'm not saying its abusive or that you don't know when you load, but loads shift and maybe the car in the trailer ends up a little further forward one time, or just the right angle and a bad road. (or maybe your trailer is failing, axles sagging, walls bowing in and we have no idea what loads are moving around

What we would do in those cases (same thing that many 5th wheels do from the start today on a bedroom slide in the goose neck) is to make a relief cut along the line, then we epoxy in a T-molding that is about 1" wide, paint that and you barely notice. But it will relieve that stress point if it is overloaded again. The other option if the coach is still under warranty, we would repair the glass, then make a vertical cut on both sides of the slide out...same trim to cover and paint. I've never seen that repair fail and I have never seen it get worse.
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